£400 hardtail - recommendations?

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cjb

Well-Known Member
Location
West Yorkshire
Code:
Plenty of £400 bikes are fit for purpose.

As I have said previously, I entirely agree.

I actually joined this forum because I'm also getting into cycling on the road. My concept of what constitutes a good mountain bike spec would be regarded as quite mundane on most other specialist mountain bike forums. On reflection, I guess I should not have posted on this thread !!!
 

Zoiders

New Member
Code:
Plenty of £400 bikes are fit for purpose.

As I have said previously, I entirely agree.

I actually joined this forum because I'm also getting into cycling on the road. My concept of what constitutes a good mountain bike spec would be regarded as quite mundane on most other specialist mountain bike forums. On reflection, I guess I should not have posted on this thread !!!
rolleyes.gif


Willy waving again.
 
OP
OP
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Percy

Well-Known Member
Code:
Plenty of £400 bikes are fit for purpose.

As I have said previously, I entirely agree.

Well, no, you didn't actually, which is what got us in this mess in the first place. What you said was:

"Buying a £400 bike for off-road use is not a good idea."

That's a direct quote. You seem to have confused the intention of this thread - it was meant to be a 'let's talk a bit about £400 mtbs and what's out there for the money' thread, not a 'tell us all how much you like to spend on your bikes' thread.

I'm sure we could all wax lyrical about components and bikes we've bought previously - I've just finished building my own road bike, with a brand new SRAM groupset, but you don't hear me going on about it, do you? No, you don't. Stop confusing things. Edit: And willy waving. :hello:
 

mcshroom

Bionic Subsonic
To be fair it does rather depend on what you are wanting to do with your bike. For the amount of off-roading I do, my £130 Rockrider 5.1 survives well enough, but it would be heavy, slow and pretty crap for someone who did a decent amount of off-roading.

On the other hand the tourer I have suits a majority of my riding fine, so for me was worth spending a bit more on.
 

Cubist

Still wavin'
Location
Ovver 'thill
Percy

Answer us this question, and perhaps we can move away from all the carping and get to the point of the thread.
Do you intend to ride more than just towpaths and gentle bridleways, or trail centre green and blue routes? Do you want to take part in MTB challenges/distance events/races, or do you want to bimble for leisure rides round the local sustrans routes?


Despite the ill-feeling, everybody posting so far is right, but are arguing from different perspectives. I agree with Zoiders up to a point, but I also agree with cjb. The willy-waving etc is a natural part of what we do as a hobby.... we love kit.

If you are only going to be doing towpaths and gentle bridleways, you don't need to spend the earth. You'll find loads of bikes at that price point, but as Zoiders says, forks at that price will be coils. If you do want to spec one, forget the groupsets (they'll all be functional but basic) and brakes will vary between mechanical discs and some rare hydraulics.

Most of the frames will be solid and functional, if not a little heavy compared with a £600 plus bike. Specialized win the frame race this far down the spec, together with the Cube analog (but that is just my opinion)

So, the fork question. Many cheap forks are undamped coils. These take some of the sting out of the bumps, but don't offer as much control as one that is well made and well damped. If you are only riding bridleways at leisurely pace, then it doesn't really matter.

If, like cjb, you want to ride faster over more technical stuff, a better fork with air spring and damping is the way to go.

Some will jump in here and say "are you telling me that you can't take a £400 Speshagiant Analock on red routes just because it's got an 80mm undamped coil fork on it?" and my answer would be, of course you can,but you will be limited in terms of speed and stopping power, and the componentry may well wear out very quickly. (possibly even as fast as XTR Angel!) What I'm trying, perhaps a bit clumsily to say here, is that I wouldn't, because I know I'd have to take it easy and would be afraid the fork would ping me off into the weeds

If you want to ride tech stuff look a bit further up the price brackets for stuff like the Carrera AM Fury. £550 will get you one of the sweetest Trail hardtails around (but you'll have to fit a 20" and be quick, there aren't many left!

If, like cjb, me and many others, you want to ride tech trails fast, and put the bike through its paces at the weekend, with a few long-distance rides thrown in, then I'm afraid you will need to spend more in order to make the experience worthwhile or enjoyable. Better brakes, lighter frames, lighter wheels, better rolling tyres, and, I'm sorry to say, better, more expensive forks. That Carrera above will do all of that for the money.

Hope this helps, but there are so many bikes out there at £400 that the choice is bewildering. Start with the fork, and look for anything with Suntour Epicon, Rockshox Dart, Manitou,. Avoid unbranded forks, and steer clear of RST. Snntour XCT or XCM are Ok, but look for ones with damping control (lockout is good, but not all that important, you don't get much pedal bob at that price point!)

If you want to do some serious stuff, spend your £400 n a secondhand bike. Ebay is littered with unused Carreras bought on a whim. You may even find a top brand bike for littlel money, but you'll have to have reserve funds to replace worn out bits on it when it arrives.
 

cjb

Well-Known Member
Location
West Yorkshire
Agreed, for trail riding, absolutely fine.


Percy, I also said this, when the type of riding you intended to do was made clear.
 

cjb

Well-Known Member
Location
West Yorkshire
Code:
Despite the ill-feeling, everybody posting so far is right, but are arguing from different perspectives. I agree with Zoiders up to a point, but I also agree with cjb. The willy-waving etc is a natural part of what we do as a hobby.... we love kit.

Cubist, thanks for your support - I was feeling a bit lonely here and was thinking I was in the wrong place.

Your post was excellent and highlighted the healthy diversity in our sport. Like many riders, I build up my own bikes and get tremendous pleasure from this aspect. I'm sure, like me, you've met up with groups of other riders out on the hills and spent a happy 10 minutes comparing bikes and discussing components - all part of the fun IMHO.
 

Angelfishsolo

A Velocipedian
If you look at the decathlon bike I have recommended you will see it has hydraulic forks Rockshox recon and SRAM X7 contemporary. It is a little heavy but one hell of a bike and certainly upto red routes IMHO.

Here is the spec.

Weight : 12,85 Kg in Size S

Frame : double thickness 6061 T6 aluminium; racing frame geometry; 1.9kg in size L. Hardwearing and lightweight. Its frame geometry provides the best compromise for climbing and downhill riding.

Suspension/Shock absorbers : New Rock Shox RECON Silver TK 100mm fork. Remote Lock out at the handlebar. Effective rebound adjustment and lockout with a half turn of the lever.

Drivetrain : Shimano Deore M590 22x32x44 crankset; SRAM X - 7 front derailleur; SRAM X - 7 rear derailleur; SRAM PG950 11x32 9-speed cassette.

Braking : Avid ELIXIR 3 hydraulic disc brakes, 160 mm rotors. Powerful and progressive whatever the conditions

Handlebar/stem/saddle : Rockrider Comp 600/400mm raised handlebar; Rockrider Comp stem; b'Twin MTB comp saddle. Oversize handlebar and stem, more durable and lighter. A raised riding position for added control and comfort without compromising on performance.

Wheels : Rockrider Comp 32 hole rims by Rigida JT D041/D142 hubs, 2mm stainless steel spokes Watertight bearings.

Tyres : New Rockrider Sport.

Pedals : Wellgo 823 WPD clipless pedals. Safer and more effecient.

Size : S, M, L and XL.

Weight : 12,85 Kg in Size S

Frame : double thickness 6061 T6 aluminium; racing frame geometry; 1.9kg in size L. Hardwearing and lightweight. Its frame geometry provides the best compromise for climbing and downhill riding.

Suspension/Shock absorbers : New Rock Shox RECON Silver TK 100mm fork. Remote Lock out at the handlebar. Effective rebound adjustment and lockout with a half turn of the lever.

Drivetrain : Shimano Deore M590 22x32x44 crankset; SRAM X - 7 front derailleur; SRAM X - 7 rear derailleur; SRAM PG950 11x32 9-speed cassette.

Braking : Avid ELIXIR 3 hydraulic disc brakes, 160 mm rotors. Powerful and progressive whatever the conditions

Handlebar/stem/saddle : Rockrider Comp 600/400mm raised handlebar; Rockrider Comp stem; b'Twin MTB comp saddle. Oversize handlebar and stem, more durable and lighter. A raised riding position for added control and comfort without compromising on performance.

Wheels : Rockrider Comp 32 hole rims by Rigida JT D041/D142 hubs, 2mm stainless steel spokes Watertight bearings.

Tyres : New Rockrider Sport.

Pedals : Wellgo 823 WPD clipless pedals. Safer and more effecient.

Size : S, M, L and XL.
 
OP
OP
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Percy

Well-Known Member
Percy

Answer us this question, and perhaps we can move away from all the carping and get to the point of the thread.
Do you intend to ride more than just towpaths and gentle bridleways, or trail centre green and blue routes? Do you want to take part in MTB challenges/distance events/races, or do you want to bimble for leisure rides round the local sustrans routes?


Despite the ill-feeling, everybody posting so far is right, but are arguing from different perspectives. I agree with Zoiders up to a point, but I also agree with cjb. The willy-waving etc is a natural part of what we do as a hobby.... we love kit.

If you are only going to be doing towpaths and gentle bridleways, you don't need to spend the earth. You'll find loads of bikes at that price point, but as Zoiders says, forks at that price will be coils. If you do want to spec one, forget the groupsets (they'll all be functional but basic) and brakes will vary between mechanical discs and some rare hydraulics.

Most of the frames will be solid and functional, if not a little heavy compared with a £600 plus bike. Specialized win the frame race this far down the spec, together with the Cube analog (but that is just my opinion)

So, the fork question. Many cheap forks are undamped coils. These take some of the sting out of the bumps, but don't offer as much control as one that is well made and well damped. If you are only riding bridleways at leisurely pace, then it doesn't really matter.

If, like cjb, you want to ride faster over more technical stuff, a better fork with air spring and damping is the way to go.

Some will jump in here and say "are you telling me that you can't take a £400 Speshagiant Analock on red routes just because it's got an 80mm undamped coil fork on it?" and my answer would be, of course you can,but you will be limited in terms of speed and stopping power, and the componentry may well wear out very quickly. (possibly even as fast as XTR Angel!) What I'm trying, perhaps a bit clumsily to say here, is that I wouldn't, because I know I'd have to take it easy and would be afraid the fork would ping me off into the weeds

If you want to ride tech stuff look a bit further up the price brackets for stuff like the Carrera AM Fury. £550 will get you one of the sweetest Trail hardtails around (but you'll have to fit a 20" and be quick, there aren't many left!

If, like cjb, me and many others, you want to ride tech trails fast, and put the bike through its paces at the weekend, with a few long-distance rides thrown in, then I'm afraid you will need to spend more in order to make the experience worthwhile or enjoyable. Better brakes, lighter frames, lighter wheels, better rolling tyres, and, I'm sorry to say, better, more expensive forks. That Carrera above will do all of that for the money.

Hope this helps, but there are so many bikes out there at £400 that the choice is bewildering. Start with the fork, and look for anything with Suntour Epicon, Rockshox Dart, Manitou,. Avoid unbranded forks, and steer clear of RST. Snntour XCT or XCM are Ok, but look for ones with damping control (lockout is good, but not all that important, you don't get much pedal bob at that price point!)

If you want to do some serious stuff, spend your £400 n a secondhand bike. Ebay is littered with unused Carreras bought on a whim. You may even find a top brand bike for littlel money, but you'll have to have reserve funds to replace worn out bits on it when it arrives.

Thank you Cubist for such a reasoned and thorough response - it's just what I was looking for.

I plan to be doing something in between, I guess. Not just towpaths and bridleways - I'd like to get on some tougher stuff and fast trails, but I'm not interested in racing/challenges/distance events.

I'll look through your suggestions - perhaps pushing the budget up a little is the answer, or getting on ebay, as you say.
 

Kestevan

Last of the Summer Winos
Location
Holmfirth.
The Rockrider is a cracking bike. But the tyres that come with Decathlon MTB's are shocking.

They are plasticy and hard, have little grip in any conditions and the smallest puncture can quickly lead to a split tyre and a long walk home......
 
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