Always struggling...
- Thread starter Panter
- Start date
Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
KneesUp
Guru
I'd say if it doesn't feel right, it isn't right - your own joints and muscles are a better guide than what is technically 'correct'
You may be able to get a longer seat-post that will allow you to raise it, if your current one is on the limit.
Hicky
Guru
Ok, either watch youtube for tips on how to fix/setup the bike or take it to a bike shop and get them to service it as it sounds borked.
Watch youtube for bike setup tips ie saddle.....all this aside you could be a huge geezer who's fitness is shocking. Nothing wrong with that as you are making efforts to change it so I applaud you....ps, fix the bike and keep turning the pedals.
Watch youtube for bike setup tips ie saddle.....all this aside you could be a huge geezer who's fitness is shocking. Nothing wrong with that as you are making efforts to change it so I applaud you....ps, fix the bike and keep turning the pedals.
OP
OP
Panter
Just call me Chris...
- Location
- Sittingbourne, Kent
Many thanks all, I thought I knew about saddle height, just goes to show! I'll see how much easier it is on the roadie tomorrow.
The brakes area a bit of a pain, they're Avid Juicey Fives. THey could really do with a stripdown and rebuild, but I don't have the bleed kit to do that. I can just take the (identical) set from the full susser though.
The brakes area a bit of a pain, they're Avid Juicey Fives. THey could really do with a stripdown and rebuild, but I don't have the bleed kit to do that. I can just take the (identical) set from the full susser though.
Take the brakes off the bike will be faster then.....
I never used brakes as a kid, low saddle and dragged my feet along the floor. Always used to work fine. Honest.
byegad
Legendary Member
- Location
- NE England
Saddle height is right when it is set to approximately the following.
1. Sit on saddle with hands in normal riding position, leaning against a wall or with someone holding you upright.
2. Put your heel on the pedal that is fully down and you should be able to lock your knee.
3. If you can't, the saddle is too low.
4. Check the other leg in the same manner.
This will be pretty much correct, but if you are not happy try a little higher and then a little lower.
1. Sit on saddle with hands in normal riding position, leaning against a wall or with someone holding you upright.
2. Put your heel on the pedal that is fully down and you should be able to lock your knee.
3. If you can't, the saddle is too low.
4. Check the other leg in the same manner.
This will be pretty much correct, but if you are not happy try a little higher and then a little lower.
OP
OP
Panter
Just call me Chris...
- Location
- Sittingbourne, Kent
Thanks all, well, tried the roadie this morning.
Bit wobbly tbh, it's been a long time!
But, 3 minutes faster than the MTB and it felt "better."
Bit hard to explain this one, but my heart rate felt higher and I was certainly puffing and panting. This is something I've not had on the MTB which is why I wondered if there was something wrong with me, despite being exhausted and really pushing hard, my heart rate always felt low and my breathing was relatively easy.
So, in a way it was more tiring, but tiring in a good way. Although I feel that I've had a workout, my legs aren't stiff and sore and I didn't get the feeling that I'd have to jack in cycle commuting and go back to the car.
I think that I was getting too much of a resistance workout on the MTB, and not enough cardio. Still doesn't quite make sense as when I do upper body resistance workouts, my hear rate goes through the roof but there's definitely a difference in the way I felt riding the roadie in this morning.
Fairly sure you're all correct, this is a problem with the bike. I'll try and get the brakes and derailleur sorted out this week, if not then I'll put it in the shop to be done.
It would be nice to stick with the roadie, but I'm fairly sure I'm going to end up pushing it for a mile or so on the way back as part of my preferred route is so rough that I'm genuinely concerned that the road bike will be damaged if I ride it.
Bit wobbly tbh, it's been a long time!
But, 3 minutes faster than the MTB and it felt "better."
Bit hard to explain this one, but my heart rate felt higher and I was certainly puffing and panting. This is something I've not had on the MTB which is why I wondered if there was something wrong with me, despite being exhausted and really pushing hard, my heart rate always felt low and my breathing was relatively easy.
So, in a way it was more tiring, but tiring in a good way. Although I feel that I've had a workout, my legs aren't stiff and sore and I didn't get the feeling that I'd have to jack in cycle commuting and go back to the car.
I think that I was getting too much of a resistance workout on the MTB, and not enough cardio. Still doesn't quite make sense as when I do upper body resistance workouts, my hear rate goes through the roof but there's definitely a difference in the way I felt riding the roadie in this morning.
Fairly sure you're all correct, this is a problem with the bike. I'll try and get the brakes and derailleur sorted out this week, if not then I'll put it in the shop to be done.
It would be nice to stick with the roadie, but I'm fairly sure I'm going to end up pushing it for a mile or so on the way back as part of my preferred route is so rough that I'm genuinely concerned that the road bike will be damaged if I ride it.
Road bikes are stronger then one would think. I doubt you would do any damage. But get some good puncture protection tyres, Marathon Plus' if they will fit the frame or Spesh Armadillos.
This pretty much. Alternatively find a slightly longer route that you also like which lets you stick to the road. If it means an extra mile or so, well, you've got 3 extra minutes to play with now :P
OP
OP
Panter
Just call me Chris...
- Location
- Sittingbourne, Kent
Thanks Ian, it is a tough old bike and is running M+ tyres.
Last time I used it regularly was for my old commutes through some pretty rough roads, and even a few hundred yards of unmade road which was fine.
The new route takes me along a mile or two or concrete, it's a private road and has been smashed up by HGV traffic so is a real mess and pretty tough going on the MTB even with the forks unlocked. Even when I take the car down there it's impossible to get into double figures.
I will try riding it gently, but if it's too much, I'll just push it.
OP
OP
Panter
Just call me Chris...
- Location
- Sittingbourne, Kent
There are quite a few alternative routes, on much smoother tarmac! I just like this one because it gets me down by the water, there is virtually no traffic and I can check the boat on the way home
dan_bo
How much does it cost to Oldham?
I struggle with 'freshness' on the bike when I get an extended block of commuting in.
If find it helps to stretch and mix the rides up a bit- some longer and slower extensions, some shorter sprinty jobs. Taking the dog out of an evening keeps things loose as well.
If find it helps to stretch and mix the rides up a bit- some longer and slower extensions, some shorter sprinty jobs. Taking the dog out of an evening keeps things loose as well.
dan_bo
How much does it cost to Oldham?
Other than that, take an hour to sort your bloody bike out.
OP
OP
Panter
Just call me Chris...
- Location
- Sittingbourne, Kent
I did! I spent the whole afternoon on the sodding thing a couple of weeks ago. Managed to do all the bearings, and adjusted the rear wheel to stop that rubbing on the disk, but couldn't resolve the front brake issue. Also forgot all about the front derailleur until I was wheezing into the inevitable headwind on the Monday morning!
I solemnly promise to get it sorted before using it again though...