Winter bike query

[graham bowers]

I've been road biking for about 5 weeks now on a used but immaculate Ultegra equipped Trek alpha 2.5 that has only ever been ridden in the summer when my ex-pat brother came back to the UK. Its on 23mm gatorskins by the way. I don't think I can bring myself to take it out on dirty salty roads so am thinking of what to ride in the winter.

I have an old rigid steel Univega MTB with 1.35 inch Schwalbe Kojaks on that I use as a knock about bike. I am thinking of using it as a winter bike so went out on it yesterday for one of my 30 Km road routes to compare it with the Trek. I was a couple of mph slower and it felt like hard work compared to the road bike. If I was riding by myself it wouldn't matter too much but I've started with a local group and am in the "slow" group anyway - averaging 13 mph over 50 miles. (I expect to improve on that as I fitten up and lose a couple of the 15 stones I'm dragging around).

So, I'm thinking of possible plan B's for a winter bike. One option could be to go for a 531 framed machine of 1980's vintage, say up to £200, but I've got no idea how such a machine would ride. It would be disappointing if I got one and it was no better than my mtb, for example - although I wouldn't buy without a test ride. But in the spirit of being prepared here comes my piece of string question.

Where in the speed spectrum between my Trek and slicked up MTB would a 1980's 531 steel road bike be likely to fall please?

Graham

 

[Citius]

The frame isn't the issue - the issue will be everything else that is attached to it. A steel frame will ride every bit as well as any other frame.

 

[Milkfloat]

Very vaguely speaking. With Trek at 10 and the MTB at 1, I would put a well maintained 1980's steelie at 7 or 8. But as Citius says, it depends on what and how well maintained the new bike is. Shove some cyclocross tyres on, a rubbing mudguard or two and badly setup drivetrain and you could bring it much much closer to the MTB.

 

[arch684]

In the winter i ride a raleigh steel bike from the 80s and yes it's a bit of a struggle on the steeper hills but that is because of the 42/52 chain rings and the 5 speed freewheel.On the flat or down hill it's as fast as any other bike i have

 

[mjr]

Is it best to rinse salt off steel bikes after every winter ride?

But I agree with @Citius - the frame will be fast enough and the speed will be decided more by what parts are on it. I don't really understand the point of having two road bikes when you're just doing it for fun, but then I don't really understand how 13mph average over 50 miles is "slow" either I'm no racer.

 

[Venod]

A bit more than £200 but I thought this waa a bargain for a winter bike.

http://www.wheelbase.co.uk/cannonda...m_medium=SepCS&utm_campaign=CannondaleSynapse

 

[Drago]

Use it, keep it clean, and make sure any bling bits are sprayed with ZX54 prior to riding.

 

[graham bowers]

Thanks for the replies, my original question has been answered. The comments about the effect components have on performance makes sense.

I've ridden motorcycles right through the winter and the salt can really cause significant deterioration, but I suppose with with suitable care that can be mitigated, and perhaps a bicycle is not so susceptible? Not sure. No exhausts or engine to rot I suppose.

I'm not hung up on speed, but if the group rides at 13mph I'd rather keep up than have them slow down for me on an mtb.
Also the Trek won't take full mudguards and to fit a front raceblade is going to require me to make custom stays.

Anyway, I'll agonise a bit more over which way to jump.

 

[raleighnut]

A good 531 frame with 105 (or above) kit on it will still be as fast but fitting mudguards, rack and lights will slow it down a bit uphill as will 'winter' tyres.
You may well become a Steelie convert though after riding a good un.

 

[Drago]

Decent quality bicycles seem much less susceptible to corrosion, partly cos they're better finished and partly because there's no heat to act as a catalyst.

 

[Ajay]

Are you sure the 2.5 won't take mudguards?
It has the eyelets!

 

[graham bowers]

I have old motorbikes going back to the 50's and 60's so an old bicycle is in keeping and if I had not been lucky enough to have been gifted the Trek, I would probably have bought a new or nearly new steel audax machine.

The brake front clearance is very tight. With a 23mm tyre the radial clearance to the fork crown is 6mm and the lateral clearance to the fork legs is 4mm per side. My LBS recommended raceblades and they need to be modified to fit - as in making new custom stays. I accept that eyelets are incorporated but I have read on t'internet that they are useless as clearance is not sufficient, and my own observations bear that out - but if anybody has any evidence to the contrary I would be more than pleased to hear it.

 

[jay clock]

I am shortly selling a Trek 2.1 which has proper full length mudguards fitted. 105 kit. Get in touch if it might be of interest

 

[Dogtrousers]

@biggs682 may have something nice for you in his herd of steelies

 

[biggs682]

@biggs682 may have something nice for you in his herd of steelies

@graham bowers what size frame are you looking at ?

down tube or sti levers ?

i always have a couple of retro bikes for sale in the 150 upwards price range

where are you based if local ish feel free to pop in and have a ride or two no pressure

thanks @Dogtrousers