What about this one? Also, gears and cadence and confusion

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LabRatt

Senior Member
Location
Sarf lundin
I'm still contemplating the new bike, so what if it's mainly window shopping at the moment?

After my previous "What bike?" thread and a little research of my own I've been thinking something in the Specialized Tricross range is what I want, but today my attention's been caught by another - the Fuji Cross 3.0 - there's no carbon on it which doesn't bother me much (in fact, there's presumably a good reason the 2012 Tricross has lost the carbon), it's a 105 rear dérailleur/cassette, supports mudguards and a rack, and generally looks pretty good. The question - is it? I'm a bit confused over the gears - the Evans page says it's got 20, and there are two chainwheels (36 and 46), but also says the cassette and chain are 9 speed. Wassupwithat?

Evans seems to be the cheapest for new, probably because of their current sale. Should I expect the price to drop much when they get the 2012 in stock? I won't go for the new model myself as I think it looks as if someone sneezed on the sketches, but I'd hope last year's model would be cheaper once the new one's out.

On to gears. I've been reading up now I'm heading towards more serious cycling, and it does look complicated. I think I've always approached gears as sequential, understandable as my first bike was a 3-gear sturmey hub and my getting-to-school bike only had five, but Sheldon's explaining all the crossover in ratios and so on. It looks like a lot to remember at first, though I'm sure it'd become second nature before long. It's cadence that's getting me though.

Sheldon tells me (I've been reading his stuff to that site since a friend referred to it) "Every cyclist has an ideal cadence, and an ideal amount of resistance from the pedals." Forgive my naivety, but is this something I need to take into account at this stage, or is it just something I'll learn on whatever bike I get? I know that until now I've probably been using too high a gear, and I hope adjusting won't be too difficult.

My suspicion is that this "idea" cadence should be about half to two thirds through the gear ratios so (on the Fuji thing) about 46/16 or 36/13. How does that sound?

Or am I just getting bogged down in something I don't need to worry about until I join the Olympic team?
 

chris-s

New Member
Location
Truro
You're getting yourself bogged down in too much technicality. Cross-over ratios, that will just come with experience, you'll get to know your bike, not something you need to constantly think about and your legs will tell you which gear to use, but generally it is better to use a lower gear spinning your legs faster than struggle with a higher gear.

The Fuji does seem to be low-geared. The large chainring on a typical road bike would be a '50' at least, I think you would find yourself 'spinning-out' on downhill sections and yes it does only have 18 gears, not that that's a problem.

Chris
 

g00se

Veteran
Location
Norwich
I would say that most people wouldn't both with cross-over ratios. Especially with a close ratio rear cassette. Just stick on the middle chain ring, then drop to the large or small rings when you hit the extreme ends of the cassette and want a few more cogs smaller or larger.
 

steve52

I'm back! Yippeee
steve's easy guide to gears
1 if it feels right stay in it
2 if its uncomfortable because your peaddeling to fast change up
3 if you start slowing the pedal rate (cadence) and its hard work change down
4 if by chance your in top and you spin out(cant keep up ) well done hang on crouch down and maybe shout Weeeeeeeee!
 
OP
OP
L

LabRatt

Senior Member
Location
Sarf lundin
You're getting yourself bogged down in too much technicality.
Hey, I'm a geek - the technicalities are what we live for.

The Fuji does seem to be low-geared...
I'd noticed that myself, though it does go down to 11 on the back. Looking at the front dérailleur changing up would be an option, but it'd probably make sense to go for a machine that wouldn't need it.

steve's easy guide to gears ...
Looks like the rules I'd worked out myself. From my previous riding, being in top on the flat "feels" right, but it doesn't give me anywhere to go if I'm heading downhill and means anything else leads to cadences I'm not used to. In essence, I'm trained for strength instead of stamina. Though I'm not trained, if you see what I mean...
 

byegad

Legendary Member
Location
NE England
Also it's relatively cheap to change the gearing on a bike. The front chainrings can be changed and so you can gear up or down.

My advice is to download something like Kinetics of Glasgow's K gear which will allow you to work out all the gears you will have, and AFTER you've ridden for a few hundred miles you can decide what, if anything you want to change.

I tinker with all my new rides to get the 'perfect' gearing. Not that any of them are perfect, but they are geared to my choice and I know what each of them lack, from that 'perfect' standard.
 

cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
46x11 gives you a top gear of 110 inches per rpm, plenty .

at 90 rpm thats 29.5 mph , assuming you can cycle that fast !

My bike has a 50x 11 and i do not think i have ever used it except down hill as i tend to spin a 50x17 or 50x 15 and thats gives me around 22 mph which is nice enough on the flat .
 
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