A woody question...

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Spinney

Bimbleur extraordinaire
Location
Back up north
We have various bits of pine furniture. No surface finish as far as I can tell, and now they are beginning to look a bit tired. So I want to sand them down and then polish them. So I looked in B&Q...

...wax, instant wax, linseed oil, instant-french-polish-in-a tin, spray polish, liquid beeswax, etc, etc :wacko:

So, any recommendations? I don't want a glossy, varnished look, just a nice, subtle sheen.
 

twentysix by twentyfive

Clinging on tightly
Location
Over the Hill
Donkey's years ago I spent weeks polishing by hand with French Polish from bare but stained wood. Not pine tho'. It did look quite nice after. These days I think I'd use some sort of power tool. Quite possibly the recipes for polishes have changed since my "day".
 

Globalti

Legendary Member
Waxes and vegetable oils are all very "right on" but not very practical in real life. I have fitted 12 internal doors in our house (only 2 more to go!) and have finished them all with Dulux trade polyurethane varnish, which stabilises and protects them against drying and shrinking or damp and swelling:
dulux_trade_polyurethane_varnish.jpg

I believe you can only get this from Dulux decorator centres, which are great places to buy from because the staff are friendly, professional and helpful and if you get a loyalty card you get a further discount on their already good prices. The Decorator centres sell better quality paints and varnishes than you can buy retail because professionals don't want to have to put on lots of coats. From the little I know about paint formulation I can tell you that there is massive variation and cheap paint is all thickener and filler and very little opacifier.

Back to the varnish... this stuff is very easy to use and the satin version gives a nice subtle sheen just like wax. It is extremely forgiving of bad technique, once dry dribbles just disappear and brush marks don't show. Rub down before applying and put on two or three coats, rubbed down between for the best effect. Don't use Ronseal varnish, even their satin finish is horribly shiny and shows every tiny imperfection.

PS: A week after you've applied this you can go over it very gently with a fine sandpaper and remove the tiny bits of fluff and dust, which inevitable get onto sticky varnish and you will end up with a finish, which feels super smooth and pleasing to the touch... you could even wax it if you wanted.
 

Stonepark

Veteran
Location
Airth
floor board bees wax is best, initially 3 coats, buffed up between and after them, an additional coat once a year will keep them looking good.
 

asterix

Comrade Member
Location
Limoges or York
Wet or dry sandpaper is good, used wet after an initial coat or two.

Or you could go for Liberon TO1L 1L Pure Tung Oil after sanding.

Liberon Pure Tung Oil is highly resistant to water, alcohol and food acids. Providing a hardwearing finish, it is ideal for surfaces such as kitchen worktops, tables and all high quality interior wood. Pure Tung Oil, with no added dryers, is a natural, non-toxic product which can be used on toys and objects in contact with food such as salad bowls etc. Recommended for use on exterior oak.

Very easy to apply, I have used this on a chestnut dining table and it produces a lovely smooth finish.
 

Stonepark

Veteran
Location
Airth
For pine, wax is best, oil soaks into it too much and then dries out again as formulations aimed at denser hardwood protection.

Bees wax is what was used traditionally and is still the best, but requires some elbow grease, oil is used simply because it is brush on, buff off but does not provide the same protection as it is absorbed into the wood fibre, wax sits on the surface and seals it.
 

Archie_tect

De Skieven Architek... aka Penfold + Horace
Location
Northumberland
If you don't want to have to do any maintenance or avoid getting rings from mugs on the furniture, use a satin finish polyurethane coat on it, it's water and stain proof.
 
U

User482

Guest
Waxes and vegetable oils are all very "right on" but not very practical in real life. I have fitted 12 internal doors in our house (only 2 more to go!) and have finished them all with Dulux trade polyurethane varnish, which stabilises and protects them against drying and shrinking or damp and swelling:
dulux_trade_polyurethane_varnish.jpg

I believe you can only get this from Dulux decorator centres, which are great places to buy from because the staff are friendly, professional and helpful and if you get a loyalty card you get a further discount on their already good prices. The Decorator centres sell better quality paints and varnishes than you can buy retail because professionals don't want to have to put on lots of coats. From the little I know about paint formulation I can tell you that there is massive variation and cheap paint is all thickener and filler and very little opacifier.

Back to the varnish... this stuff is very easy to use and the satin version gives a nice subtle sheen just like wax. It is extremely forgiving of bad technique, once dry dribbles just disappear and brush marks don't show. Rub down before applying and put on two or three coats, rubbed down between for the best effect. Don't use Ronseal varnish, even their satin finish is horribly shiny and shows every tiny imperfection.

PS: A week after you've applied this you can go over it very gently with a fine sandpaper and remove the tiny bits of fluff and dust, which inevitable get onto sticky varnish and you will end up with a finish, which feels super smooth and pleasing to the touch... you could even wax it if you wanted.


Whereas I used linseed oil on our internal doors and kitchen worktops (all oak), and haven't had any problems at all.
 

green1

Über Member
Whereas I used linseed oil on our internal doors and kitchen worktops (all oak), and haven't had any problems at all.
Just have to be careful with clothes used to put it on afterwards as they can spontaneously combust.
 

ASC1951

Guru
Location
Yorkshire
When I was young and keen I used to make my own polish out of beeswax and turpentine. On high-grained furniture it does look wonderful, but it needs a lot of effort which tbh is wasted on new wood.

A personal view - I don't like polyurethane varnish, not even matt varnish. It's ok on floorboards and skirtings, but on furniture I would use wax. Even on doors I prefer oil to varnish.
 
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