What Does "Tubeless Ready" Mean?

[SheilaH]

My main concern with the road bike is the snakebite puncture which I believe "going tubeless" negates.

Having said all that, my road bike tyres are so hard that they might as well be solids.

There are a few advantage of tubeless. One is being able to lower the pressure for greater traction and comfort without risk of pinch puntures. You also wont get blowouts. Also its nice not getting punctures in winter. Downsides, takes longer to set up than clinchers. You have to pump them up more frequently. You have to top up the sealant every few months (takes 15 minutes) There is a learning curve and it is not fit-and-forget maintenance free.

If you get a tyre with a large hole its going to be a pain regardless of whether it is tubeless or clincher.

 

[chriswoody]

Lots of good advice above, the one thing i would add is to consider buying a tubeless conversion kit if you do decide to go down the road of converting. Companies like Stans no tubes, offer kits that contain the valves, tape and sealant that you need to convert, saves you having to source everything individually.

I bought a kit from Effeto Maripossa called Caffelatex, which seems to get a lot of positive reviews from folk who run road bike tubeless. I've certainly had no stress in the year I've been running tubeless.

 

[SheilaH]

One thing I would suggest is to learn to fit and maintain the tyres yourself, rather than having a bikeshop do it because otherwise that learning will have to take place at the roadside

 

[Kajjal]

Being trapped in the past a quick question about tubeless, do you have to keep putting more solution in as it “dries out” and does this eventually mean you end up with a fairly solid wheel with a practically glued on tyre ?

 

[SheilaH]

Being trapped in the past a quick question about tubeless, do you have to keep putting more solution in as it “dries out” and does this eventually mean you end up with a fairly solid wheel with a practically glued on tyre ?

Yes and no.

The solution will eventually dry out, but it does take quite a long time (over a year in some cases). You do have to top it up because it thickens and dries, but also because you will get punctures* and so some of it will be used/spray out.

You won't end up with a solid tyre. What you will end up with is a millimeter or two of coating, but you can peel it off. You don't need to be too anal about it, just get the biggest lumps out. Also, if you ride a lot you will be changing the tyre well before it needs doing. *

* I forgot to say this earlier: one of the advantages of tubeless is that you can use lighter, more fun, tyres in winter and spring than normal because the punctures that you will get won't require a stop and change. I see little point in running tubeless if you use bomproof tyres like Marathons.

 

[Lovacott]

One thing I would suggest is to learn to fit and maintain the tyres yourself, rather than having a bikeshop do it because otherwise that learning will have to take place at the roadside

I've never taken any bike to a bike shop for repair. For me, 90% of riding a bike is done when you are not riding the bike. I'm not riding a bike right now, but in my thoughts, I am.

I get as much joy from learning how things work and fixing them, as I do actually using those things.

I also have trust issues when it comes to letting someone else muck about with something which could potentially kill me if they get it wrong.

I actually bought a torque wrench yesterday and checked every setting on the new bike which I haven't yet ridden.

I'm borderline OCD and I like to know everything about everything.

I'm a cross between Sheldon Cooper and David Beckham (minus the brains and looks).

 

[HLaB]

Why is tubeless better? Not something I would ever consider on my tourer but surely puncture means your buggered and can't just quickly switch an inner tube and be on your way.

I've toured on tubeless, you don't get any of those inconvenient p'tures and I carry a spare tube for that odd occasion when I will have to stop. Since these lockdown things I've been carrying the spare tube too but fortunately I have not had to use it 👍

 

[CXRAndy]

If you can get your tyres to inflate and pop onto your rim without an inner tube, then they could be used for running with sealant.

Ive only come across one tyre than would not pop onto rim for tubeless setup

 

[Big John]

I'm too old now to change so I'll stick to tubes. If I had an issue with punctures I might think differently. I don't buy expensive tyres with high puncture resistance (Zaffiros @ £5 a pop) and am happy with the status quo. However, never say never and it's always good to read about other tyre options.

 

[rogerzilla]

I'm put off tubeless by the potential misery of having to fix a puncture on the road. Slime tubes are bad enough for squirting gunge up your arm.

If you just want the lowest RR, a good wired-on tyre with a latex tube has the edge. You have to pump them for every ride, though.

 

[geocycle]

I’ve had tubeless on the Spa audax for the last 6 months. Good news is no punctures, but then I didn’t have any through the tyre punctures in the previous 18 months. More good news is that ride quality on Schwalbe one 28 mm run at 60 to 70 is better than the Duranos 25 mm at 90 psi. But there are too many variables to say if the tubeless set up is the cause of either of these positives. The Durano is a more solid and less pliable tyre. i also ride a couple of mph faster up hills, but this is probably also a function of the new wheels. So overall very happy but cannot say it’s down to the switch to tubeless.

 

[Lovacott]

"Tubeless ready" means that the rim is sealed and suitable for use with (some) tubeless tyres provided that sealant is used. "Tubeless compatible" means something different, but I'm not 100% sure what. I think it means that it's OK to use tubeless tyres, but you'll need to seal it yourself with rim tape first.

That's how I took it (simple).

The trouble with the Boardman handbook and website is that they offer up very little information about the £1000 bike you just bought.

Just a load of wishy washy generic rubbish.

 

[Lovacott]

I’ve had tubeless on the Spa audax for the last 6 months. Good news is no punctures, but then I didn’t have any through the tyre punctures in the previous 18 months.

Of course, if you a running thin tyres, you will encounter fewer sharp objects on the road. My MTB tyres cover a fairly wide bit of road when I'm sat on the bike so there is a greater chance that they will hit a sharp (bit of glass or a thorn).

 

[Tripster]

All as above. I'm a convert and run tubeless on my winter and summer bikes. My older bikes which are used far less are still tubed as I don't feel the investment on those is worthwhile.

Fitting? I have mine done at the LBS, a much simpler option than DIY.

The only issue I've encountered, and this is on both bikes, is the valves can gum up if not used regularly. I believe conventional wisdom is to store the bike with valves at the top of the wheel. I disagree with this as I think it has the potential for sealant to run down the tyre wall in to the valve.

My solution to this problem is to store with the valves at the bottom so the sealant drains away from the valve. I've noticed the problem is worse in winter and think this is due to using the bike less. In summer I ride 3/4 times a week. I check pressure before every ride meaning the valve is released and air blown in/out frequently. In winter while I try to ride three times a week weather can prevent this.

I'd recommend getting a plug kit and carrying it on rides in case you're unfortunate enough to suffer major damage to the tyre.

Lots of thorns on country lanes round me so running tubeless now on road bike or should I say opted for it from manufacturer. Always run tubeless on MTB. Which plug kit do you carry Paul ?

 

[weareHKR]

What're your thoughts on filling regular tubes with Sealant?
I don't have any tubeless-ready rims & have no intention of getting any unless I bought a new bike which will never happen!
I am however thinking of using a sealant in the current tubes. (Current Presta removable valves)