Don't forget that you are the one who said you had a great formula for calculating the best gear ratios tailored for an individual and then came out with a super wide ratio spread that covered all possible options, and was definately lower than was likely to be needed for a road bike, and also much higher than would be required.
Today it is easy, the ratios available are so wide that nobody should ever have a problem, 30 years ago things were a tad different, the starter road bike for most was a five speed with a 46, or 48 chainring and a 14 to 24 block, this gave a bottom gear of 54" (for the 48 ring), with steel wheels and heavy 27 x 1 1/4 tyres, I remember climbing hills around about 1 in 7 was very tough.
I have no doubt that a 34 / 50 double ring and 12 to 26 cassette would be fine for me in the peak district on a loaded up touring bike, some may want a bit lower, so they could always go for a triple ring.
25 years ago I went cycling in the Austrian Alps for a week, we drove down there and stayed in one place, so the biles were not loaded, I rode with 26, 40 chainrings and a 13 to 17 straight through five speed block, not the lightest bike, but narrow (ish) light (ish) 700c tyres, never a problem on any of the climbs, and some were very long, obviously the top gear was a lttle low, but on the descents you go much faster by not braking than you ever do by trying to pedal.
All this is just a bit off topic, what I was still wondering is how you expect to specifically tailor the gears to an individual, yet you do not consider the type of tyre or geometry of the bike, this was my original point.
