Upgrading to disk brakes

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bikehippy

New Member
Hi all

I'm thinking about getting disc brakes for my mountain bike (a Trek 6500) - been getting into off road biking lately and am getting through the V-brake pads pretty quickly.

I'm thinking of going hydraulic, but don't have a huge budget so am looking at relatively cheap options like Magura Julie or Avid Juicy 3. Does anybody have these (or similarly priced) brakes and have anything good or bad to say about them? I guess what I want to know is what to expect from cheaper disk brakes - are these good value, and what do the higher end brakes offer that these don't?

cheers
Helen
 

RedBike

New Member
Location
Beside the road
You wont have a problem with either of those brakes. You can often pick up a set of Hayes hfx-9 or Shimano Deore brakes (both of which are very good) for well under the 100 mark.
 

Mr Pig

New Member
I have Shimano M486 brakes on my bike and they are very good. Apart from being physically lighter I can't think of what more you would need from a brake. I've done very steep, prolonged descents on them with no fade at all. Covered the back of the fork in brake dust though ;0)

One other point is that many brakes use similar brake fluid to the stuff in cars, which is both corrosive and toxic. It'll take the paint off your bike. Shimano brakes use mineral oil which is relatively harmless and not corrosive. Makes sense to me.
 
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User482

Guest
The cheaper brakes are probably a little heavier and less well finished than more expensive ones, but will still be a huge improvement over v-brakes.

I had to borrow a Deore front disc brake recently, and was quite impressed.
 

02GF74

Über Member
shimano and magura use mineral oil, not car brake fluid.

any hydaulic disc brake wil be better than rim brakes. there is a big choice now - shomano, hayes, magura., formula, hope + other ....

check out ebay for used set.

bear in mind you need new wheels, or hubs at the very minium plus respoking depending on current wheel lacing = easier to get disc brake wheels; then also if your shifter/brakes are one unit, you need shifter units.

it isa worthwhile move.
 
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bikehippy

New Member
Thanks all. Fortunately I've got disk-ready hubs and separate brake levers... but it's useful to know about the mineral oil vs brake fluid thing. I'll have a look around at the brakes that have been mentioned here.
 

Mr Pig

New Member
You can get a set of Shimano or Avid Juicy3 for around £100 which is pretty good I think. I'd buy the Shimano simply because I know they're ok and they use mineral oil.

Oh, don't buy Shimano 485. I had those and had issues with them. The 486 look identical but they've obviously changed something as they work much better.
 

yashicamat

New Member
I have Avid Juicy 3's on my Rockhopper Comp and they're excellent. I've done some hard, long braking on some of the big downhills in the Peak District and they coped just fine. I imagine that the 5's are even better still . . .

I can understand the argument about toxicity, but as for taking the paint off, well I wouldn't worry too much, you're more likely to remove paint by crashing into something.
 

fuzzy290

Active Member
Location
Taunton
I have had a pair of Juicy 3's for over 18 months and I have only had to replace one pair of pads on the rear. They have worked faultlessly on my FS MTB and are now on my rigid MTB. As they were so good, I have put a pair of Juicy 7's on my FS MTB.

I have had to bleed the Juicy 7's, which is he only time you will normally come into contact with the brake fluid. As long as you use the Avid bleed kit and a few old rags you shouldn't have any problems. Only a few drops of the fluid might escape doing this.
 
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