Vintage barn find identification

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steveindenmark

Legendary Member
looks nice , why repaint ?

Because it is his bike and he is paying for it. We all have different tastes.
 
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Biscuit

Biscuit

Legendary Member
Those rear wing nuts are usually used like a modern day quick release as you didn't need any tools. I'm guessing you may even have a flip flop rear hub. It may have had a cyclo Benelux rear deralliuer or something similar. If that is a Williams crank you can get a date from the code.

Thanks for that Tony, I'll take a closer look at the cranks this week.

<Edit> This is a useful link cheers.

http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/components/williams_identification.html
 
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Biscuit

Biscuit

Legendary Member
very interesting..the handlebars maybe an inclination towards being a track bike,so forks won't be original,i'd have my doubts about the hubs too...if only it could talk.:okay:

Yes I believe the forks are not the originals, but defo the right size to match a 26" wheel. Those large fanges on the hubs must be a clue to the hub manufacturer. I'll have to measure the front and rear axle widths to help with identification.
 
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User42423

Guest
Hi,
I'm looking for any help with identifying and dating this barn find. Currently not sure whether to restore it or turn it into a polo bike tbh.
Wheel size is 26" x 1 1/4". There are three gears on a freewheel at the rear, and a single chainring up front. From what I can make out, changing gear revolved around loosening the wingnuts on the rear axle and manually flicking the chain to the required cog and re-tighten / tension. Can't see any provision for a rear mech of any sort.
There are no markings I can make out. Flipping the bike, the underside of the bottom bracket just has a simple stamp on the RHS, no numbers. Winged drop bars also deviod of any markings, and hubs too far gone to pick out any markings.
Any ideas on it's background? 26" seems a tad odd size. When did derailiers come in? Or maybe it's just been bastardised before I got it??

I've taken a few pics here..

https://flic.kr/s/aHskmqkYS9

Any thoughts are welcome. Cheers.


Hi. Just a few little pointers. Looking your images, the bike would probably date to between 1930s to 40s. I think the 4-speed block is a red herring!. During the 30s & 40s there were a few derailleur available: Cyclo & Constrictor to name a couple. I think the lamp bracket is an add on (poss; Vindec).
Are there any markings/stamping on the chain-set?. What is the frame number (R.H.S rear drop-out). The hubs look like 'cheap' models (the flanges are riveted to barrels).


I think this was built be a small time frame builder.
 
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Biscuit

Biscuit

Legendary Member

Hi. Just a few little pointers. Looking your images, the bike would probably date to between 1930s to 40s. I think the 4-speed block is a red herring!. During the 30s & 40s there were a few derailleur available: Cyclo & Constrictor to name a couple. I think the lamp bracket is an add on (poss; Vindec).
Are there any markings/stamping on the chain-set?. What is the frame number (R.H.S rear drop-out). The hubs look like 'cheap' models (the flanges are riveted to barrels).


I think this was built be a small time frame builder.

Hi, thanks for that. I'm home early this eve so will have some time to take a look at some of the above previous posting tips and feedback some info tomorrow.

Cheers
 
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Biscuit

Biscuit

Legendary Member
Ok so I've started removing bits to get a better view of things. I've updated the flickr pics here...

https://www.flickr.com/gp/sudburyswimmer/5nj91E

In essence I've discovered that the frame does have a number on the rear drop out. It's '80' ? Ideas anyone??

Drop out spacings and other measurements are ..

Rear 110mm
Front 100mm
Front chain ring 46T
Rear fixed cog 16T
Freewheel is 14/17/20T

Chain is 1/8th

Seat post wasn't stuck so came out pretty easy, and handle bars also out ok. As you can see from the headset, I'll be needing some new ball bearings, as the remainder have bounced all over the kitchen floor. I'll measure these and order new if the races are ok. I'll remove the headset cups later in the week and measure the internal ID. The weird clamp / top headset arrangement is all one piece of metal. But luckily the securing nut above it was finger tight and easy to get off.

I've taken the cotter pin nuts off, but the pins are jammed pretty hard, and don't want to f**k it up, so currently watching an American chap on you tube using a socket and a bench vice....


View: https://youtu.be/OQg89p6gcjk


I should be able to sort this later on in the week and finally get a closer look at the cranks. Previously someone has painted them with grey primer so can't see any markings at the moment.

Many thanks for all your comments and suggestions so far.

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Gravity Aided

Legendary Member
Location
Land of Lincoln
I've taken the cotter pin nuts off, but the pins are jammed pretty hard, and don't want to f**k it up, so currently watching an American chap on you tube using a socket and a bench vice....
RJ the Bike Guy. Man, that guy does a lot of stuff. He shows how to fix alot of bicycle parts you wouldn't ordinarily do, he races, and he fixes his old Honda.
 
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Biscuit

Biscuit

Legendary Member
After careful cleaning the cranks have finally given up the words 'UTILITY' and 'BRITISH MADE'. No sign of williams anywhere or the sword trade mark. I may have to clean the whole thing properly.

DSCF2337.jpg
 
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