Best pliers/tool for gear cable?

[Fastpedaller]

Fingers to pull, then I just press the mech inwards as I tighten up the cable.

That's my method as well. Another method (if there's a barrel adjuster) is to set it to its 'most closed' position, pull the cable with fingers and tighten the fixing - that way you've then got a bit of adjustment either way with the barrel adjuster. No need for 'cable - squashing' tools.

 

[richardfm]

Why do you need anything other than your fingers to grip the cable, especially if it has a cable end on it?

The only time I have ever needed help to grip the cable is if someone has cut the cable too short to allow enough purchase, and I certainly don't have a strong grip?

Exactly what I was thinking.

 

[presta]

So it's not just me then, I don't see the need for pliers and special tools either.

Set the lever and adjusters to let all the cable out, put the derailleur into the corresponding position with the limit screw, then hold the cable with your fingers. There's no great tension needed because there's plenty of range on the adjuster to finalise it afterwards.

 

[Milzy]

This is why I love this forum. For 20 years I’ve been pulling it very tight thinking it’s for the best.

 

[MontyVeda]

So it's not just me then, I don't see the need for pliers and special tools either.
...

the mawl grip is a third hand. It holds the cable whilst I'm looking for my 10mm spanner.

 

[Once a Wheeler]

Probably a counsel of perfection but, if you pull the cable through by hand and add some solder to the 5 cm or so where you cut it, you can save yourself hours of pricky-fingered fiddling when something goes wrong at the road side and the cable stays firmly unfrayed and easy to re-thread.

 

[Punkawallah]

Like the handlebar tube for instance 🤔

As long as it’s going downward, yes.

 

[Ajax Bay]

pulling it very tight thinking it’s for the best.

Pulling it tight is best, by arm strength with or without grip assistance. Any pliers are gripping a section of the cable which will be beyond the clamping bolt and subject to zero tension once cable clamped.

 

[Milzy]

Probably a counsel of perfection but, if you pull the cable through by hand and add some solder to the 5 cm or so where you cut it, you can save yourself hours of pricky-fingered fiddling when something goes wrong at the road side and the cable stays firmly unfrayed and easy to re-thread.

When I eventually buy a TIG welding inverter I’ll fuse the ends with that.

 

[presta]

Probably a counsel of perfection but, if you pull the cable through by hand and add some solder to the 5 cm or so where you cut it, you can save yourself hours of pricky-fingered fiddling when something goes wrong at the road side and the cable stays firmly unfrayed and easy to re-thread.

The advantage of having a 64cm frame is that you don't need to cut the weld off the end of the new cable.

 

[Gillstay]

I always pull the cable snug before tightening the bolt with forceps. They do the job perfectly. Curved ones of course.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Your pliers are not just superfluous to the task. You're likely putting too much tension on the cable and probably damaging it.
The barrel adjuster is the mechanism for setting the correct cable tension.

Stumbled (not looking, was shared on @Mazz 's thread) on this Park Tools video: exactly how I use pliers for this task (though bottom pull not top pull). Road bikes often don't have barrel adjusters in the FD cable line.

Not iaw manufacturer's instructions, I guess.