Bike scoring system
- Thread starter Tin Pot
- Start date
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Diggs
Veteran
- Location
- Billericay, Essex
Points added in proportion to the clickyness of the rear hub?
stalagmike
Enormous member
- Location
- Milton Keynes
Wouldn't this just require bikopedia to build in a scoring system? Obviously this would need to be cleverly controlled/ weighted to try to give the most accurate results. The problem is that opinions on bikes will always be subjective, and it's how you turn opinion into quantifiable data
That will determine if your scoring system is a true reflection of the bikes. Whatever, it would be a big job to set up.
That will determine if your scoring system is a true reflection of the bikes. Whatever, it would be a big job to set up.
EasyPeez
Veteran
- Location
- Cottingham, East Yorkshire
That bad? I was just eyeing up some DT Swiss wheels...
Without wishing to drag the thread off-topic, would you know enough about the components to offer an opinion on these in terms of likely reliability/value for money?
http://www.justridingalong.com/jra-jawbone-wheelset-with-pacenti-sl25-rims.html
jay clock
Massive member
- Location
- Hampshire UK
Old fashioned lugs = minus 500
Steel = minus 200
Bar end shifters = minus 10,000,000
Brown tyre sidewalls = minus 300
Wide bars (44cm+ on medium frame) = plus 200
Proper road bike with mudguards and discs = plus 5,000
Steel = minus 200
Bar end shifters = minus 10,000,000
Brown tyre sidewalls = minus 300
Wide bars (44cm+ on medium frame) = plus 200
Proper road bike with mudguards and discs = plus 5,000
Yellow Saddle
Guru
- Location
- Loch side.
Sir Jay, sir has made a sign error. The lugs should be +, not -. Small error and I'm sure Sir would have picked it up in any way. Same with steel. Just the sign is wrong.
Yellow Saddle
Guru
- Location
- Loch side.
There is a lot wrong with those wheels. Firstly those hubs are knock-off of the American Classic hub. Nothing wrong with a good copy but the bearings are tiny and just don't last. There's a very recent thread here where we discussed those bearings in detail. Further, the spoke count is ridiculous. The skewers are from hell and the nipples are made from aluminium - the wrong material for a nipple. Those wheels generally cannot be trued without replacing the spokes after just one season because the nipples have frozen onto the spokes through corrosion.
winjim
Smash the cistern
That's not a proper road bike then is it?
EasyPeez
Veteran
- Location
- Cottingham, East Yorkshire
How did I know that was coming?! And I was so taken by the Pacenti rims and the funky JRA stickers!
I assume you have no truck with the recent 5* Best in Test Cycling Plus mag rating?
The hubs were my concern as they were the bits I'd never heard of/couldn't find info on.
How so? Aren't they 24 spoke? At 9.5 stone how many spokes do I need for UK road riding? My current Fulcrums are 21 spoke and I haven't had any issues with breaking or truing after 4,500 miles.
I couldn't find it...please could you link?
EDIT - think I found it - https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/want-to-be-sure-about-correct-parts.195498/
You can choose brass or alu nipples at the same price. Brass are heavier but don't corrode, is that right?
Thanks for the advice @Yellow Saddle - I have just posted on this thread if you have time to take a look and offer opinions on any of the others. No worries if not. Apologies to everyone else for hijacking the thread.
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/new-wheels.194787/page-2
Last edited:
mickle
innit
- Location
- 53.933606, -1.076131
I'm keeping out of this.
Dogtrousers
Kilometre nibbler
Take the sum of: Any number in the bike name (eg Whizzo Road 500); The number of teeth on the largest chainwheel; the model number of the groupset, if any (eg 6800); the total number of gears. Divide by the total number of spokes; Discard any part after the decimal point. Take the remainder after division by 7. This will give you a score.
Yellow Saddle
Guru
- Location
- Loch side.
How did I know that was coming?! And I was so taken by the Pacenti rims and the funky JRA stickers!
I assume you have no truck with the recent 5* Best in Test Cycling Plus mag rating?
The hubs were my concern as they were the bits I'd never heard of/couldn't find info on.
How so? Aren't they 24 spoke? At 9.5 stone how many spokes do I need for UK road riding? My current Fulcrums are 21 spoke and I haven't had any issues with breaking or truing after 4,500 miles.
I couldn't find it...please could you link?
EDIT - think I found it - https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/want-to-be-sure-about-correct-parts.195498/
You can choose brass or alu nipples at the same price. Brass are heavier but don't corrode, is that right?
Thanks for the advice @Yellow Saddle - I have just posted on this thread if you have time to take a look and offer opinions on any of the others. No worries if not. Apologies to everyone else for hijacking the thread.
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/new-wheels.194787/page-2
Your Fulcrums have done 4500 miles? I'm not impressed. That's a few months' off-season training. I have a set of wheels I built in 1992 which have an estimated 120 000 kms on the clock with only minor truing - perhaps five times in that period. But, to each their own. If your requirement is less than mine, then what works, works.
You seemed to have missed some posts on here where we discussed durability vs strength in wheels. The two must not be confused. Again, search with me as author and those keywords and you'll find plenty. 24 spokes may be strong enough but certainly not durable.
Brass doesn't corrode like aluminium does. It developes a patina and goes darkish but it doesn't corrode with big white crystals that jam the nipple onto the spoke and it also doesn't develop stress cracks after a few hundred thousand cycles. Brass nipples have an effective infinite life and on top of that, are easy to turn, even after many years. They don't lock themselves onto the spoke.
UK riding is no different from any other type of riding. A pothole will dent a 100 spoke wheel just like it will dent a 20 spoke wheel. Further, no type of riding is any different from any other type. Chris Hoy and I require exactly the same wheels if we were to do the same load-distance. Wheel fatigue (rim cracking spokes breaking) is a factor of the loading (rider's mass) and number of loaded cycles the wheels undergo, hence load-distance. Torque, even extreme torque, only increases tension in spokes by about 5% (in the pulling spokes and decreases tension by 5% in pushing spokes) whereas your weight can do it up to 30%. If you are a Chihuahua, a 28 spoke wheel will be durable for you. St Bernards require 32 or 36.
"I assume you have no truck with the recent 5* Best in Test Cycling Plus mag rating?"
I am a foreigner, so I don't know what the above means. Is truck the same as beef? Further, I have made my views clear on cycling magazines and have done reviews of reviews in this forum. I'm almost certain that if you are referring to a review in a cycling magazine, it is rubbish. Their journalists are not trained as engineers or even have high school science behind them and just regurgitate rubbish they read as kids in yesterday's rubbish cycling magazines.
EasyPeez
Veteran
- Location
- Cottingham, East Yorkshire
Grateful as always for your response @Yellow Saddle , but I'm also feeling rather naughty for dragging this thread off-topic so have replied to your points in a more appropriate thread here - https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/new-wheels.194787/page-2
Hope you'll have the time to have a look. Cheers.
Hope you'll have the time to have a look. Cheers.
I tried a Lynskey Sportive last year, my god the clicks were so loud they would have driven me mad (sounded like a playing card taped to the fork rubbing against the spokes, like we used to do on our choppers as kids)
