Winter Tyres?!
- Thread starter Smiler100
- Start date
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upsidedown
Waiting for the great leap forward
- Location
- The middle bit
For the last two winters I used conti sport contacts which were brilliant even in the snow with care. I'm currently running bontrager racelite hardcases which are much quicker but have given me a few moments on wet drain covers. I plan on going back to the contis this weekend.
JoysOfSight
Active Member
As slick as possible, to get as much rubber on the ground as you can.
Other than that, I'm not sure there is specific winter rubber. I've had good luck with GP4000s-es, and a bad time with Schwalbe Marathon Pluses.
Other than that, I'm not sure there is specific winter rubber. I've had good luck with GP4000s-es, and a bad time with Schwalbe Marathon Pluses.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Depends upon what you want to pay.....
The Bonti's mentioned above - I've heard good things about them, but they aren't the grippiest of tyres in poor conditions. Conti gatorskins are tough, but slippy in wet.
As a good all round 'performance' tyre, I use Conti Grand Prix 4 Season tyres, 23mm and just 220g with 'vectran' puncture protection, but they are very grippy in all conditions. They are not cheap though at £30-£35 each.
Mich Pro Race / Conti Grand Prix 4000's etc are more of a race tyre, and possibly not best for commuting - i.e. expensive and wear a bit quicker.
The Bonti's mentioned above - I've heard good things about them, but they aren't the grippiest of tyres in poor conditions. Conti gatorskins are tough, but slippy in wet.
As a good all round 'performance' tyre, I use Conti Grand Prix 4 Season tyres, 23mm and just 220g with 'vectran' puncture protection, but they are very grippy in all conditions. They are not cheap though at £30-£35 each.
Mich Pro Race / Conti Grand Prix 4000's etc are more of a race tyre, and possibly not best for commuting - i.e. expensive and wear a bit quicker.
downfader
extimus uero philosophus
- Location
- 'ampsheeeer
Absolutely no way I'm sticking M+ on my bikes. Had my third puncture in as many rides on the Kinesis today. Thats with Gators, wondering if I have a naff one as they've never punctured this easy before. 
aberal
Guru
- Location
- Midlothian
Absolutely no way I'm sticking M+ on my bikes. Had my third puncture in as many rides on the Kinesis today. Thats with Gators, wondering if I have a naff one as they've never punctured this easy before.
Sounds to me like you've got something sharp stuck in the tyre. Have you checked for stones etc by rubbing your finger round the tyre?
upsidedown
Waiting for the great leap forward
- Location
- The middle bit
How does that work then ? I thought the idea of a treaded tyre was to shift water away from the bit of tyre that's about to hit the road. My slick tyres don't throw up half as much water as my treaded tyres.
Although it seems counter-intuitive, bicycle tyres for road use do not need a tread pattern, slicks are better in the wet as they have more rubber in contact with the road, which means more grip.
Kestevan
Last of the Summer Winos
- Location
- Holmfirth.
Wide, low pressure car type tyres allow a film of water to collect between the road and the tyre. The deep treads and sipes allow the water to be squeezed out of the sides, preventing aquaplaning.
On a narrrow high pressure tyre such as a bike tyre there isn't enough of a contact patch to allow the water to collect in the first place, in effect it's sqeezed out by the main body of the tyre. The comparatively shallow tread pattern on cycle tyres is purely there for marketing reasons, and has no practical benefit. It does however collect muddy water, and throw it up into your face/onto your back.
Of-road knobblies for MTB tyres is different as it's designed to achieve mechanical grip on loose/muddy ground. In this case the tread is rather important.
upsidedown
Waiting for the great leap forward
- Location
- The middle bit
Thanks for explaining that both. Makes sense.
