Aluminium forks vs Carbon forks

[petmcgratt]

Can anyone tell me the average weights of aluminium and carbon forks. Thinking of the the carbon forsk with an aluminium steerer rather than full carbon forks and steerer.

thanks
peter

 

[accountantpete]

Weight Weenies is the usual source of info re weights of components - the forks section can be seen here

http://weightweenies.starbike.com/listings/components.php?type=rigidforks

At a guess the average saving of a full carbon would be circa 200g

 

[AlanW]

Never mind the weight, its the shock absorbent features that are better on carbon that are more appealing.

 

[petmcgratt]

If I go carbon, do I go straight forks or curved forks

 

[HJ]

Never mind the weight, its the shock absorbent features that are better on carbon that are more appealing.

+1

 

[alecstilleyedye]

If I go carbon, do I go straight forks or curved forks

straight, unless on a tourer…

 

[bonj2]

Can anyone tell me the average weights of aluminium and carbon forks. Thinking of the the carbon forsk with an aluminium steerer rather than full carbon forks and steerer.

thanks
peter

rough figures - aluminium ones that my scott came with, ~800g, full carbon ones that i replaced them with, 450g. That was quite light, though - most are around 550g/up to 600g. Don't take those to be a representative average, that's just what mine were.

 

[Ian H]

I'd never trust Ali forks. if they're rigid enough to be safe, they're too rigid to be comfortable. If they're springy enough to be comfortable, they'll snap.

 

[accountantpete]

If I go carbon, do I go straight forks or curved forks

If you hit the wheel with your foot when turning a curved pair will carry the wheel away and may prevent this happening.If this doesn't bother you go straight (forks wise!).

 

[andrew_s]

Straight or curved makes no difference whatsoever to foot clearance. The wheel hub is in the same place: the only difference is whether the fork goes in a straight line between crown and hub, or a curved one.

On material, I know a number of people who consider forks with aluminium steerer tubes to be disposable items, to be replaced every 2 or 3 years before they fail through fatigue. They generally fail at the base of the steerer where it joins to the crown, and the consequences can be instant and nasty.
Steel forks generally fail more slowly, and you'd normally have steering or headset adjustment problems first. I know someone who rode back from Bristol to Cheltenham with his forks gradually bending forwards at the crown, until he eventually had to stop riding when the pedals hit the ground at the bottom of the stroke. He was in walking distance by then.

 

[dan_bo]

Cannondale's alloy 'pepperoni' forks were the business.

 

[Randochap]

Aluminum forks are of the devil.

Get curved carbon. I have them on 2 bikes. Very nice. Be sure you get a fork with correct rake. Also decide if you need eyelets on the dropouts.

 

[petmcgratt]

I have come across two pairs of carbon forks. The first pair has carbon forks and carbon steerer. Are these more difficult to replace than carbon fork/alloy steerer or can I just swap my alu forks without having to get any more fitting accessories. I thought i read somewhere that you had to do something else when you were fitting a carbon steerer??

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320434178044&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

it also appears that these ITM carbon forks retailed at £185 but are a 2006 model.

This pair below is carbon forks with alloy steerer

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170412006950&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

The prices are very reasonable but what do others think. I don't want to spend a fortune on the forks either.

thanks
peter

 

[andrew_s]

I thought i read somewhere that you had to do something else when you were fitting a carbon steerer??

You can't use a star nut with a carbon steerer - you should use a bung instead