Wheel Lacing Tips

[Andy in Germany]

I've mentioned elsewhere that I'm learning to lace a wheel, with mixed success. After trying to work from the instructions I was given and not getting very far, I found this method:



This works, but I hit a couple of problems: I should lace the wheel so any logo or makers name on the hub is visible through the valve hole on the rim, which this method doesn't achieve. Also, I should lace it so that I have "parallel" spokes on each side of the valve hole, and the crossed spokes close to the hub. The method above doesn't do this: In theory I can work out where to "offset" the lacing so it works, but that didn't work very well today. To be fair this was possibly because I was distracted by customers.

I'll try again tomorrow, but does anyone have any lacing methods that will help achieve this?

 

[JonBuoy]

Roger Musson has that covered: https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php

 

[lenfield]

Sheldon Brown's method leaves the valve hole between parallel spokes. I've actually used this.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

 

[Andy in Germany]

Unfortunately the page keeps saying "payment failed" thanks for the link though.

 

[Andy in Germany]

Sheldon Brown's method leaves the valve hole between parallel spokes. I've actually used this.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

Five minutes in, and I already understand a lot more: thanks...

 

[Ajax Bay]

The 'parallel spokes' either side of the valve drilling is close to a must have. If you compromise, it will p1ss you off every time you attach a pump. Being able to read the hub make through the valve drilling is neat but zero consequence if not.
I recently built and finished trueing a rear wheel before realising the eyeletted spoke hole drillings were asymmetric and I'd got them the wrong way round. I have resisted relacing from scratch but it's going to annoy me till I succumb.
Sheldon was my early 'go to' with his colour coded spokes.
If a 36 spoke wheel, choose your opportunity to make sure you have time for at least 9 spokes without interruption.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Mark the rim spoke hole with some tape. Place first spoke to left of the tape, with it hooked through the side of the hub nearest you. Then on same hub side, place a spoke every second hole, and every fourth rim hole, that is total 9 spokes on 36 hole rim. Do same other side, starting with hub spoke hole just to left of first spoke hole As you look at it From side you laced first. Then rotate rim relative to hub. Should give you the parallel spokes either side of spoke hole. If it does not, rotate in other direction.

Then start adding the crossing spokes. Then repeat other side.

It is worth just repeating each part of the lacing stages whilst learning or been a while since you built a wheel.

 

[wafter]

I used that exact video when I did the wheels on the Routier with good results (hub indexed to valve hole, spokes correct relative to valve) although it was that long ago I can't remember how this was achieved.. I do remember there were a few gaps; perhaps back then my brain was sufficiently capable to fill them in..

 

[KuroSan]

Personally I've never lined up a logo on a hub with the valve opening simply because it would be dependant on that logo being printed in the right place and I'm willing to bet in many cases it isn't, although I haven't built a wheel up for a very long time and maybe that's changed by now, I'll find out soon enough as I'll have to lace up a pair sometime in the near future!

 

[FrankCrank]

This is a very in depth tutorial

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEv9IqMvUnQ&t=9s


Only build a wheel up maybe once a year now, and use this one sheet memory jogger for 36h 3 cross