Tubeless for touring

[Pale Rider]

It can be hard to break the bead on a recently installed tubeless tyre, which you might need to do if you are forced into fitting a tube.

A heel or two with the wheel on a hard surface will usually do it.

Reseating one bead is usually fairly easy with a handpump, and certainly much easier than reseating both beads.

Set the wheel at an angle against a wall with the open bead towards you.

Apply pressure to the centre of the wheel which will push the tyre bead against the rim.

A handpump should then do the job.

 

[fritz katzenjammer]

I love tubeless. I love the mess when you have to change them. I love what a pain it can be to seat them without a compressor if everything isn’t in good shape. I love having to add sealant every 4 to 6 months because it’s continuously drying up. It’s just great!

Actually… I run tubes on my stuff and save hating it for when I’m working on other peoples stuff down at the shop.

We had one blow off the rim last week, completely painted the technician with “ Smurf blood”… especially his crotch. You should have heard the whining, for the rest of the shift. ( seriously, who holds a wheel in their lap while installing a goop filled tire? ) har, har…

 

[steveindenmark]

Tubes or tubeless is very similar to the helmet debate. If you use either one, you would sell your child to defend your point of view.

I use tubes. I use tubes because if it is pitch black, freezing cold and snowing. I can change a rear tube in 10 minutes and get going again.

I did try tubeless for a year and I think the system is fine when it works. But even when it works. It is not a lot different to tubes. If you choose the correct tyres for the place you are riding.

I found nomatter what I did the tubeless tyres would lose some air over a couple of days and would need to be pumped up. I don't have that problem with tubes.

The idea that tubeless saves weight, does not really work for me. If touring, you still need to carry tubes , sealant, patches and a pump. If you get a puncture, you have all the sealant to wipe out. That is providing you can get the tyre off the rim to start with.

I have tried both and I prefer tubes every time. But tubeless are the modern way to go.

 

[figbat]

Here’s another anecdote. A few weeks ago I was doing an MTB event. I was following a guy down an off-road descent and he picked up a puncture - there was a loud hiss and a sealant Catherine wheel. He kept going and within 6 or 7 revolutions it stopped.

At the next gate he held it open for me and I said “that’s some good sealant you have there”. He looked puzzled. He didn’t even realise he’d picked up a puncture until I told him.

 

[dimrub]

Here’s another anecdote. A few weeks ago I was doing an MTB event. I was following a guy down an off-road descent and he picked up a puncture - there was a loud hiss and a sealant Catherine wheel. He kept going and within 6 or 7 revolutions it stopped.

At the next gate he held it open for me and I said “that’s some good sealant you have there”. He looked puzzled. He didn’t even realise he’d picked up a puncture until I told him.

Happened to me too, several times - I only realized I had a puncture because my son, riding behind me, told me of that. I didn't even need to pump up the wheel.

 

[geocycle]

Happened to me too, several times - I only realized I had a puncture because my son, riding behind me, told me of that. I didn't even need to pump up the wheel.

Yes, it’s the noise against the mudguards that usually alert me. But that is only the start of the journey.

You hold your breath to see if it will seal, it does momentarily, then another revolution opens up the hole again. Finally, you get off to check, do the pinch test and all is good.p to complete the ride. When you get home you put the track pump on and realise it has reached equilibrium at 50 psi. You tentatively inflate to 60 and the seal breaks…. Now you face a dilemma is it time to deploy the worms or darts, or remove the tyre with all the hassle of the sealant and put a patch on the inside? You try the dart but it won’t go through the hole, so the tyre comes off, sealant down the sink and everything cleaned up. The patch goes on, tyre is remounted on rim and all is good for a few more rides.

This morning you come down to a flat tyre and after much cursing the tyre is relegated to tube use. I really want to like tubeless but it’s not easy at times.

 

[Sharky]

Putting the pros and cons of tubeless to one side, there seems to be a learning phase with tubeless tyres.

So a question for those on tubeless, how long did it take to get to the point where you had confidence in being able to tackle all the issues that you might encounter.

This could be a pertinent metric for the OP in planning his touring adventure.

 

[dimrub]

I'd measure it not in time, but in experiences. For me it was:

• 1 experience of getting a puncture that just fixed itself
• 1 experience of having to plug with a worm
• 1 experience of having to use the emergency tube (culprit: sealant wasn't renewed in time)
• 1 experience of filling up sealant.

That was enough for me, though it might have been a good idea to try and seat an unseated tire in the comfort of my home.

 

[T4tomo]

Yes, it’s the noise against the mudguards that usually alert me. But that is only the start of the journey.

You hold your breath to see if it will seal, it does momentarily, then another revolution opens up the hole again. Finally, you get off to check, do the pinch test and all is good.p to complete the ride. When you get home you put the track pump on and realise it has reached equilibrium at 50 psi. You tentatively inflate to 60 and the seal breaks…. Now you face a dilemma is it time to deploy the worms or darts, or remove the tyre with all the hassle of the sealant and put a patch on the inside? You try the dart but it won’t go through the hole, so the tyre comes off, sealant down the sink and everything cleaned up. The patch goes on, tyre is remounted on rim and all is good for a few more rides.

This morning you come down to a flat tyre and after much cursing the tyre is relegated to tube use. I really want to like tubeless but it’s not easy at times.

50psi seem quite a lot for a fat Mtb tyre

 

[Elybazza61]

Personally I stick with tubes up to 32/35c 700 tyres as they are usually harder to seat and sealant doesn't always work so well with the higher pressures.

650's are all tubeless; generally easier to set-up and more likely to seal and happier at lower pressures.

Mostly use Orange Seal and Tesa rim tape with Dynaplug kits to repair cuts and holes.

Recently put new Terravail Ramparts (650x47) on one bike and got a puncture after two days use that wouldn't seal; two plugs in the slit and topped up with sealant at the roadside and has held up since then.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

In real world touring experience of tubeless I got one that wouldn’t seal and I eventually had to fit a tube. I’d stick with tubes for touring. For day rides I’m 50/50 tubes / tubeless.

The advantage of tubeless in my view is faster rolling with relatively decent puncture protection. Great if doing an event where a bit more speed makes a difference. But for touring the faster rolling isn’t so important. Being able fix punctures on the road with relatively little faff is. Modern tyres, punctures are rare anyway, apart from lightweight jobbies you wouldn’t normally use touring.

 

[geocycle]

50psi seem quite a lot for a fat Mtb tyre

Yes, I think that’s partly why we get such different views. I run 28 mm which really need to be north of 50 psi. I could imagine that for wider tyres run at lower pressure tubeless would be ideal. I think the benefits are greater with wider set ups.

 

[dimrub]

Yes, I think that’s partly why we get such different views. I run 28 mm which really need to be north of 50 psi. I could imagine that for wider tyres run at lower pressure tubeless would be ideal. I think the benefits are greater with wider set ups.

Sounds reasonable. Mine are 42mm (gravel). I can pump them up to 65, but I rarely do (no sense in doing that with gravel, given the expectation of some off-road riding).

 

[Sallar55]

For touring tubeless is perfect for us, but we use 29er Vittoria Mezcals they are ideal as they roll well and can handle all types of surfaces. Would not tour on tubeless high pressure tyres , the sealant and repair plugs work better using a lower tyre pressure.

 

[alchurch]

I did lejog on tubeless . The tires do lose air faster than a traditional set up.A year later the wheels went into a pot hole, and one came out with a sidewall split. It sealed but not before most of the air escaped. I was able to ride home on very low pressure, something I probably would not have attempted on clinchers.