Views on 'safe limits' of cold-setting... abandon project?

[drissa]

I've been hoping to build a bike with an Alfine 8 hub. I got this frame, expecting to be able to cold-set it. From my research, getting the Alfine 8 narrower (with alternative nuts) just seems too difficult. I'm stuck with the OLN measurement of 135mm. The frame is currently around 127mm - so an extra 8mm needed. I'm not sure if the 531*c* frame helps or hinders - it's certainly very light.

I'm hearing very conflicting views on cold-setting, from 'I've done it loads of times, go for it' to 'No way, too dangerous'. The latter is from my local bike store and wheel-builder, so if they won't support it, I'm pretty stuck.

I can try Sheldon's method or the threaded method, but I'd feel happier with more expert input. Am I likely to find another store who will do this? Should I be doing this at all? I don't mind risks during the build, but not afterwards on the road. I'm not into the fixie/SS thing and might have to settle on basic freewheel gears, but don't want to rule the Alfine route out just yet.

Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated.

Thanks, and apologies for what must be rather dull newbie queries/errors

 

[raleighnut]

I wouldn't cold-set a frame built with a 531c tubeset as they are very thin wall tubing far better to go for a basic freewheel set up.
Also 75 quid was a bargain for that frame and it would build into a great retro bike. Glad to hear its not gonna get fixied though.

 

[ianrauk]

There's a good thread on Cold Setting over at YACF HERE

 

[gbb]

I have a Raleigh Clubman 531, originally 126/127 OLN. The frame is light, stripped bare, its was ounces heavier than my alloy framed Bianchi..superb material
I fitted R500s, 9 speed, but im not sure what OLN they are, I assume 135.
Looking at that frame you see the brake bridge is tubular, similar to my Clubman. I thought this was the weak point (the brazings) and feared it may stress the joints as I opened the rear triangle. I used a heavy duty jubilee clip around that point to minimise the stress..or to force the stress to be at a lower point than the bridge.
It worked fine in my case, it turned into a well used winter commuter for 3 or 4 years and is still going strong now.
Theres a lot of talk regarding the rear mech hanger alignment when cold setting. I didnt have to touch mine, never had any issues with the gears whatsoever.
I used a rather basic method to open the rear triangle, laid the frame flat on grass, a length of timber through the stays and pull up, then flip and repeat. Very basic, I did wonder about frame misalignment and 'crabbing'...but no problems whatsoever.

 

[Crackle]

I had an old 531 frame which I never cold set, I just used to spring it to get the wider block in. I think I used a nut over the axle as a spacer against the dropout. I have no idea what sizes it was but then I had no idea about cold setting then, pre-internet. I toured with that bike. Probably not much help but illustrates you can get away with quite a lot.

 

[Supersedona]

A small amount of movement shouldn't be an issue, small amount...

 

[02GF74]

that is 4 mm per side - never done it myself but it does sound like an amount that would cause problems.

 

[gbb]

Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated.

Thanks, and apologies for what must be rather dull newbie queries/errors

No apologies needed and its not a dull newbie question. You have an idea, youre considering options, you're asking advise...perfectly sensible and welcome IMO.

 

[Ed no-more-lemons]

Nice frame.
Havn't got round to this myself yet but owned twins(not 531). the one I still own has an OLN of 120mm, the one I sold measured 127mm when I bought it and came with a five speed block that measured 135mm and so had to be spung in
Also used another wheel for a time of same width and seven sprockets and both wheels worked well.
I also have to spring in a 135mm hub on my current runaround as it should only accept a 6 speed block, but the seventh sprocked only has 12 teeth and so clears the chain stays without setting the frame.
My tuppence worth, relevant or not.
The threadded method with a braced bridge is something I will get around to at some stage.

 

[PpPete]

I've pushed a regular 531 double butted from 120 out to 135, not 531c though.

 

[drissa]

Thanks everyone for input. gbb - yes, I have some concerns about the brake bridge, because the paint has split along one joint. I've just applied some paint stripper to see if the crack runs any deeper. I measured the dropouts at around 127mm, which I assume might suggest a previous owner had sprung something wider in.

I had a go at flexing the frame apart by hand, without using much pressure. I can see almost 1mm difference just doing this. My new plan is to order a Nexus 8 from the US (the 'premium' version, which I gather is the same as the Alfine). This comes in at 132mm and with a narrower nut, I think I'll only be a couple of mm off. This seems reasonable, even without any cold-setting.

Just in case, can I buy an 'off the shelf' wheels with traditional freewheel set-up (I assume I need a 6 speed for this frame), or do I need to have something specially built?