Bike Build - What To Do First?

[gbb]

Sorry, I think some of you are taking the piss. Possible eff up numero uno; in the process of trying to 'bend' two drop-outs 2.5mm each you bend one stay 7.5mm. Now what do you do? Possible eff up #2, you have no idea if the drop-outs on this frame are parallel now let alone after you've attacked the frame with a piece of 4x2. And what happens to the axles of geared hubs when they are placed in non parallel drop-outs and then ridden any distance? Anyone? They break is what happens to them. Do any of you lot (with the possible exception of Hubgearfreek) fancy replacing the axle of a nine speed SRAM hub? No you bloody don't. Perhaps we should remind ourselves how much Mr MacB has spent on this rear wheel.

MacB, have the rear end re-spaced by the nearest best bike shop using the correct drop-out alignment tools.

You are of course possibly right, you can bugger it up. Thats why i stated to go gently and measure straight away before applying any more force. Sheldon brown also states what to do if you inadvertently open it up too much.

Parallel dropouts...that did occur to me when i did mine. It hasnt been a problem in two winters, nothings broke, everything runs fine. ( i spaced mine from 125 to 135 IIRC to accomodate a 9 speed wheel)

The cold setting method i used is easily found on the Sheldon brown website. It deals with the dropout angles ...as follows (copied from the webpage),

Spreading the frame will cause a slight change in the angles of the fork ends, so they will no longer be exactly parallel to one another (assuming they started that way.)
For higher-quality frames with forged fork ends, this can theoretically lead to problems if the fork ends aren't re-aligned. In the case of older/cheaper frames with thin, stamped dropouts, the dropouts are flexible enough that it's not a problem.

Moderate spacing changes make only small changes in the fork-end angles. For instance, spreading a 120 mm frame to 126 mm only changes the angle by half a degree. Spreading a 126 mm frame to 130 only changes the angle by one-third of a degree.

Problems attributed to misaligned fork ends include bent/broken axles. As it happens, the direction that the alignment changes when you spread the rear triangle is such that the alignment error is unlikely to cause this, because the stress it puts on the axle is opposite the stress created by the chain drive. Alignment errors in the opposite direction would be much more likely to cause problems.

There's no easy "home-mechanic" tool for fork end alignment, except for a big adjustable wrench and a good eye. I would advise, if in doubt about the alignment, that you take it to a shop for this purpose, even if you do the frame spreading yourself.

I followed the above with no problems whatsoever.

To be fair, i'm competent with mechanics so it doesnt frighten me. McB may, or may not achieve the spacing easily, but like everything, if you're not prepared to have a go, you pay. It's all about choices. The question's been asked, options have been given. Thats what this sites all about isnt it ?

Armed with the pro's and con's..i'm sure McB can make a judgement which is right for him.

 

[gbb]

Agreed. Then assemble the bike and ride it for a while before you decide how much to spend on paint. You'll learn something in the process, and do it more confidently next time.

I haven't had a frame powder coated, but if done by a firm outside the bike trade I doubt that they would (e.g.) mask the bottom bracket threads. You could end up having to go to a frame builder or well-equipped LBS to have threads chased and the seat tube reamed before you'd be able to reassemble the bike.

Headset cups (the parts that fit in the head tube of the frame) and fork crown race (the round thing that sits on top of the bit of the fork that the blades plug into) really need installing by a competent bike shop, who will have the necessary tools to do the job precisely. It's almost always worth fitting a new, modern headset when you have an old frame resprayed. The original won't be as good as a recent one, and cheap old ones don't last long. You are right in thinking that you will need a threaded headset (so not an Aheadset) and to use a quill stem. Although you could use one of these if you want a Ahead-type stem, which can be a handy thing to have for its front-opening bar clamp.

PS this book is very good (although not now as blue as the edition I have), and even if you never do half the things in it you'll learn the terminology for talking to your LBS!

Its a poor powdercoater that wouldnt mask all the threads automatically. You shouldnt even have to tell them, its standard practice. (although asking wouldnt hurt anyway)

 

[gbb]

Are we talking about a high end, expensive, or exotic material frame McB ?...or a project on the cheap. If its an expensive frame, i think i'd be inclined to let someone else do it.
I'm basing my information on my experience...a cheap 531 frame that started out at £25. In the end, it still cost £200 plus to upgrade, powdercoat etc etc. You can spend even more if you want to...new headset, professional spacing etc etc.
I'm not knocking the suggestions, they're all valid....but it all racks up in the wallet. I know i was surprised how much it all cost, and i cut corners . But....ive got a reliable, rock solid commuter that should last for years.

 

[MacB]

It's an old 500 frame, soeven cheaper than a 531, I must admit I'm now adding this up and wondering if buying a new frame and forks is going to make more sense. But I'll price up having it respaced and see, but I don't want to spend a couple of hundred on this frame, I'd rather buy a new one.

 

[tyred]

If it's not an expensive frame and you only want it for commuting , I would paint it myself.

 

[hubgearfreak]

Sorry, I think some of you are taking the piss. Possible eff up numero uno; in the process of trying to 'bend' two drop-outs 2.5mm each you bend one stay 7.5mm. Now what do you do?

what you do then is measure it with sheldons string method as described in the link, and bend it back, until it's right. i've done it to a few (including front forks to take sa hubgears), and it's really no drama

the frame's cheap, give it a go with the plank and string, seriously

 

[Dave5N]

If it's not an expensive frame and you only want it for commuting , I would paint it myself.

Powdercoating's cheaper, unless you use emulsion or something.

 

[tyred]

Japlac is cheap enough and will give an excellent finish.

 

[MacB]

Bottling it now, back to looking at off the peg frames, have started a new thread for feedback on the Surly Crosscheck.