Altura Night Vision Evo- Reproof/Tumble Dry?

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GJT

Über Member
I've just washed this with non bio gel and then reproofed with Grangers 30c Proofer.
The jacket says do not tumble dry, so have had it on the line for a few hrs, The Proofer says it can be line dried or tumble dried.
Although it's not bone dry yet, I ran some water down the sleeve and it spread, rather than beading off.
Does anyone know if it will bead off when jacket is fully dry, or has anyone put theirs in the dryer to improve the proofing?
I don't want to risk tumble drying if it really shouldn't be done
 
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GJT

Über Member
I have had this hanging above a wall heater at work all day, and it still doesn't bead very well at all.
I'm going to iron it with a tea towel over it and see if that improves it. The Grangers 30c Proofer is sold as being a line dry product, and is the one recommended so shouldn't have to be faffing about doing this.
Has anyone used anything better, that doesn't require tumble drying? Or has anyone tumble dried a jacket with no detriment, despite label saying not to?
 

PeteXXX

Cake or ice cream? The choice is endless ...
Location
Hamtun
Is it possible that the original 'do not tumble dry' is because it might affect the manufacturers original waterproofing?
Using your new re-proofer 'tumbledried in' could be safe.
 

mcshroom

Bionic Subsonic
I use a hair drier on stuff I reproof. It works, but best bit is if you kneel on the hem and blow the air in one arm it blows up like a bouncy castle :biggrin:

Tumble drier on a low setting would probably work as well, but I don't have one to try.
 
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GJT

Über Member
nikwax wash in direct is far better

I just ordered that last night, along with Tech Wash. I'm hoping that will work.
I'm now wondering if the Fairy non bio gel has affected it. I know some people use soap flakes like Lux, but I'm sure I read somewhere that they weren't suitable for front loading washing machines
 
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GJT

Über Member
Is it possible that the original 'do not tumble dry' is because it might affect the manufacturers original waterproofing?
Using your new re-proofer 'tumbledried in' could be safe.

Mmm, you could be right there. I ordered some Nikwax last night, so will try that and if still not right, will use tumble dryer as last resort
 

subaqua

What’s the point
Location
Leytonstone
I just ordered that last night, along with Tech Wash. I'm hoping that will work.
I'm now wondering if the Fairy non bio gel has affected it. I know some people use soap flakes like Lux, but I'm sure I read somewhere that they weren't suitable for front loading washing machines

don't use washing powder. of any sort. if you do then wash the coat with just water then the techwash and then attempt the waterproofer.

some people say that you shouldn't ever use washing powder or soap flakes but the tech wash alone doesn't cut it on London Grime in the winter. I get the jacket clean then wash the residues out . yes it uses more water but I am worth it.
 
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GJT

Über Member
don't use washing powder. of any sort. if you do then wash the coat with just water then the techwash and then attempt the waterproofer.

some people say that you shouldn't ever use washing powder or soap flakes but the tech wash alone doesn't cut it on London Grime in the winter. I get the jacket clean then wash the residues out . yes it uses more water but I am worth it.
As I haven't worn the jacket since my attempt at proofing it, should I still use the Tech Wash first, or just use the Tech Direct? Maybe best to use the Wash first as it may prepare the jacket for proofing eh?
 
As I haven't worn the jacket since my attempt at proofing it, should I still use the Tech Wash first, or just use the Tech Direct? Maybe best to use the Wash first as it may prepare the jacket for proofing eh?
you will need to wash it with the tech wash to get the residual soap (minute amounts) washed out of the garment. If you want to be doubly sure, washing machine should be run on a 'no washing powder/gel' cycle first, but I don't normally go that far.

As stated above, tech wash alone does not get all the grime out ime as well. So I was our waterproofs in normal non-bio, then in tech wash and then the tech wash in re-proofer so 3 washes in all, then the go in the tumble drier on cool or get hung up to dry (this one is simply time dependant and if they are needed asap).

To date, this has been the cheapest source for both http://www.tesco.com/direct/nikwax-...ash-in-waterproofing-2-x-1-litre/215-7604.prd 2 * 1L of each for £15 delivered to a Tesco's for your collection.
 
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GJT

Über Member
Thanks SatNav- this forum is great for advice. I've just had an email from Technical Manager at Grangers, who explained my problem was washing it with detergent first (even though it was non bio) They still have wetting agents, perfumes and optical brightening agents, which will all stop the proofing molecules from binding to the jacket.
Why does the jacket label and Zyro Customer Services say use non bio then?!!

Wish I'd seen your post earlier as I could have cancelled my order of Nikwax 2 x 300ml of each for £10.44:angry:

Do you think I could do 2 jackets and 1 pair of trousers in one go in the machine, or is that pushing it? If so, how much should I use? 200ml?
 
@GJT it is usually 2 garments max per wash, but they it is designed for hiking/mountaineering jackets and bulkier trousers - I prefer to stick with the 2 per wash though tbh.
The instructions are on the packet... Its 150ml for max 2 garments for the tech wash (hard water areas, soft water areas are 100ml). the wash-in TX direct is 100ml per garment - max 2 garments at a time.
 
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GJT

Über Member
Thanks- will do 2 jackets together, as one is quite lightweight and then the trousers seperately.

One last thing for the future.... I reckon a 1litre would last me 3 years at least- is there a time limit to use once open?
 
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