wobbly wheel.
- Thread starter tatsumaru
- Start date
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swee'pea99
Squire
Almost certainly your cones have loosened off a bit. Release the tension (take off the wheel) then use finger & thumb to tighten one of the cones - ie, the nearest 'nut' on the axle to the actual hub - you'll probably find a quarter-turn or so will do the job. Don't overtighten, or you'll feel a 'grittiness' when you turn the axle - if that happens, just slacken it off a few degrees till it turns freely. Then replace the wheel. You're good for anything between 10 and 1000 miles. For a permanent fix, you need proper cone spanners, but I've never got round to buying any.
xpc316e
Veteran
- Location
- Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, UK
It does sound as though it is the cones that need tightening a little. I'd recommend that it is done sooner rather later, as it will eventually knacker the bearing surfaces in the hub and the wheel will be scrap if ignored. You do really need a pair of cones spanners (they are especially thin - nothing else will work well) and if you search on Youtube for bicycle tutor, I am sure there will be a video tutorial to help you.
Take the cassette off. Then you can see what your doing and clean the freehub and cassette into the job.
Regard the drive side as the 'fixed' side, ie, use the cone and locknut and tighten up solidly. Do not add or remove any washers between the cone and locknut, this will mess up the distance the cassette is away from the mech hanger.
On the non drive side, slacken the lock nut using the drive side cone as leverage. Then finger tight the non driveside cone.
To make things easier, hold the wheel in a vice by the drive side lock nut. This makes sure the spindle is rigid.
With two cone spanners, hold the non drive side cone while tightening the non drive side lock nut. Keep testing the wheel rotation for play or tightness.
Adjust the position of non drive side cone and lock nut to get a free running wheel with no play or roughness AND the locknut tight on the cone.
Don't overtighten. Its better a little slacker than tight because the Quick release squeeze will close the assembly in a bit.
Regard the drive side as the 'fixed' side, ie, use the cone and locknut and tighten up solidly. Do not add or remove any washers between the cone and locknut, this will mess up the distance the cassette is away from the mech hanger.
On the non drive side, slacken the lock nut using the drive side cone as leverage. Then finger tight the non driveside cone.
To make things easier, hold the wheel in a vice by the drive side lock nut. This makes sure the spindle is rigid.
With two cone spanners, hold the non drive side cone while tightening the non drive side lock nut. Keep testing the wheel rotation for play or tightness.
Adjust the position of non drive side cone and lock nut to get a free running wheel with no play or roughness AND the locknut tight on the cone.
Don't overtighten. Its better a little slacker than tight because the Quick release squeeze will close the assembly in a bit.
The cone half of the assembly is the 'sacrificial' part. The cones wear way before the cup. It is easier to replace cones than replace the cup.
It will be OK to finish a 300 Audax on a hub that is grumbling. The cones will be pitted but the cup will be fine.
It will be OK to finish a 300 Audax on a hub that is grumbling. The cones will be pitted but the cup will be fine.
accountantpete
OAP
If the wheel is wobbling then try just tightening the QR a bit - this usually removes any play.
Ever seen a QR fail? Shoots into the hedgerow and you never see it again. You don't need to, its now useless.
mcshroom
Bionic Subsonic
- Location
- Egremont, Cumbria
Not seen one fail, but did have a QR skewer hold a broken wheel axle together most of the way along the Hadrian's Cycleway (probably a good 120 miles). Was a bit bent when I tried to remove it though
accountantpete
OAP
To be fair- for this to happen you would have to be seriously bending the chainstays inwards towards an ill fitting hub.
Why?
Incidentally, The Wobbly Wheel is a pub on the road between Banbury and Warwick, near Warmington.
It's a nice stop after climbing Edge Hill on the way to Banbury. There is a Motel there which is just about half way to London.
If the dropouts or forkends are not parallel, ( hub faces not correct width ) there is a bending action put on the spindle through compression. The bearings run uneven and they wear quicker, or the spindle cracks.
If its the rear spindle cracking and fatigue fails, the next time you remove the wheel because the tyre is rubbing on the left hand chainstay every time you pedal hard, the spindle comes out in two pieces.
If on the other hand, the dropouts, spindle, cones and locknuts are in parallel, if there is a weakness in the QR thread, ( it can happen with out of alignment assy too ) and the owner gives the QR some jip, BANG!
I am hoping Dr Philip Whiteman of the Beacon RCC can confirm a QR failure on a Beacon RCC Sunday run about three years ago when a Beacon rider suffered the catastrophe about 1 mile south of Ragley Hall near Alcester.
The QR was never found and the chap phoned his brother-in-law ( a man with a van ) to get home. I cannot remember the chap's name ( I'm a Solihull CC rider ). We were returning from Craycombe cafe, where since an uproar with Kenilworth CC, cyclists have been banned.
So in conclusion.
You can have large muscles in your legs and bend rear spindles, or large muscles in you arms and over tighten QR skewers putting a squeeze on the bearings.
Either way, learn how to assemble a rear hub.
And finally.
A cyclist who has a perfect dropout/spindle alignment and NEVER suffered a bent rear axle;
has NEVER pedalled hard.
Rhythm Thief
Legendary Member
- Location
- Ross on Wye
So in conclusion.
You can have large muscles in your legs and bend rear spindles, or large muscles in you arms and over tighten QR skewers putting a squeeze on the bearings.
Either way, learn how to assemble a rear hub.
And finally.
A cyclist who has a perfect dropout/spindle alignment and NEVER suffered a bent rear axle;
has NEVER pedalled hard.
You're overcomplicating things again Jimbo ... the anecdotes are great, but keep them in Cafe, eh?
I was answering and explaining AccountantPete's mistaken idea about loading the QR.
I though it was a pretty good account of why and how. Is there anyone else with the experience? Let them speak.
Anyway, I shall wait for a note from Admin.
Shouldn't 'Wobbly Wheel' be in Know How?
Makes me wonder why I went to the bother. In future, newbies and the semi-experienced with problems can cough up at a bike shop.
swee'pea99
Squire
Oh don't pout. You know if the wind changes while you're like that...