Why can't I get comfy ?

[Elmer Fudd]

This is starting to drive me mad !! Why do I permanently fall forwards on my saddle on my Hybrid ? I took basic measurements off my old bike to do the initial set up but I always have to take an allen key out with me to tweak the saddle which I would guess is now at about a 5° angle.
I've raised/lowered/raised the bars (adjustable angle stem) swivelled the bars but still I feel I'm sliding forwards, actually I am, I end up taking most of upper body weight on my arms. Thing is the bars are now about level with the saddle nose whereas on my old bike they were about 2" lower and I never really had any discomfort, unless of course I did, but as I only used it for a 3 mile commute I never really noticed.
Anybody got a good site link that isn't for road bike fit ?

 

[Gerry Attrick]

I had this problem on my hybrid. I read somewhere it can be caused by having the bars too high in relation to the saddle. I lowered the bars (I have an adjustable stem) and problem solved.

 

[fossyant]

Is your saddle angled up 5 degrees - normally I'd say level - what about the seat set back - mine are pushed as far back as possible ?

 

[Elmer Fudd]

Yea fossy, nose is "up". On old bike it felt like body position was pushing my rather delectable (according to Mrs. Fudd !!) derriere backwards into the saddle. Fore / Aft could well be the problem although I've done the old "string from knee at 3 o'clock", admittedly alone.

(String from knee at 3 o'clock ?? I'll be joining a masonic lodge next. Up The Buffs !!)

 

[Crackle]

Here's my suggestions.

Check first that when sitting on the saddle with your foot at 9 o clock (i.e pedal forward) that your knee goes roughly through your pedal if you dropped a plumbline. If so saddle position is right, If not move the saddle forward or backward to get it right.

If you're still reaching after that try lowering the saddle a few mm. If it's too high you'll tend to move forward on it to compensate for stretching your toes down.

If after all that you're still going forward a shorter stem may be the answer. If I put my elbow against the saddle my fingers reach to the bars (just). Any further away and I am too stretched.

 

[Jacomus-rides-Gen]

Simple answer - your reach to the bars is too long.

Solutions include, straight through seatpost, bringing saddle forward on the rails, shortening stem.

All those things will make the handling sharper and twitchier.

 

[Dave5N]

Post some pictures - maybe we can then see how you are positioned.

 

[Dave5N]

Simple answer - your reach to the bars is too long.

Solutions include, straight through seatpost, bringing saddle forward on the rails, shortening stem.

All those things will make the handling sharper and twitchier.

Better still, ask someone. Are you in a club or do you ride regularly with experienced cyclists who could help you out?

 

[bonj2]

It's possible the friction of your saddle is too low.
You haven't accidentally sprayed some teflon on it have you? If so, give it a good clean off. Otherwise, if it's like that anyway, then just mix 1 part threadloc to 4 parts water, and boil it down in a pan until it attains the consistency of a smooth paste, then spread it over the saddle. Then see how you fare with that.

 

[02GF74]

It's possible the friction of your saddle is too low.
You haven't accidentally sprayed some teflon on it have you? If so, give it a good clean off. Otherwise, if it's like that anyway, then just mix 1 part threadloc to 4 parts water, and boil it down in a pan until it attains the consistency of a smooth paste, then spread it over the saddle. Then see how you fare with that.

many a true word said in jest.

yes, the surface of the saddle makes a difference - I have found sliding to be a problem also when whearing waterporrf trusers as they have a lower coefficient of firction i.e. more slippery for the non technical chappies and chappesses.

 

[Tynan]

not an expert at all but it sounds like something very fundamentally wrong if he can;t stay in the saddle without sliding off

a 5 degree angle can't be right surely?

 

[e-rider]

The reach is probably longer than your old bike. Move saddle forward and/or shorten the handlebar stem.

Get the saddle flat - use a level if neccesary

Make sure the handlebars are not really high or really low - I'm sure you've looked at that already.

Make sure the saddle is at the correct height - a simple test would involve sitting on the saddle and putting your heel in the pedal with the pedal at the lowest possible position - your leg should be very close to completely straight - this is just a rough test!

Make sure that the saddle isn't too far back or too far forward.

 

[Elmer Fudd]

Saddle has been dropped c. 5mm for a start as I am literally right on tippy toe when stopped plus levelled saddle out and knocked it forward about 5mm (marked with masking tape). Todays pootle was only to sainscos and back so not really a good test. Yes saddle is quite slippy, other (old) saddle was also wider, more a "comfort" jobby as opposed to "racey".

 

[Fab Foodie]

All you need to know...

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm

 

[Elmer Fudd]

Stand up straight in front of a mirror and turn to the side. Look at yourself in the mirror. When standing straight your head, hands, seat and feet are all fairly close to being in line with each other. Now bend over at the waist. Notice that not only has your head moved to a position ahead of your feet, but your rear end has moved behind your feet. If this were not the case, you would fall forward. Your seat moves back when you bend at the waist to keep you in balance.

All I can see is fat belly sticking out !!