Winterising

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Fiona N

Veteran
I don't have access to a hose so I use a 5 Litre low-pressure garden spray ....

And I use a watering can with water from the water butt :biggrin: - no really.

Generally clean water washes most stuff off unless they're spraying that salt + molasses mixture which has become popular then I might give the bike a spray of Muc-off first. Then wipe dry and lube.
 

Amanda P

Legendary Member
Salt is not much of a problem for bicycles.

I beg to differ. It doesn't do a frame any serious harm, but anything that's mild steel and not protected will rust, and seize if the bike's used regularly on salted roads. I've had to replace countless brakes, cables, miscellaneous nuts and bolts, chains - and the low dangly bits of rear deraileurs don't do too well if they have steel cages (and lots of low-end ones do). Some hubs are pretty poorly sealed, too (Shimano Capreo springs to mind) and a salty run or two will make them gravelly. Cheapo steel pedals' bearings are often barely sealed at all, and cheap ball bearings rust very fast indeed.

For this reason, I try to rinse off the bike after a salty ride home each day. There were lengthy periods of last winter, though, when that wasn't possible either because every source of water was frozen solid, or because if I did, the bike would be frozen solid, with immobile wheels, the following morning.

If you're going to commute through the winter, you have to accept that you'll be replacing components, because they've corroded, a bit more often than you otherwise would. Grease everything threaded before you screw it together, and grease seat posts too - or they'll never come apart again. Consider a single speed, hub gear or fixed wheel. Consider posh, stainless steel, sealed cables - for a bike used in salty weather it's a worthwhile investment.

All this runs into money, but when we're talking chains, brake cables (and lights), your life's on the line.
 
D

Deleted member 1258

Guest
I beg to differ. It doesn't do a frame any serious harm, but anything that's mild steel and not protected will rust, and seize if the bike's used regularly on salted roads. I've had to replace countless brakes, cables, miscellaneous nuts and bolts, chains - and the low dangly bits of rear deraileurs don't do too well if they have steel cages (and lots of low-end ones do). Some hubs are pretty poorly sealed, too (Shimano Capreo springs to mind) and a salty run or two will make them gravelly. Cheapo steel pedals' bearings are often barely sealed at all, and cheap ball bearings rust very fast indeed.

For this reason, I try to rinse off the bike after a salty ride home each day. There were lengthy periods of last winter, though, when that wasn't possible either because every source of water was frozen solid, or because if I did, the bike would be frozen solid, with immobile wheels, the following morning.

If you're going to commute through the winter, you have to accept that you'll be replacing components, because they've corroded, a bit more often than you otherwise would. Grease everything threaded before you screw it together, and grease seat posts too - or they'll never come apart again. Consider a single speed, hub gear or fixed wheel. Consider posh, stainless steel, sealed cables - for a bike used in salty weather it's a worthwhile investment.

All this runs into money, but when we're talking chains, brake cables (and lights), your life's on the line.

Looks like we have different opinions on this, I've been commuting in all weathers for over 30 years and I've yet to have to replace anything just because its corroded, I've worn out plenty of stuff but but not because its corroded.
 

niggle

Senior Member
I ride my commuter all year round in all weathers, it has Nexus 8-speed hub gears and roller brakes. I just oil and adjust the chain occasionally, I have never washed it in the two years since I bought it and I am quite happy that the fasteners have got some surface corrosion. It cost me £110 as a shop soiled bargain from Halfords so it owes me nothing, but I would still be inconvenienced by losing it so I am glad that when locked in any given street or supermarket cycle rack it normally looks rougher and less desirable than something else near it. It also gives very little trouble with minimal maintenance, carries loads well and is very stable with studded tyres on snow and ice. It also works quite well on off road tracks and trails.

OTOH my best bike is a Genesis Equilibrium, it does have mudguards but I always wash it after a rainy ride and keep right on top of all its maintenance including regular chain cleaning and lubing. It is nice not to have to use it for bad weather commuting or leave it in vulnerable places.
 

400bhp

Guru
I commute all year round on a road bike and a hybrid.

They just need a bit more tlc in the winter.

MTFU & JFDI
 
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