Which Bike advice

[BrumJim]

Just found this forum whilst looking for a new bike, and you seem like a friendly, like-minded bunch of people.

Anyway, I'm a high speed, dry weather, commuting cyclist. Driving to work takes 20-40 minutes depending on traffic, and cycling takes 25-35 minutes, depending on wind conditions, hence cycling gives me exercise without spending any extra time out of my day.

So, I now have a Peugeot racing bike, with old fashioned steel frame and 12 gears. Mechanicals were cannibalized from my even older racing bike that almost suffered a complete frame collapse (ask me about it if you want to see the pictures). It was a good week this week - cycled in 5 days out of 5, but what I really want is a lighter, faster, smoother, faster, better gear changing, faster, less tetchy and maintenance intensive (adjusting gears, sorting out loose saddle, changing spokes) set of wheels. Oh, and did I say faster?

I have the cash, but am tight, so don't want to spend money on a competition bike, only to use it for commuting.

So, I spent yesterday visiting bike shops in Birmingham, and have come up with two choices:
Dawes Giro 300 or Specialized Allez 16

Any thoughts? Any questions?

 

[garrilla]

(ask me about it if you want to see the pictures).

Its obligatory to post 'em if you have 'em.

So you want a red bike? I'm a big Dawes fan but from your choices it really either or, I would say the price difference offers no greater value for money except for the part-carbon fork on the Spesh, which may make commuting a little more comfortable.

 

[BrumJim]

OK, and the third and final option is the Giant Defy 4

Specialized? Giant? Dawes?

 

[XmisterIS]

My advice is to get a bike with two wheels ... (count 'em just to make sure ... one ... two). And handlebars so you can turn. Yep, that's the very bike for you!

 

[MacB]

OK, and the third and final option is the Giant Defy 4

Specialized? Giant? Dawes?

At the price bracket your looking I prefer the Giant, if you went further up the price spectrum I'd prefer a Specialized. If you went really high up then either. If it's a commuter then do you have thoughts around mudguards or racks?

 

[BrumJim]

Spending about £500. Although I am commuting, I drive when it is wet and when I have a lot to carry, so can get away without mudguards and racks when I decide to cycle. I'm just trying to reduce wind resistance for those days when I have a howling south-westerly gale in my face all the way home. Which seems to be quite often.

 

[MacB]

Spending about £500. Although I am commuting, I drive when it is wet and when I have a lot to carry, so can get away without mudguards and racks when I decide to cycle. I'm just trying to reduce wind resistance for those days when I have a howling south-westerly gale in my face all the way home. Which seems to be quite often.

Character building Jim I'm probably not experienced enough to advise well. I've gone the 'bombproof' commuter route as I want reliability and also to get fitter and lose weight. Mine weighs in at 36lbs unladen, but it doesn't half make my weekend fun rides seem easy on my lighter bike.

 

[Randochap]

Without commenting here on specific makes/models, here's some opinions on commuting bikes.

 

[HJ]

...I'm just trying to reduce wind resistance for those days when I have a howling south-westerly gale in my face all the way home. Which seems to be quite often.

Tu'h a wee bit of resistance training never did anyone harm, what doesn't kill will you make you stronger...

 

[ed_o_brain]

What is it about your existing bike that makes you slow?

I think about the bike I've been riding on today, it would probably make yours look sophisticated.

At this sort of price bracket, you might be disappointed. I wouldn't think that you will necessarily be that much quicker. Unless you are riding steel rims that generally offer that a poor braking surface, especially in the wet.

Old road bikes make good commute bikes. The wider chains don't wear out so easily. Friction shifters are more forgiving of crud and are easily/cheaply fixed. Alloy rims and dual pivot brakes sort out the stopping power.

If it's not broken, don't fix it?

 

[BrumJim]

Existing bike is a Peugeot with a steel frame (can't remember the spec). It has friction down-tube shifters with badly worn dérailleurs that make gear changing a hit-and-miss affair, sometimes missing the rear block completely. The brake levers need to be either seriously adjusted or replaced, as they are not always very reachable. Spokes keep snapping. Handlebar tape needs doing again, and the seat keeps rotating round as well as up and down, even though the seat stem is firmly clamped in the down tube.

So, I could spend lots of money on a new chainset, chain, rear block and derailleur mechanism, sort out the brake levers, upgrade the pedals to clipless design, get a new seat and true the wheels properly, but I would be spending a lot of money and only be tarting up a steel frame that still has lots of niggly faults on the moving bits.

Also part of the problem is that I have hit a motivational brick wall on speed, so I am partly hoping that seeing a shiny, well-built bike will keep those pedals turning hard all the way to work, and not just when I can see a cyclist ahead of me.

I hit dilemma time yesterday, when I considered giving up driving to work almost completely, and therefore needing something a bit more rain-friendly, but I think I might get a cheap second-hand hybrid later, if I decide to make that choice.