Best used car for around 2k.

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fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
£2k isn't much anymore, so buy on condition. Be very wary of the condition of the underside, so as has been said, avoid coastal cars and those from up North, unless the owner keeps them clean and pays attention to the chassis - I've seen some terrible condition cars from all makes as folk haven't kept the road salt off the underside.

Keep an eye out for a petrol granny special.
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
To some degree I disagree with 10-year-old or older cars the owner didn't take care of any more or doesn't want to take care of. If you know how to use the internet and how to use car sites you can find cars that are older than 10 years and were taken well care of. For example, about 3 years ago I bought a 2002 Lexus SC430 for a summertime toy, the car only had 38,000 miles on it, and it was garage kept, plus all service records, the car has run superbly since I bought it as a 20 year old car! That car cost more than $2,000, it was a $12,000 dollar car being sold at a Lexus dealership that had serviced the car since it was new, and they had it on sale from $15,000.

I gave my grandson our 2009 Acura TL with 150,000 miles on it, it now has 170,000 miles on it, we bought it with 42,000 miles on it, all those miles it has never had a single mechanical repair.

High mileage cars can be tricky to buy, I wouldn't recommend buy a 150,000 mile car, but we gave it to him, and I was confident in the car that it would be fine for him for at least another 100,000 miles! But if you use the internet correctly you can put in the max number of miles you will accept, like say 125,000, and stay with historically reliable cars like Lexus/Toyota, or Acura/Honda, and if the car has been maintained correctly it should be a great car. At the $2,000 price level you will have to accept some body imperfections, and maybe some interior rough spots, just make sure nothing is major, minor scuffs and scratches are fine.

There is another trick to buying cars, this works for any make and model, all you do is once you find a car in your price range and miles, simply go online and enter the year, make, model and submodel if any, or engine size, and the put after that "was this a reliable car" hit enter. Or you can also search by asking " what were the best years for such a such car", and it will usually come back with the best and worse years for that particular make and model of car. Doing this helps eliminate some of the risks of buying used. This works for any brand of car, in case you can't find a Lexus/Toyota or Acura/Honda in your price range and mileage you might have to expand your horizons a bit.

The other thing is DO NOT TRUST Car Fax! Why? because Car Fax only records damages to the car if there was an insurance claim filed, if the owner paid cash to have it repaired there will be no record of it. But Car Fax will at least show a history of maintenance and repairs. Always try to get repair and maintenance records so you can tell how well it was maintained. If you are not car savvy then take any car you're considering to a mechanic, but they will charge to check it out, which could tear into your budget, or find a friend who knows a lot about cars and take them along.
I presume you're in the states, where you have fortunate position to get vehicles from other parts of the country which are dry states. So cars last much longer, have less wear due to highway driving.

We have scrappy roads, potholes everywhere, salt, damp climate. Finding garaged singlr owner cars in the UK is like hens teeth with good service history.

I agree with patience and research something will eventually pop up. Trouble is £2k is scraping the barrel price wise in the UK. You will be looking at a vehicle 10 years old.

My 8 Yr old Citroen was still commanding a price of £4-5k in good working order.

We dont have easy access to service information and private car service businesses will charge £75-125 an hour to do basic repairs. This is generally why UK older vehicles dont get serviced.
We as a nation dont garage vehicles either. Our garages get filled with household belongings
 

tyred

Squire
Location
Ireland
Original Skoda Fabia. The 1.2 three cylinder petrol is brilliant and very economical. My sons old one has 140k on the clock.
The main issue is finding one now that has a good service history.
Good luck.

I have to disagree. That 1.2 VW engine is best avoided. I've never known anyone to have a happy experience with them, myself included.
 

Profpointy

Legendary Member
A naturally aspirated petrol Honda or Toyota and you can't go too far wrong.

Agree. I replaced my much loved old Saab with a Honda Civic 1.8 petrol. OK it was £3k rather than 2k (maybe I paid too much?) and had was 10 years old and 120,000 miles. Improved after a service and not long after needed a £600 brake job but it seems a great little car. 44mpg, nearly as nice to drive as the Saab and not too much slower, albeit less luxurious and comfy. A year and another 10,000 miles I'm very happy with it. Even the seemingly dodgy far east tyres seem to grip OK so I'll wait till they wear out rather than replace them now as I'd imagined doing. Each tyre likely 60% cheaper than the Saab too

A friend had a mechanically similar Honda Accord which he bought new, and is now up to a quarter of a million more or less trouble free miles so I'd not shy away from a high mileage honda at an appropriate price.

Need to be able to cover £500 to a grand for any teething troubles with an older car I think.
 
I’d avoid the French branded cars.

My Renault Scenic is just shy of 100k miles and needs the glow plug issue diagnostic error code investigating further, a new clutch (gearbox out job and 12hrs book labour), and the electrics now play up from time to time as they are overly complex and over engineered in the design.

The engine itself is a solid 1.5 TDI diesel so will run and run but it’s the build around it that is starting to let it down.
 

Profpointy

Legendary Member
I’d avoid the French branded cars.

My Renault Scenic is just shy of 100k miles and needs the glow plug issue diagnostic error code investigating further, a new clutch (gearbox out job and 12hrs book labour), and the electrics now play up from time to time as they are overly complex and over engineered in the design.

New clutch after 100,000 miles would be fair enough, but 12 hours' labour to fit it is more like what you might expect/accept for a Ferrari
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
I have to disagree. That 1.2 VW engine is best avoided. I've never known anyone to have a happy experience with them, myself included.

We had a polo with 1.2 3 cylinder petrol.

Again, servicing is vital and not the manufacturer 10-15k mile oil service.

Every 5k miles, new oil/filter.

Stops engine part wear, especially the cam chain, guides and tensioner.

Daughter has a new Mini petrol. They recommend 18k mile oil change. With only a 4 litre sump capacity.

I told the service dealer bollocks when I booked it in for a 2k mile first oil change, whilst buying 6 more filters so I could do the servicing in between the 5 year free servicing we had got in the deal buying the car.

Its long life oil sir the service receptionsaid.

Just what a GDI engine needs, carbon ladened oil being recirculated back into the air inlet trac to coke up all the inlet valves prematurely.
 
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New clutch after 100,000 miles would be fair enough, but 12 hours' labour to fit it is more like what you might expect/accept for a Ferrari

Apparently requires the removal of the subframe and dropping of the gearbox in order to gain access, followed by checking the steering alignment afterward etc… bit of a silly design apparently! The French are flamboyant. Lol
 

Profpointy

Legendary Member
Apparently requires the removal of the subframe and dropping of the gearbox in order to gain access, followed by checking the steering alignment afterward etc… bit of a silly design apparently! The French are flamboyant. Lol

By way of comparison, I replaced the engine on my 68 Cortina in an hour and a half. From memory a clutch swap was a good bit quicker than that. I bought a recon gearbox for it and when I went to pick it up, they asked if I wanted them to for it. Admittedly it was in the 80s but fee was only a tenner, which for some reason had to be in cash. Even tight / sking me was prepared to pay a tenner to acoid doing it myself. Wandered off for an hour and it was done.

A clutch swap would only be an extra 10 minutes once you have the 'box off.
 
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CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
Clutch jobs were almost always remove the gearbox, bell housing to gain access. Some manufacturers offered an access slot to change the clutch friction plates. For some reason they never became popular.

Probable because it's wiser to replace the pressure plate or dual mass flywheel too to ensure smooth operation. A bit like only changing brakes pads on badly worn rotors.

12 hours is a lot of labour making it an expensive repair cost especially for an older vehicle if it has 100k on it
 

Bonefish Blues

Banging donk
Location
52 Festive Road
Last time I played “bangernomics” I bought an old Ford Ka. I wonder if there are any Honda Jazz around for that money ?

At that money, a complete wreck unless a unicorn - Jazzzzzs are so coveted they are strong money indeed.

What's needed is an anonobox that nobody gives a second glance to on eBay or t'Autobotherer. How about a petrol (not the diesel) FWD SX4 as a solid little car?

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-se...rt=relevance&transmission=Manual&year-to=2026
 
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