Advice on fitting Shimano SPD-SL pedals

[Happy_Days]

I'd appreciate your advice on screwing and lubrication

What torque setting would you suggest for fitting SPD-SL pedals? Shimano states 35-55 Nm, but I heard that may be too tight in practice. And before you say "hand-tighten," why pass up the chance to use my Big Boy Torque Wrench?

Regarding greasing them, would you choose Shimano Anti-Seize or copper grease?

 

[Drago]

No one knows Shimano products better than Shimano,,so follow their advice. Id be happy using copper grease, but if you have the Shimano stuff then why not?

 

[rogerzilla]

45Nm, yes. Precession keeps them tight but shouldn't be relied upon to tighten them in the first place. Anti-seize is fine on the threads. They'll still be pigs to remove.

 

[Paulus]

I would say do them ip to the recommended torque.
As far as greasing the threads, any good grease will do. No matter what thread it is, always put a film of grease on it.

 

[Ian H]

Don't use your longest spanner (or hex key) - keep that one for undoing them again.

 

[Vapin' Joe]

You're overthinking this. A torque wrench is needed for certain jobs, but attaching a pedal to a crank? Just a firm nip with a spanner or hex key and you'll be fine.

 

[Mike Ayling]

You're overthinking this. A torque wrench is needed for certain jobs, but attaching a pedal to a crank? Just a firm nip with a spanner or hex key and you'll be fine.

Reminds me of
if the only tool you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail!

 

[mickle]

Grease the threads.

Install them with an Allen key.

If you want to get really anal about it fit some pedal washers.

 

[Drago]

What Mickle says. And if your hands aren't strong enough to nip it up tight with an allen key you can use the torque wrench as a hammer to get a few more degrees on there.

 

[Dan Lotus]

I never do mine up that tight, as know the problems with trying to get the bugger$ off at a future date - I also pop a bit of grease on the threads before fitting.

I just nip them up by hand, and at any rate, the direction your pedalling in will tighten up both sides if it is going to do anything at all.

I've never had a single pedal come loose across multiple bikes, not just mine.

 

[C R]

What Mickle says. And if your hands aren't strong enough to nip it up tight with an allen key you can use the torque wrench as a hammer to get a few more degrees on there.

That's where I've been wrong all along. I was using the allen key to hammer the torque wrench.

 

[laurentian]

I never do mine up that tight, as know the problems with trying to get the bugger$ off at a future date - I also pop a bit of grease on the threads before fitting.

I just nip them up by hand, and at any rate, the direction your pedalling in will tighten up both sides if it is going to do anything at all.

I've never had a single pedal come loose across multiple bikes, not just mine.

This

 

[rogerzilla]

The reason this torque is given (Park Tool quote 360 in-lb, which is about 45Nm again; Look quote 40Nm for Keo, 25Nm for some others) is because a normal allen key is not enough. In the old days we used an open-ended pedal spanner about a foot long, and this was sufficient. Pedals don't miraculously need less torque because the spanner flats have been phased out.

You don't NEED a torque wrench but you should be using an 8mm hex bit on a ratchet driver or similar.