What's the best way to refit a hub-geared rear wheel?

[Chris S]

There are two problems:
1) Making sure the chain is taut;
2) Making sure the wheel is centered.

I make sure the chain is correctly seated and then pull the wheel back as far as it will go.
Tightening the wheel nut will pivot the axle. If the drive side moves forward then the chain can become slack again. So I then do both wheel nuts up finger tight before alternatively tightening each one one turn with a spanner.

This works OK so long as both wheel nuts need to be tightened the same number of turns. If they don't it's a case of loosening and tightening them again.

Does anybody have a better way?

PS My bike doesn't have horizontal drop-outs with the slot at the back so it's not possible to fit chain tugs.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

You are a prime candidate for a chain tensioner. That way you can centre your wheel without too much concern for chain tightness and then once that is sorted, adjust the chain tension.

 

[raleighnut]

I've always nipped up the drive side first with correct tension on the chain then centered the wheel, checked the chain again and then fully tightened both nuts.

 

[Ian H]

On the fixed I 'walk' the wheel back by tightening the left side, pushing the rim towards the right-hand chainstay, tighten the right, loosen the left, centre the wheel and tighten everything. Repeat if necessary.

 

[Tim Hall]

On the fixed I 'walk' the wheel back by tightening the left side, pushing the rim towards the right-hand chainstay, tighten the right, loosen the left, centre the wheel and tighten everything. Repeat if necessary.

This. Judging whether it's centred or not can be helped by use of a Mk1 calibrated index finger inserted between tyre and chain stay.

 

[Chris S]

It sounds like I'm more or less doing it the same way as other people already, loosening and tightening nuts seems a bit fiddly though.
I suppose it's the only way unless I'm going to fit a chain-tensioner, I'd rather not do that as it would ruin the look of the bike.

 

[Tim Hall]

Some bikes have a small tapped hole in the back of the dropout into which you can screw an adjustable stop. Slam the wheel back against the stop and then do the nuts up. As the chain wears, tweak the adjusters to compensate.

While not a complete answer, it sorts part of it.

 

[Milkfloat]

If you are really hip you use one of these:

http://www.designboom.com/design/spin-king-chain-genie-tension-tool-01-18-2016/

Personally I use my hand, or walk the wheel back.

 

[Tim Hall]

If you are really hip you use one of these:

http://www.designboom.com/design/spin-king-chain-genie-tension-tool-01-18-2016/

View attachment 344502

Personally I use my hand, or walk the wheel back.

You forgot to add "and have more money than sense". Fifteen notes for a wooden wedge? Goodness me (or similar phrases).