BB7s to Hope V-Twin?

[Red Light]

Can't you use the old 'loosen the caliper mounting bolts, squeeze and hold brake leaver, tighten caliper mounting bolts' trick to do this in one easy step?

No, doesn't work because both brake pads can move meaning you don't end up centred. It only really works for systems where one brake pad is fixed.

 

[MacB]

No, doesn't work because both brake pads can move meaning you don't end up centred. It only really works for systems where one brake pad is fixed.

I think you have that back to front

 

[Red Light]

I think you have that back to front

Explain?

 

[Howard]

It works for brakes where both pads move (i.e. hydraulic) but not brakes where one pad is fixed (i.e. cable pulls that aren't dual bangers).

You can kludge it to work with a fixed RHS pad by adjusting the RHS pad in a few clicks before pulling off the trick, then backing the pad out again by the same amount of clicks.

 

[MacB]

Explain?

Well, as you put it so nicely....the centering method for hydraulics is to loosen the mounting bolts, actuate the brake and then tighten the bolts while keeping the brake actuated. Because both pads are pushed in equally this will centre the caliper allowing maximum clearance both sides. This assumes that the pads are moving reely and retracting fully and the caliper mount is true as is the rotor.

With cable actuated, and I've only personally done the BB7, then you have one fixed pad and one that moves. So you set the relationship of rotor to fixed pad, with BB7 that's recommended as off centre. Mine have the rotor closer to the fixed side of the caliper and then the moving pad actuates the brake more progressively and with less rotor bend.

 

[Red Light]

Well, as you put it so nicely....the centering method for hydraulics is to loosen the mounting bolts, actuate the brake and then tighten the bolts while keeping the brake actuated. Because both pads are pushed in equally this will centre the caliper allowing maximum clearance both sides. This assumes that the pads are moving reely and retracting fully and the caliper mount is true as is the rotor.

With cable actuated, and I've only personally done the BB7, then you have one fixed pad and one that moves. So you set the relationship of rotor to fixed pad, with BB7 that's recommended as off centre. Mine have the rotor closer to the fixed side of the caliper and then the moving pad actuates the brake more progressively and with less rotor bend.

Exactly. With the BB7s you wind in the fixed pad a bit, clamp it with the moving pad, tighten the bolts and then wind the fixed pad out again to get the necessary clearance. On the hydraulics both pads can move so when you clamp the rotor with the pads the pads could be anywhere relative to the caliper body and will move about if you put any pressure on the caliper body. When you release the pads they may or may not have enough distance to retract to give clearance. Hope cover it in a video on their website - http://blip.tv/play/gpkd4JwkAA. The first screen says "You can't centralise a caliper correctly by loosening the bolts, pumping the lever and retightening the bolts"

But then perhaps Hope, like me, don't know what they are talking about. But thank you anyway for now editing that assertion out of your post above.

 

[MacB]

Exactly. With the BB7s you wind in the fixed pad a bit, clamp it with the moving pad, tighten the bolts and then wind the fixed pad out again to get the necessary clearance. On the hydraulics both pads can move so when you clamp the rotor with the pads the pads could be anywhere relative to the caliper body and will move about if you put any pressure on the caliper body. When you release the pads they may or may not have enough distance to retract to give clearance. Hope cover it in a video on their website - http://blip.tv/play/gpkd4JwkAA. The first screen says "You can't centralise a caliper correctly by loosening the bolts, pumping the lever and retightening the bolts"

But then perhaps Hope, like me, don't know what they are talking about. But thank you anyway for now editing that assertion out of your post above.

???...nah stuff it, figure it out for yourself

 

[benb]

Exactly. With the BB7s you wind in the fixed pad a bit, clamp it with the moving pad, tighten the bolts and then wind the fixed pad out again to get the necessary clearance. On the hydraulics both pads can move so when you clamp the rotor with the pads the pads could be anywhere relative to the caliper body and will move about if you put any pressure on the caliper body. When you release the pads they may or may not have enough distance to retract to give clearance. Hope cover it in a video on their website - http://blip.tv/play/gpkd4JwkAA. The first screen says "You can't centralise a caliper correctly by loosening the bolts, pumping the lever and retightening the bolts"

But then perhaps Hope, like me, don't know what they are talking about. But thank you anyway for now editing that assertion out of your post above.

All I can say is that loosening the callipers, hitting the brakes, then tightening the callipers, has always worked perfectly on my hydraulic discs on my hybrid.

 

[Alun]

All I can say is that loosening the callipers, hitting the brakes, then tightening the callipers, has always worked perfectly on my hydraulic discs on my hybrid.

Yup, for me too!
It also squares the caliper up, so that the pads aren't toed in or out.

 

[Red Light]

All I can say is that loosening the callipers, hitting the brakes, then tightening the callipers, has always worked perfectly on my hydraulic discs on my hybrid.

Are they single or dual piston hydraulics? Some work like the BB7s with one pad fixed so it would work. But where both pads are floating unless you get lucky it will not centralise the disk in the caliper.

 

[Howard]

Yeah that's worked for me too, but having viewed the Hope video I can see how in certain situations it will yield less than perfect results, and if you've paid top dollar for Hope brakes, you should spend the time setting them up to be spot on.

 

[benb]

Are they single or dual piston hydraulics? Some work like the BB7s with one pad fixed so it would work. But where both pads are floating unless you get lucky it will not centralise the disk in the caliper.

Not sure. I'm not saying you're wrong, just that it's how I've always adjusted my brakes (with no problems) and as far as I know it's standard advice for MTB type hydraulic brakes.

 

[NormanD]

So what is your honest opinion on the hope brakes? I was looking at these as an upgrade option to my Boardman Team CX. I've been very pleased with the bog standard BB5's (only adjusted once since I bought the bike) and are now due for pad replacement.

I have a spare Marin CX frame I was looking to build into a winter hack and instead of using the Hope on them, might just switch the BB5's to this frame instead and add the hope to the Boardman.

Ask before you buy is my motto