Best Tyres?

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My favourites are Mitchelin tyres, I'm running Pro 4 SC on my good bike, Powers on my TT bike and Pro 4 Endurance on the commuter. I used to prefer contis but after a series of premature side wall failures I switched to Mitchelin and I'm glad as to grip/roll there's not much in it (that I can notice anyway) but what I do notice the Mitchelin are a lot better on wear/ longevity and there slightly cheaper in the first place. If I was to choose just one out of my Mitchelin tyres, I'd choose the Pro 4 Endurance due to their robustness with no noticeable loss of grip or roll penalty.
 

mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
In 1) I assume you are dealing with dry metaled roads here. If the conditions are slippy, surely too sharp an application of the front brake will result in a front wheel 'skid' (not pleasant). MTB maniacs do this all the time but stay mostly just on the right side of the skid/no skid loss of control threshold.
In 2) (assume 'right' = 'rear') the rear wheel only lifts if you mostly apply braking effect to the front, and don't sit back when applying hard rear brake. Anyone can get their rear wheel to stay on the ground and skid, even in the grippiest of conditions (not good for the tyre, mind).
Have I failed to understand?
No, I think you're bang on. I've had both wheels skid even on a dry road when I've attempted a sharp stop while carrying significant weight on the rear rack. I stayed upright though :thumbsup:

And thirdly, it seems good to use the rear brake more when there's a trailer hitched, as the trailer seems to try to help lift the back wheel when you overuse the front brake.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
the trailer seems to try to help lift the back wheel when you overuse the front brake.
I guess it depends on where the trailer is attached to: rear drop out level or higher. Physics suggests that the trailer, being decelerated by its connection to the bike and supported by its wheels against gravity, will exert an opposite force on the bike. If we assume the centre of gravity of the trailer is below the higher fixing position then the net effect on the rear of the bike will be the 'lifting' you've experienced when braking - doesn't matter which brake used (the trailer can't tell) but it may be more apparent to you, if you can discriminate between lifting caused in the normal way by hard use of the front brake and the 'trailer effect'. I would have thought that this effect was minimal if the trailer was attached at the rear drop out level. Flapping away again, I fear :rolleyes:
 

mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
I would have thought that this effect was minimal if the trailer was attached at the rear drop out level.
You may be right - mine's a seatpost hitch because it doubles as a barrow - but the CoG of an axle-hitch trailer will be below the hitch for most loads on most trailers too because they're not very high.

I'm reminded of the breakdancing caravan signs that used to be on motorways, but I can't find a picture of one now - anyone else remember them?
 

overmind

My other bike is a Pinarello
I have been very happy with Schwalbe Delta Cruiser and Schwalbe Marathon tyres. I've never had a puncture with the Schwalbe Marathon, so far :-)
 
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Svendo

Guru
Location
Walsden
How about climbing steep wet cobbled roads in the saddle to test grip, where the rear can slide? I think the SC Michelin Pros slide less often than the Endurance.

I used to use gator skins but found the sidewalks weak. Use Michelin pro2,3,4 SC on road bike and Endurance on the commuter/in winter. I've also recently had a pair of Conti GP 4 seasons which were good, seemed to cut up a bit less than Michelins. I will repair tyres with a boot made from yoghurt pot if they cut badly, never had a problem with that.
 

GuyBoden

Guru
Location
Warrington
Marathon Plus are very popular, obviously very puncture resistant, a very well made durable tyre, but how many riders can get them off their wheels at the side of the road when needing to fix a puncture?
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Marathon Plus are very popular, obviously very puncture resistant, a very well made durable tyre,
and for a pair of 622-28s weigh a kilogramme and a half plus.
I wonder if the reason they are so difficult to get off (and on) is because once one's fitted them, one never ever need to take them off, until one wants a bike a kilogramme lighter
 
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GuyBoden

Guru
Location
Warrington
how many riders can get them off their wheels at the side of the road when needing to fix a puncture?

I've been very interested in buying a pair of Marathon Plus for a while, but if you can't get them off the wheel to fix a puncture at the side of the road, that's worrying.
 

the_mikey

Legendary Member
I sense there isn't a lot of love for them, but I reckon Conti Gator Skins are about the ideal tyre. I find they have good grip (better than the Vittoria Rubino Pros on my new bike in the wet) and seem tough enough without feeling dead or that like I'm riding through treacle.

I use Gatorskins also, and I agree, much better than Vittoria Rubino Pros, I can't cycle up Coxgrove Hill (avg 5% peak 8%) without losing traction when using Rubinos.
 
I sense there isn't a lot of love for them, but I reckon Conti Gator Skins are about the ideal tyre. I find they have good grip (better than the Vittoria Rubino Pros on my new bike in the wet) and seem tough enough without feeling dead or that like I'm riding through treacle.

And I really can't fault the Schwalbe Land Cruisers on the hybrid, especially the cheap as chips price.

Oh, and on the car it's Michelin Energy Savers all the way, they last almost forever, great grip and improved fuel economy.
I guessing the folk who are slating them for grip in the wet have them pumped up too hard. On a club run years ago I borrowed a front wheel of a mate which had a gatorskin. He got it back a month/ 1000 miles later and I couldn't fault it for grip and being Scotland it got plenty :rain:testing! ^_^
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
On a club run years ago I borrowed a front wheel of a mate
What did your mate think of you borrowing his wheel in the middle of a club run? Or did the club/team car give him a lift back to base?
Why would you run a Gatorskin if you could run a GP 4 Seasons? The latter scores better in every regard, doesn't it (endurance, grip, puncture resistance, sidewall durability, weight, rolling resistance), except that it costs £5 more, perhaps.
 
What did your mate think of you borrowing his wheel in the middle of a club run? Or did the club/team car give him a lift back to base?
Why would you run a Gatorskin if you could run a GP 4 Seasons? The latter scores better in every regard, doesn't it (endurance, grip, puncture resistance, sidewall durability, weight, rolling resistance), except that it costs £5 more, perhaps.
We were passing his house and he wanted to show us something in his man shed. As we went to leave I p'tured and rather than fixing it at the time he just offered me it :laugh:
I think the GP 4 Seasons are good tyres to a point (I used to run them for a while) but they'd suddenly fall apart and they cost more than their competitors so I wouldn't describe them as the best tyres just good ones :okay: If I was forced to choose I'd go for the gators on cost and durability but I'd rather choose Mitchelin tyres which IMO beats them both :okay:
 
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