MossCommuter
Guru
- Location
- Salford
A while back I'd let my chain wear so badly that I had to replace the cassette and chain rings too. Lesson learned, I kept my eye on the chain and the next time replaced it at 0.75% wear (according to my chain wear tool) but found that I needed a new cassette as well.
So this weekend I changed the chain at 0.5% wear but again the new chain is slipping over the smallest sprocket on the cassette, so again, I need a new cassette.
I'd be better off if I let the chains and cassettes wear out completely if I am changing both chain and cassette each time.
Am I missing the trick here? Why can't I make a cassette last through 3 or 4 chains, even when I change the chain at 0.5% wear?
So this weekend I changed the chain at 0.5% wear but again the new chain is slipping over the smallest sprocket on the cassette, so again, I need a new cassette.
I'd be better off if I let the chains and cassettes wear out completely if I am changing both chain and cassette each time.
Am I missing the trick here? Why can't I make a cassette last through 3 or 4 chains, even when I change the chain at 0.5% wear?
SRAM & Shimano cassettes on other bikes I've only ever got 1 chain to 1 cassette so I've subsequently run them to snapping point.
I average 80 on hilly rides in the Peaks (and I'm a out of the saddle climber - so big gear) but on the flat, average is about 90, even with a 53 chain ring. 80-100 rpm is the most efficient !