Why torques screws on Campag?

[Milzy]

I see the record front rim brakes have an Allen key head but use a Torques bolt for the rear single pivot rim brake.
Why can’t they just keep them all the same?
Where can you get spare torques nuts for the rear in case they start rounding off?

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Those are aluminium nuts and they quickly round off if they are hex. Torx is bettere in that material.

 

[Milzy]

Those are aluminium nuts and they quickly round off if they are hex. Torx is bettere in that material.

Yeah I can see the torx is wanting to round off though. I will swap before it gets too bad.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Where can you get spare torques nuts for the rear in case they start rounding off?

Wouldn't you be better off getting a replacement nut in sensible material, with a hex key bonus? The bolt dia and thread pitch is surely 'standard'.

 

[Milzy]

Wouldn't you be better off getting a replacement nut in sensible material, with a hex key bonus? The bolt dia and thread pitch is surely 'standard'.

Good idea that!!! The search is on.

 

[Wheelspinner]

Those brake stud nuts are often specific to the model of bike frame and fork you're fitting them on. The manufacturer supplies a generic length like that in the pic - (front and rear are very often different lengths too) but it's not uncommon to need a longer sleeve version than the "standard" for your front fork fitment. I've a bunch of them in various lengths in the parts box - anywhere from about 10 mm up to over 20mm. They are sometimes subtly different diameters with the raised lip section at the head which can be a problem fitting them in the fork hole.

It's important to get the *right* one for your fork mount, so you have sufficient thread engagement on the stud, and can still correctly tighten the brake calliper to the fork.

Any half decent LBS will have loads of them in all the various permutations. Cheap as chips, or should be. I've got alloy, chromed steel, stainless steel, hex head, Torx head, etc etc.

 

[Vapin' Joe]

Those brake stud nuts are often specific to the model of bike frame and fork you're fitting them on. The manufacturer supplies a generic length like that in the pic - (front and rear are very often different lengths too) but it's not uncommon to need a longer sleeve version than the "standard" for your front fork fitment. I've a bunch of them in various lengths in the parts box - anywhere from about 10 mm up to over 20mm. They are sometimes subtly different diameters with the raised lip section at the head which can be a problem fitting them in the fork hole.

And a righty pain if you find out when building up a new frame after shop closing time on the Saturday of a bank holiday weekend - and DAMHIKT