Anyone know anything about trailer wheel bearings?

[KneesUp]

I don't think we can fit everything in the car for our upcoming camping trip - by which I mean we might fit all the essentials in, but there is no chance of fitting bikes in too.

I have a trailer, which I bought last year for no other reason than it was a bargain on the 'for sale' board at my local supermarket. It is, I guess, 30 years old. It was kept in a garage, and has been well looked after - the wood is varnished and in good condition, and the metalwork has been painted in hammerite. The people I bought it off said they hadn't used it for a long time.

If I use it I will definitely get new tyres, but would you be inclined to grease the bearings? It doesn't seem that hard to do, but I don't really have much time to do it in, and if either of them are 'stuck' it will be a real pain. Do you think it would be enough to pump some grease in via the nipple, or am I really best off stripping them down?

I'd be towing it on a roughly 400 mile round trip, and it won't be heavily loaded - I'd put the camping stuff in it and the bikes in the car.

Any advice much appreciated. My total experience of trailers is towing this one two miles from where I bought it to the place I store it.

 

[tyred]

I would imagine it is built using the front wheel stubs from a RWD car of the period so I would expect a simple two taper roller bearing setup. If there is a grease nipple present, it must be very old indeed. Lift it up and spin the wheels, check for free play and excessive rumbly noises. If it all checks out okay, pump some fresh grease in.

Otherwise, or if you are so inclined, pop of the bearing cap (some very old ones may thread on but most are just pressed in), remove the split pin and unscrew the nut, pull of the keyed washer, remove the small outer bearing, pull the hub off which will remove the inner bearing with it, wash them in diesel and check for visible wear or pitting on the races or rollers. If it looks okay, rebuild it with fresh grease but be careful not to over-tighten, most of these bearings went together with a very slight amount of play. I used to have this argument with the MOT man every year with the rear bearings on a MK1 Golf which VW say should have some free play but the powers that be used to try and make me tighten them.

For a trailer, unless the bearings are on the point of total collapse, they should be fine if well lubed for light loads at modest speed.

 

[KEEF]

As above for your own peace of mind

 

[classic33]

If fitted with a brake, make certain it actually releases.
It might make you think the bearings have siezed.

 

[KneesUp]

It doesn't have a brake, it's just a little 5x3 wooden and metal thing. The bearings felt warmer than the rest of it after I towed it a few miles, but not hot - just like a cup of tea you'd made and forgotten about for 40 minutes warm. Is that normal?

 

[Over The Hill]

Tyred covers it. Just add to check when the wheel is off the ground that it turns easily and does not have play in it.

Tyres are daftly expensive for trailers and I found it cheaper to buy a wheel and tyre together on ebay (new ones). While you are at it, an option could be to replace the whole running gear - if it is of the type (most are) that fit onto the frame of the trailer with 6 or 8 bolts on an oblong plate then it may be a fairly cheap and easy option.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350Kg-tra...ailers_Transporters_Parts&hash=item486b9d8d38
£130 and it is all like new.
I was quoted £50 each for tyres.

 

[mr messy]

Chances are it's a rear Mini hub and bearing. what size are the wheels?

 

[KneesUp]

They're 8 inch I think. I keep the wheels in the toilet at work for security - I'll go and check when I get chance.

 

[KneesUp]

Just checked - the wheels are 8 inch. Also I found a picture I took of the hub on my phone.