The building of my second CCCF (FM 015)

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ColinJ

Puzzle game procrastinator!
3000 plus cals ? Really ? Wow

I'll need to work my way up to that slowly to make sure I don't start to gain - but at least I have a target eh ?
That is taking 20 miles a day of vigorous cycling into account. If you weren't doing the cycling, it would be much lower.

What I don't think you've thought through is that the more underweight you go, the more you are going to have to go over your maintenance calories to get your weight back up again. That means your fear of eating 3,000 calories a day is eventually going to mean you eating much more than that so facing it sooner rather than later makes more sense.

Being 2.5 stone underweight is a lot more harmful than being 2.5 stone overweight. You would be a bit flabby at 15 stone, but for a man of your height doing all that cycling, it wouldn't be a major health issue. You being a skeletal 10 stone probably will be!

You aren't going to get huge again eating 3,000-and-a-bit calories a day when you are riding 100+ fast miles a week - honest!

Just eat 3,500** calories a day until you hit your target weight and then start eating 3,000 a day. If your weight then drifts down, go back up to 3,500. If it drifts up, cut back to 2,500 a day. That way, your weight should stay within a pound or so of your target and any changes will be slow so you can react to them before they become a worry. (**If you don't gain weight on 3,500 cals/day, up it by 250 cals a day until you do!)

You will eventually work out how many calories you need a day to keep your weight stable.
If you ever get ill or injured so you can't ride, stick to 2,500 calories a day until you get back on your bike again.

Well, that's what I would try to do in your situation - good luck!
 
OP
OP
gb155

gb155

Fan Boy No More.
Location
Manchester-Ish
Yup Colin has pretty much nailed it

Down to me now I guess eh ?

PS Thanks Colin
 

P.H

Über Member
Sorry folks, don't mean to offend anyone but this is a great place for cycling but shoot for medical advice. However well meaning anyones is, they can't possibly know enough about anyones personal requirements to give sound advice over the internet. The professionals wouldn't, what makes anyone think amateurs could or should? Gaz's GP should be absolutely overjoyed to see how far he's come and be able to sort the correct action for the desired goals, if they're not, change the GP.

Sorry again to anyone who doesn't like what I've just written. Now can we have some more photos please.
 
OP
OP
gb155

gb155

Fan Boy No More.
Location
Manchester-Ish
Sorry folks, don't mean to offend anyone but this is a great place for cycling but shoot for medical advice. However well meaning anyones is, they can't possibly know enough about anyones personal requirements to give sound advice over the internet. The professionals wouldn't, what makes anyone think amateurs could or should? Gaz's GP should be absolutely overjoyed to see how far he's come and be able to sort the correct action for the desired goals, if they're not, change the GP.

Sorry again to anyone who doesn't like what I've just written. Now can we have some more photos please.

The build has stalled for now :0(

Im waiting a couple of parts via snail mail ......... Best I can do is this with the new stem, sorry

EDIT: Why oh why did I tape the gear cable down when I am waiting for the brake cable ? Its gonna have to come off when it arrived

D'oh

Regardless, I have learn more about fettling doing this than I ever thought I could !


5ec0e611-6469-61af.jpg
 

Rob3rt

Man or Moose!
Location
Manchester
Whatever you are comfortable riding, but those handlebars look wierd, never seen anything like that before, hehe. What are they?
 
OP
OP
gb155

gb155

Fan Boy No More.
Location
Manchester-Ish
Whatever you are comfortable riding, but those handlebars look wierd, never seen anything like that before, hehe. What are they?

They are ergonomic/anatomic bars, never used them before, but always wanted to give them a ago


we will see if they are any good :smile:
 

Rob3rt

Man or Moose!
Location
Manchester
They are ergonomic/anatomic bars, never used them before, but always wanted to give them a ago

we will see if they are any good :smile:

I've had 2 pairs of anatomic bars (I think, maybe I'm confusing the shape with something else) but nothing with a drop like that, those look like they have the drop of track sprint bars.

Best bars I've ever had were Cinelli Vai Palm XL, they are sweet looking and very comfy, and they only cost about £30. I prefer curved bars than ergo style ones, the very final section of the drop on ergo bars is usually too small to be of any use, hehe.

BTW, I dont know how well set up your bars atm, but you might want to look at tilting them forward a tad, they look a bit like they are pointing through the rear hub, IMO thats a bit too tilted, but whatever fits you, just a suggestion if you havent finalised your fit. I tend to point mine through the rear brake mount and then fine tune them from that benchmark.
 

gaz

Cycle Camera TV
Location
South Croydon
If you look at the top of the bars then try are perfect. I would leave them in the position they are in otherwise you can't put the hoods in a comfortable place.
 

Rob3rt

Man or Moose!
Location
Manchester
If you look at the top of the bars then try are perfect. I would leave them in the position they are in otherwise you can't put the hoods in a comfortable place.

Whatever fits Gaz really, but re the top of the bars, imo its not perfect, the top of the drops should point down slightly, then the hood will form a bullhorn shape.
 

gaz

Cycle Camera TV
Location
South Croydon
Whatever fits Gaz really, but re the top of the bars, imo its not perfect, the top of the drops should point down slightly, then the hood will form a bullhorn shape.
If those bars are rotated any more then you can't put the hoods in a sensible position, it will either be too far down and it feels like you are falling off or they will be so far up they are on the curve back to the stem.
Deffinetly better to position your bars from the tops and then look at the drops, especially as drop bars don't all have te same shape.
 

P.H

Über Member
[QUOTE 1471898"]
There's no universal correct position for drop bars. It depends on your personal preference, what you find comfortable and where your hands spend most of their time.
[/quote]
..and fashion, every few years the rules change, just look at a few photos from 10, 20 and 30 years ago. If there'd been forums then they'd be criticising the way people are saying bars ought to be set now. If it works, it's right.
 

Angelfishsolo

A Velocipedian
[QUOTE 1471898"]
There's no universal correct position for drop bars. It depends on your personal preference, what you find comfortable and where your hands spend most of their time.
[/quote]

I'll agree with that. My first two rides were interrupted by me tweaking the bars every few miles. I like the feel of mine now but I am sure many would say they are wrong.
 

Rob3rt

Man or Moose!
Location
Manchester
If those bars are rotated any more then you can't put the hoods in a sensible position, it will either be too far down and it feels like you are falling off or they will be so far up they are on the curve back to the stem.
Deffinetly better to position your bars from the tops and then look at the drops, especially as drop bars don't all have te same shape.

I dont particularly agree. There is plenty room to angle them down a tad, but those bars look pretty wierd in shape so its hard to be certain, I really cannot fathon the purpose of that shape tbh but thats just my opinion.

IMO drop bars should be choosen with a reach, shape and drop suited to you and initially set up according to the drops imo. The hoods can be moved over quite a large range on most bars ive come into contact with whilst maintaining perfect useability, the shape of the drop cant be altered. My workflow for setting up bars is as follows.

Angle bar to point through the rear brake mount.
Sit on the bike and have a good reach around testing possitions on the drops and then modify the bar angle to suit.
Possition hoods roughtly and feel what it is like, adjust accordingly.
Remove bars and adjust one of the hoods a tiny bit so there is no rocking on a level sufrace then torque up the bolts.
Reset the bars and double check the fit.
Run in the cables.
Adjust the reach of the lever.

To be honest, its a bit futile to argue the toss about bar possition, because everyone has different comfort levels and bars do vary, like has been stated. My point was a constructive comment, that the drops do look to be in a bit of an awkward/odd possition to me and if thats not Gaz's prefered set up and is just a rough hash together that he could use the rear brake mount as a good starting place to work from.
 

montage

God Almighty
Location
Bethlehem
Regarding the positioning of hoods, you need them just high enough so that they can be held in the aero Cancellara position, this way, you look more like Cancellara. Nothing else matters
 

gaz

Cycle Camera TV
Location
South Croydon
My point was a constructive comment, that the drops do look to be in a bit of an awkward/odd possition to me and if thats not Gaz's prefered set up and is just a rough hash together that he could use the rear brake mount as a good starting place to work from.
My point was that I don't think it's possible to get any better than that with that bar shape :tongue:
In the end I think we both agree but have different ways of approaching it.


Regarding the positioning of hoods, you need them just high enough so that they can be held in the aero Cancellara position, this way, you look more like Cancellara. Nothing else matters



cancellara-superman.jpg
 
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