Advice on fitting Shimano SPD-SL pedals

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Happy_Days

Well-Known Member
I'd appreciate your advice on screwing and lubrication :smile:

What torque setting would you suggest for fitting SPD-SL pedals? Shimano states 35-55 Nm, but I heard that may be too tight in practice. And before you say "hand-tighten," why pass up the chance to use my Big Boy Torque Wrench? :biggrin:

Regarding greasing them, would you choose Shimano Anti-Seize or copper grease?
 

Drago

Legendary Member
Location
The Urban Fringe
No one knows Shimano products better than Shimano,,so follow their advice. Id be happy using copper grease, but if you have the Shimano stuff then why not?
 

rogerzilla

Squire
45Nm, yes. Precession keeps them tight but shouldn't be relied upon to tighten them in the first place. Anti-seize is fine on the threads. They'll still be pigs to remove.
 

Drago

Legendary Member
Location
The Urban Fringe
What Mickle says. And if your hands aren't strong enough to nip it up tight with an allen key you can use the torque wrench as a hammer to get a few more degrees on there.
 

Dan Lotus

Veteran
I never do mine up that tight, as know the problems with trying to get the bugger$ off at a future date - I also pop a bit of grease on the threads before fitting.

I just nip them up by hand, and at any rate, the direction your pedalling in will tighten up both sides if it is going to do anything at all.

I've never had a single pedal come loose across multiple bikes, not just mine.
 

laurentian

Senior Member
I never do mine up that tight, as know the problems with trying to get the bugger$ off at a future date - I also pop a bit of grease on the threads before fitting.

I just nip them up by hand, and at any rate, the direction your pedalling in will tighten up both sides if it is going to do anything at all.

I've never had a single pedal come loose across multiple bikes, not just mine.

This
 

rogerzilla

Squire
The reason this torque is given (Park Tool quote 360 in-lb, which is about 45Nm again; Look quote 40Nm for Keo, 25Nm for some others) is because a normal allen key is not enough. In the old days we used an open-ended pedal spanner about a foot long, and this was sufficient. Pedals don't miraculously need less torque because the spanner flats have been phased out.

You don't NEED a torque wrench but you should be using an 8mm hex bit on a ratchet driver or similar.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
The reason why Shimano gives this torque figure is because to do so is good practice (giving a figure, any figure) and because otherwise people/LBSs may ask and need answering.
I don't know what's meant by a "normal allen key" but whether the higher end SPD-SLs or lower (with flats) just dab of grease and screw them in tight (and a 4" allen key will be fine; obv a pedal spanner is longer). Like Dan says "I've never had a single pedal come loose across multiple bikes, not just mine." There is no mechanism which generates an 'undoing' force on pedals (quite the reverse): that's the reason the left hand pedal has a LH thread: to avoid the 'undoing' mechanical precessional effect.
 

Drago

Legendary Member
Location
The Urban Fringe
I don't know what's meant by a "normal allen key"

A typical smallish right angled tool for use one handed. As opposed to socket Allen keys, extended handle Allen keys, Allen drivers, Allen T Keys, Dave Allen, Alan Partridge, etc.

Walk into a shop and ask for a "normal Allen key" and thats what youll be given 99 out of 100 times.
 
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