What would be the best choice of rear rack?

orkneyblues

Well-Known Member
Location
Orkney.UK
Hi, I have read this forum with interest over the last few years that I have been cycling, as my username suggests, I live in Orkney, cycle and play the blues, although not at the same time.

I have purchased a new bike, a Giant Defy 2 through my local ctw scheme. I also ride a Dawes Galaxy tourer,fitted with quite a heavy duty rear rack, and depending on how much stuff I need to take with me to work, will decide what bike to use for my 8 mile each way commute, although I much prefer my new Giant as it is so much lighter and such a different ride to the Dawes.

I would like to fit a rear rack to my Giant Defy bike for light loads to avoid having to wear a bag on my back, and have narrowed the choice down to two racks from Wiggle. I would really appreciate any and all opinions as to suitability of either rack for this particular bike.

The two racks are:

TorTec Ultralite Rear Rack

TorTec Expedition Alloy Rear Rack

I actually prefer the Tortec Expedition as it seems more substantial and would prevent the panniers from getting caught up in the spokes of the wheel, but it is more than double the weight of the Ultralite, 900gms against 400gms, would this be a noticable difference in weight?
Would both racks fit my bike?

Thanks in advance to all members.

P. Cairns
 

Tim Bennet.

Entirely Average Member
Location
S of Kendal
You don't really notice 500 grms extra until you start to apply this reasoning to every bicycle decision.

The Ultralite rear rack will be fine and you never get panniers caught in the spokes of a wheel with any rack.

The Defy 2 would appear to have a rack mounting boss on the upper part of each seat stay, but you'll need to check or get advice from someone that has seen this bike.
 

macp

Veteran
Location
Cheshire
I have ordered a Specialized Secteur and gone for a Tortec Velocity rack because its narrow so hopefully will prevent my heels hitting the bags.They are also meant specifically for road bikes. I have also selected Altura Arran panniers.
 

Moodyman

Guru
Oh dear. All these weight weenies.

Unless you're racing, a few extra grammes make very little difference to a rolling bike. Both of your racks are good. I'd go for the one that is best quality v price.
 

Flanker37

Active Member
my personal rack of choice is the new Tortec Transalp & Supertour rear racks as they have a better light fitting attachment on the back. Plus with the transalp i use the lower rails alot
 

Crankarm

Legendary Member
Location
Nr Cambridge
Either of the racks you are considering will be fine. You'll not notice 500g when riding. Go for the one you like the best and which suits your budget. It could be a lot worse you could be looking at a Blackburn rack - nooooooo .... the welding is crap.
 
Moodyman said:
Oh dear. All these weight weenies.

Unless you're racing, a few extra grammes make very little difference to a rolling bike. Both of your racks are good. I'd go for the one that is best quality v price.

In other words - if you are going to be fitting a rack, then weight isn't THAT important anyway otherwise you wouldn't even be considering one!

Go for the Expedition. Just got back from town and came back with panniers stuffed fuller than anticipated (note to self: don't go to Decathlon on payday weekend!!) and I wouldn't have liked a rack without good side supports

THough the Transalp also looks good as above
 

hotmetal

Senior Member
Location
Near Windsor
I don't know anything about racks but I couldn't have thought 500g makes much difference compared to what you're going to be putting in the panniers that will be slung over it. I'd go for one that doesn't cost a fortune and won't break.
 

battered

Guru
500g is neither here nor there. Having said that, the heavier rack looks massively over engineered. What do you want it for? If you aren't shipping machine parts then the lighter one will work.

I have a light one and I've shipped all manner of junk back from the supermarket. Sometimes I wonder how I manage to keep the font wheel on the deck as I grind up the hill in granny gear.

Choose the one you like but you really don't need something that looks like the Forth Bridge unless you ant to transport, er, the Forth Bridge.
 
OP
orkneyblues

orkneyblues

Well-Known Member
Location
Orkney.UK
Darn it!!

Thanks for replies folks, after consideration I plumbed for the ultralight rack and was delighted to recieve delivery from Wiggle after only 2 days from ordering, remember, I live in Orkney! that is some good service.
However, the downside is that I managed to strip the thread on one of the lugs on the seatstays :tongue: :thumbsup:
I have used a cable tie to hold it on quite firmly in the meantime. Is their a better solution? can I re-tap the thread, I believe it is an M5, could I run an m6 tap through it?
 

battered

Guru
You can't just run an M6 through it, no. You have to drill it first to whatever the tapping drill size is for M6. You can *then* do it if there is enough meat in the boss to carry the thread.

Alternatively I'd fit a through bolt with a securing nut if you can. If not, and I've had this (I suspect the threads on one of the seat stays were a bit duff from the outset), you can clean it up with an M5 and fit a stud with Loctite, then secure the component with a Nyloc nut and washer.

You can get it Helicoiled for a true solution, it's fairly cheap.
 

Crankarm

Legendary Member
Location
Nr Cambridge
As already stated drill out carefully with an M5 metal drill bit then fit a normal M5 bolt with nut and spring washer on t'other end or use a Nyloc nut if there is space. Only drill out to M6 if there is enough metal surrounding to do this otherwise you will end up with the eyelet splitting. Use grease/copper slip on the bolt nut threads. Use a stainless steel bolt and nut, ideally a cap head allen key head bolt which you can easily use a multi-tool to tighten or loosen.
 
OP
orkneyblues

orkneyblues

Well-Known Member
Location
Orkney.UK
Crankarm said:
As already stated drill out carefully with an M5 metal drill bit then fit a normal M5 bolt with nut and spring washer on t'other end or use a Nyloc nut if there is space. Only drill out to M6 if there is enough metal surrounding to do this otherwise you will end up with the eyelet splitting. Use grease/copper slip on the bolt nut threads. Use a stainless steel bolt and nut, ideally a cap head allen key head bolt which you can easily use a multi-tool to tighten or loosen.
Am I picking this up correctly, are you saying to drill right through the seat stay lug with a 5mm drill, the bike is a Giant defy 2 alu frame, wouldn't this weaken the seat stay somewhat?
 
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