Balkans East - West

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flatflr

Guru
Location
Just over here
After doing my longest tour to date this year from Marseille to Near Swindon via Ouistreham over three weeks in June i've started thinking about my 2024 tour. I was thinking to cross the Balkans from Burgas, Bulgaria to Ljubljana, Slovenia (locations chosen due to flights availability and what I thought would make an interesting trip).

I was wondering if anybody had done anything similar or had any experience of cycling off the main routes in Bulgaria, Serbia, Croatia and Slovenia?

Any help would be appreciated.
 
After doing my longest tour to date this year from Marseille to Near Swindon via Ouistreham over three weeks in June i've started thinking about my 2024 tour. I was thinking to cross the Balkans from Burgas, Bulgaria to Ljubljana, Slovenia (locations chosen due to flights availability and what I thought would make an interesting trip).

I was wondering if anybody had done anything similar or had any experience of cycling off the main routes in Bulgaria, Serbia, Croatia and Slovenia?

Any help would be appreciated.

My late SO was Slovenian and I have spent a considerable amount of time there, some of it on a bike. The roads are good, the traffic off the main roads is light and the people are friendly. In the main, and outside of the city centres, tourist areas, and major through highways, drivers are considerate.

Older people in rural areas will likely not speak English - although they may know some German - but most younger ones will know some, at least. As always, knowing just a few words in such a minority language can open many doors. The health service is good and efficient although I hope you won't need it.

Of course in places it is seriously mountainous so there's that ... but cycling of all sorts is popular. There are lots of small roads and tracks you can follow and the mapping system is pretty good - not quite up to OS or IGN standards, but very little is. Many routes that in in other parts of Alpine Europe would probably be gravel or cart tracks, are often nicely surfaced in Slovenia. If you are riding along a route that seems to be going in the right direction, but you end up in someone's farmyard at a dead- end, it's very unlikely that you'll get a hostile reception - more likely an invitation to sample wine or schnapps, followed by an explanation about how to cut across Josip's land to reach Bruno's farm from where you can take the track past Alek's place to get back onto the road you need ...

There are heaps of themed, planned and signed routes which can be followed, if that's the sort of thing you like - my late SO was involved with setting some of them up in the late 1990s/early 2000s. Here's the Drava cycling route and in the Karavanke region there's a 5km cycling route underground from one valley to the next one along the tunnels of old lead mines under a mountain. Not sure that one's open to the public, though - possibly only on guided tours! The only drawback of Slovenia is that it's considerably more expensive than many of its eastern and southern neighbours.

Croatia on the back roads is - at least in its northern parts - quite similar to Slovenia.

If you want more information, I'll try to help.
 
A minor point .. Slovenia is not part of the Balkans.

Hmmm. By many definitions it is - or at least part of it is.

My SO liked to uphold the term - reclaim it, some would say - and argue in its favour (somewhat tongue-in-cheek) as there is no widely-accepted delineation or definition of the boundaries of either 'the Balkans' or of 'South East Europe' which seems to be the preferred name for the general region by some European bodies. The latter term is not without its opponents either, though.
 

bluenotebob

Veteran
Location
France
By many definitions it is - or at least part of it is.

Oh, really?

The Kolpa river is the geographical western edge of the Balkans (that is the "widely accepted" definition of the Balkan boundary) and it is also the border between Slovenia and Croatia. I don't believe that any part of Slovenia lies to the east of the Kolpa .. but perhaps there may be one or two small villages.

I lived in Ljubljana for 5 years and met hundreds of Slovenes in that time - none of them 'looked' eastwards or identified with that direction. That was one of the main reasons for their enthusiasm to join the EU. I never met anyone who thought of themselves as a Balkan .. or a (former) Yugoslav.

When I lived there it was considered to be part of 'Central Europe' - like Austria, the Czech Republic and Poland - and certainly not 'South East Europe'.
 

Gillstay

Über Member
I cycled around Slovenia a few years ago and found people amiable and helpful. One hotel the lady was horrible, another the owner and Chef almost joined us for dinner as it was out of season and gave us a massive meal. Roads were good, but one evening we miss judged the next place to stop and there was no food. That was hard being so hungry after a day of mountain passes. Great views interesting geology and wildlife, don't cycle into the bears. They get angry.
 

robjh

Legendary Member
Between 2007 and 2009 I rode three tours in that area, including one starting at Burgas and another ending at Ljubljana. It's a fascinating area and worth reading up about some of the history before you go. I found no particular difficulties - it helps to be fairly self-sufficient and resourceful as you will be often away from main tourist routes, but I suspect that with internet bookings and smartphones things may be a bit easier now. I wild camped at times (except in Bosnia where I worried about uncleared landmines), and rode along the occasional gravel road in the mountains, but the scenery was great, and the places, people and languages a source of constant interest. I'd love to find the time to go back for more.
 
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