Which oil do you use on your nipples?

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Davidc

Guru
Location
Somerset UK
When building or truing wheels I've always used a light machine oil on the spoke nipples. It came out of a bottle used for that and a couple other things.

The bottle doesn't have a label and I have no idea what it was - it just worked. There's none left.

Roger Musson says about using oil, but he doesn't appear to say what sort.

Anyone got any idea what the correct stuff is, or is a squirt of WD40 or 3 in 1 good enough?

Thanks. I have a rim to replace!
 
Baby :becool:
 
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Davidc

Davidc

Guru
Location
Somerset UK
My wheelbuilder uses boiled linseed oil. Aids tensioning and then dries hardish.
Interesting idea. Roger Musson says there's no need to fix the spokes, but provided the nipple can still be moved then can't be bad.

IAs I said, not sure what the stuff I've used is, but it was just a light oil. I aim for as near as I can equal tensions by plucked frequency (I go for 500Hz on the non drive side & front - seems to work), and after a few thousand miles they usually don't shift with just the oil.
 

Spoked Wheels

Legendary Member
Location
Bournemouth
Interesting idea. Roger Musson says there's no need to fix the spokes, but provided the nipple can still be moved then can't be bad.

IAs I said, not sure what the stuff I've used is, but it was just a light oil. I aim for as near as I can equal tensions by plucked frequency (I go for 500Hz on the non drive side & front - seems to work), and after a few thousand miles they usually don't shift with just the oil.

That proves that you don't need "boiled linseed oil"

Plucking the spokes is an excellent method to equalise the tension. Correct tension and balanced tension is the key, but I will also add, removing any spoke twist that you might have introduced while bringing up the tension.
 
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Davidc

Davidc

Guru
Location
Somerset UK
That proves that you don't need "boiled linseed oil"

Plucking the spokes is an excellent method to equalise the tension. Correct tension and balanced tension is the key, but I will also add, removing any spoke twist that you might have introduced while bringing up the tension.
Yeah - all correct, but what's the oil to use on the thread at the nipple, 'cos that's what stops the rotation of the spokes? It also makes setting up/ truing the wheel easy!

I'm hoping to have Monday free to do this wheel, and if there's no better suggestion from here I'll probably use a squirt of 3 in 1!
 

Spoked Wheels

Legendary Member
Location
Bournemouth
Yeah - all correct, but what's the oil to use on the thread at the nipple, 'cos that's what stops the rotation of the spokes? It also makes setting up/ truing the wheel easy!

I'm hoping to have Monday free to do this wheel, and if there's no better suggestion from here I'll probably use a squirt of 3 in 1!

Roger Musson uses light motor oil and that is what I use.
 
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Davidc

Davidc

Guru
Location
Somerset UK
Roger Musson uses light motor oil and that is what I use.
Didn't spot that. Could use the Halfords stuff I keep for topping up my car. Won't evaporate fast and should work.
 

GrumpyGregry

Here for rides.
I have used extra virgin olive, synthetic four stroke, 3-in-1 and the red stuff Finnegans sell as chain lube. Oh yeah and Green Oil as well. And their grease.

All the wheels are fine so far.
 
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Davidc

Davidc

Guru
Location
Somerset UK
I have used extra virgin olive, synthetic four stroke, 3-in-1 and the red stuff Finnegans sell as chain lube. Oh yeah and Green Oil as well. And their grease.

All the wheels are fine so far.
I'm getting the idea that it's just something greasy needed and I'm being too fussy.
Thanks
 
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