A pain in the a**e (and wrists)

[Lazy Fat Vegan]

A week ago I decided to start cycling - mostly to try and shift some weight. I already had a hybrid bike that I had used with no issues in the past, but I was never a serious cyclist. So far I've done two rides on it, about 2.5 or 3 miles each time, and both times my bones in my backside have been hurting before I get back. I also think I'm putting too much weight on my wrists as they're hurting too and causing my fingers to get pins & needles. I've looked at raising the handlebars, but the tube seems to be at the maximum height, so the wrists are just gonna have to strengthen up I guess, but I'm wondering if the pain in the backside is also just a case of toughening up or whether getting a big padded saddle would help? I know that you can get proper cycling stuff with padding etc in but as I'm not ever going to be riding miles and miles I'm kinda unwilling to get them as I'd end up being the old man with all the gear but no idea.

 

[Oldhippy]

Most likely to be the set up. There are many on here wiser than I that will give tips.

 

[RoadRider400]

I already had a hybrid bike that I had used with no issues in the past, but I was never a serious cyclist. So far I've done two rides on it, about 2.5 or 3 miles each time

The obvious question should really be how much weight have you put on since last cycling? If the set up was fine before then the weight going through your contact points sounds like the only variable.

 

[Dogtrousers]

I'd persevere to begin with. Keep the rides short and regular. You may well ease your way into it. Try shifting your position around as you go, eg your hand position, so you don't have pressure in one spot all the time.

The easiest thing to check on your setup is saddle height. The easiest way to check this (there are others) is to place one heel on the pedal at its lowest point and straighten your leg. The position of your crotch will be your saddle height. This will mean that when riding with the ball of your foot on the pedal there will be a slight bend in the knee at the lowest position.

What kind of bike do you have? There may be latitude for raising the bars further by fitting an adjustable stem.

Padded saddle may well be worth a go. There's a tendency on here (sorry @chris-suffolk ) that holds that saddles must be hard. But that's not necessarily the case in my experience. And, I'd hazard a guess, less likely to be the case for short rides. My advice as far as saddles go my advice is: Ignore all advice, including mine.

Don't be afraid of being an old bloke with all the gear and no idea. It's never done me any harm. I don't have a clue.

 

[mjr]

I recommend www.wheel-easy.org.uk/bike-set-up/

Padded saddles are controversial. Too much is bad. Too little is bad. Just having either in the wrong place is bad. I favour the classics (concor, contour, rolls, turbo, ...), which tend to be saddle shaped (as in they are a gentle U front to back and a steeper n side to side), which a lot of modern saddles aren't because they're intended for wearers of paddy pants. The key things are how far apart your "sit bones" are - when you are leaning as much or little as you do on the bike - which you can measure with some corrugated card, stairs and a ruler; and how close together your thighs get as you pedal, as you need a narrower nose the closer they get, else it chafed.

The exceptions IMO are mattress saddles like Lycett clones which tend to be comfy but sweaty so mainly for short rides; and rubber or leather ones like Brooks which mould to your shape a bit.

 

[Dogtrousers]

I recommend www.wheel-easy.org.uk/bike-set-up/

Link goes to a page that in turn links to some Park Tool vids on derailleur setup, and one other link - which I think is what you refer to - which is broken.

 

[ColinJ]

I have had wrist pain caused by having my gear and brake levers set at the wrong angle so my wrists were bent when riding. Ideally, your hands should be in line with your arms, with very little or no vertical or lateral bend.

 

[mjr]

Link goes to a page that in turn links to some Park Tool vids on derailleur setup, and one other link - which I think is what you refer to - which is broken.

I'll let the author know once I get home this evening. Thanks for the warning.

Edit: link worked for me. What's going on?

 

[fair weather cyclist]

Speaking of pain, I recently bought a new road bike, it's got a much more aggressive geometry than my old bike.

When I'm on the drops and keeping low to be more aerodynamic, after 10 minutes I get completely numb down there. I've got a bike fit appointment in a little more than a month, but what would a quick fix to this? I'm thinking about tilting the saddle and have it pointing down but how many degrees?

 

[ColinJ]

I'm thinking about tilting the saddle and have it pointing down but how many degrees?

Not many!

I usually go for one notch on the seatpost clamp and that makes a big difference. If you overdo it, you will soon find that you have replaced one problem with a different one.

 

[MichaelW2]

I always advise couch to saddle cyclists to start with very short rides of 10 mins and gradually extend the time as you get conditioned to being on a bike.
Padded saddles feel better in the shop than they do on a ride. Most riders need the support of a firmer saddle supporting their sit bones and not squshy bits.

Hand problems are harder to fix. You should ride with relaxed shoulders, flexed elbows and a neutral wrist bend. Gloves may help and IMHO are essential in any kind of crash to protect your hands from abrasion.

 

[Reynard]

A good bit of it is just not being used to cycling.

My bum always hurts if I've been off the bike for a while - and I know I have saddles and set-ups that suit. That part, alas, is just a case of getting saddle time - little and often is the answer here.

Wrists, possibly likewise. When you get tired, your posture starts to go, putting more pressure on your contact points.

 

[KnittyNorah]

I was a regular cyclist for many years until I had to give it up. Fast forward 10 years and I'm eagerly awaiting delivery of a very different bike to those I've ridden in the past - and am planning for barely 5 minutes to the end of the road and back for the first few days, adding a circuit of the church car-park when I feel ready. Literally no more than that. I don't mind my sit-bones being uncomfortable, but I refuse to inflict pain on myself - and painful sit-bones are a peculiarly nagging, wearying sort of pain, sapping your energy on beautiful days when you should be pedalling along without a care in the world ...
Best not to let it get to that state and be a bit kinder to yourself by backing off the time and distance ridden.

 

[Deleted member 1258]

Link goes to a page that in turn links to some Park Tool vids on derailleur setup, and one other link - which I think is what you refer to - which is broken.

The link works for me.

https://wheel-easy.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/bike-set-up-2017a.pdf

 

[cyberknight]

Speaking of pain, I recently bought a new road bike, it's got a much more aggressive geometry than my old bike.

When I'm on the drops and keeping low to be more aerodynamic, after 10 minutes I get completely numb down there. I've got a bike fit appointment in a little more than a month, but what would a quick fix to this? I'm thinking about tilting the saddle and have it pointing down but how many degrees?

all my bikes have the same saddle height, setback , reach and drop to hoods as i wrote it all down so i can transfer my proffered set up to another bike , my current nice bike although it has the same nominal geometry the handlebars have a compact reach so i had to use a 20 mm longer stem , ribblebuild has a slammed cut steerer tube so i had to flip the stem to make it right