What Hub To Use? Need Help

[Rufus Chh]

Guys my brand-less rear hub is wearing off. Which brand and model of hub can I use without having to replace the spokes.
This is my wheel setup:
- 700x28C
- v-brakes
- 9 speed
- 135 o.l.d
- 24 holes
Thanks

 

[Paulus]

First of all, what is the problem with the hub?
Are the bearings a bit slack, they can be greased and reassembled.
Is the freehub making a noise or sticky.
Or do you want a named hub?
A little more information would be helpful.

 

[PedallingNowhereSlowly]

As above, you need to be a bit more specific about what the issue is. Is the wheel loose/wobbly? Is the hub grinding when the wheel is turned? Is the freehub not engaging or not disengaging, so you have problems freewheeling or pulling away? (freehubs can usually be replaced separately)

Hard to say from that picture, but that hub looks like it might accept cartidge bearings.

A new set of bearings and it will be as good as new. I've never actually had to replace a set of cartridge bearings, but I imagine some disassembly of the hub will be with required in order to find a stamped part number or careful measurement with a vernier gauge.

 

[EckyH]

Which brand and model of hub can I use without having to replace the spokes?

It depends.

You need to measure the diameter of the spoke hole circles on both flanges of the hub, the diameter of the spoke holes themselves, the distance between the center of the flanges and the outside of the nuts on the axle. Because most (online) spoke calculators expect the distance of the flanges from the center of the hub, you have to subtract the flange-outside-of-nuts-distance from 67.5mm. Then you need to find out which hubs come as close as possible to your measurements, of course including the number of spoke holes.
Without knowing these exact measurements unfortunately nobody is capable to give you a reliable answer.

With the ERD of your rim, the length of your spokes and the measurements of the hubs you found close to the measurements of your hub then you can calculate, which of the hubs might be close enough. Edd is good enough for me, didn't try others yet.
In my opinion roughly 0,5mm difference in spoke length should be acceptable. Please take my opinion as it is: an opinion.

With all that in mind I think the questions and suggestions of @Paulus and @PedallingNowhereSlowly should be the first choice.

E.

 

[fossyant]

24 spokes whoops....

 

[Big John]

Who will be rebuilding the wheel?

Edit: The hub in the photo looks a half decent piece of kit. Why swap it for something that might not be as good?
Edit 2: Is that bike new? There's not a speck of anything on it. It looks like it's just come out of the shop, new.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Guys my brand-less rear hub is wearing off. Which brand and model of hub can I use without having to replace the spokes.
This is my wheel setup:
- 700x28C
- v-brakes
- 9 speed
- 135 o.l.d
- 24 holes
Thanks

First, that wheel looks completely unused. What does "wearing off" mean? Has the make "worn off"?
The wheel is not a "700x28c". The tyre (?tire in the Woodlands Texas?) may be, though properly a 28-622. The rim will be (probably) 17-622.
Hub doesn't care.
Freehub best to be an 8-9-10sp though an 11sp can be used with a spacer.
OLD and spoke count same obv.
But to reuse the spokes (think they are J-bend at hub) you need to get a hub which, with the rim (make/model?), results in an ERD the same (left and right), as rehearsed above. This will require reverse engineering and careful measurement, given the current hub has no 'birth certificate'.
https://sheldonbrown.com/rim-sizing.html
and from Reja: https://bike.bikegremlin.com/9424/hub-measurement-wheelbuilding/

 

[Rufus Chh]

Hi guys. Thanks for your time. The hub doesn’t spin as smoothly as before when it was new. Perhaps it’s just a feeling. Very little grinding noise. Sometimes it gives off a squeaky sound after I’d sprayed water on it. I’ve stop that stupid habit anyway. It’s 6 months old and I did about 2500 km on it. I thought if I changed to a better hub (like the DT Swiss 350), I can save some effort pedalling. Perhaps go a little faster. The problem is cost. It’s too expensive for me and I can’t find an affordable Shimano hub that can fit.

 

[Ajax Bay]

You need to get right size (obv) genuine bearings eg SKF and replace. As effective, quicker and way less expensive.

 

[Big John]

For no cost, or at least very little, you can get that hub working smoothly. It all depends on how mechanically minded you are. I certainly wouldn't be thinking of getting another. If it's only six months old it's only got about another 40 years life left in it lol.

 

[Rufus Chh]

Thks guys. I think I’ll keep the hub. It’s still in working condition. I think I’ve been carried away by some website that say a good hub will make you go a lot faster and with much less effort put in. Anyway my bike is an old Trek FX1 modified with some basic road bike components. Too expensive a hub may not be compatible. Pls correct me if I am wrong.

 

[Paulus]

Thks guys. I think I’ll keep the hub. It’s still in working condition. I think I’ve been carried away by some website that say a good hub will make you go a lot faster and with much less effort put in. Anyway my bike is an old Trek FX1 modified with some basic road bike components. Too expensive a hub may not be compatible. Pls correct me if I am wrong.

You are not wrong.
Just clean out the bearings and hubs, re grease and re assemble. They will run perfectly well. Plenty of advice on how to do this task on YouTube if you need it.