Bike strip-down/Rear and front Derailleurs problem!

[migrantwing]

My road bike has been standing in my spare room for far too long so, I decided to give it an overall service and also change the gear cables. I stripped the rear derailleur down and gave it a good clean, along with the jockey wheels. I also did the same with the front derailleur. I attached them back on the bike, lubricated them and then proceeded to fit the new shifter cables/housing. I lubricated the new cables/housing, fitted them and was very chuffed that it all went so well without any profanities at all...or so I thought.

Another reason I decided to give my bike a service was that the last time I used it (maybe a month or so ago) there were a few gears I couldn't find and, seeing as the gear cables had seen better days, thought to replace them. I have come across a few problems:

1) Where the hell do I start in setting up/aligning my gears. I know how to do it (more or less) but just need a starting point.
2) Cable tension. My road bike (as I think is the norm) has three points of adjustment. At the shifter, the downtube, and rear barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur. The front derailleur has the adjustment at the shifter, the downtube and then the main mech. Which adjuster does what? Is there a preferred sequence for adjusting these?

I've watched numerous YouTube videos, looked at the forums on here for advice, and felt confident with the task ahead as it all seems so simple. Yet, when I actually come to the 'hands-on' part, I'm completely flumoxed

Also, my rear derailleur hanger. How tight does this have to be? I have noticed that if it is too tight (quick release wheels) it pulls the derailleur in which changes alignment. How tight or loose does this have to be?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I just want to get back out on the road.

Thanks in advance...

P.S. It probably didn't help that I tried to do this at 3am, overtired and annoyed

 

[Globalti]

When you refit the new cables it helps if you have an angle grinder or a grinding wheel and you can grind the ends of the outers square and flat. Not vital but it's considered good practice. Put some chain lube on your fingers and run the inner cable through at the back where it curves around to the derailleur. Again not really necessary but I like to do it.

When you tighten the bolt holding the inner cable to the derallieur, make sure all adjusters are screwed fully in to the slackest setting then pull the cable as tight as you can with the chain on the smallest cog. I like to grab the end with pliers and lever them against the derailleur body to pull the cable tight. With luck the tension will only need the smallest adjustment after that. People say that you should start with the chain on the middle cog but I just set it on the smallest then run up and down the cassette. One thing is for sure; the changing won't be the same for an unloaded chain (i.e. with the bike hanging up or upside down) as it will be under load so the best way to check adjustment is to get out and ride it up and down the road while changing gear - you'll soon work out which way it needs to go.

The derailleur hanger needs to be bolted finger tight to the frame. If doing this is pulling it out of alignment the hanger or the dropout might be bent, you can only check alignment with a special tool, which your LBS will have and might do for you if you ask nicely. Try assembling everything and getting it all set up before deciding it's out of alignment as it's difficult to judge by eye.

 

[2Loose]

Grinding wheels aren't required if your cutters cut the cable cleanly btw, although a drop of superglue works just as well to stop fraying before threading it into the outers.

Do make sure your adjusters are fully home and at their slackest setting as Globalti says.

Put the shifter to to the where it should select the smallest cog.

Put the chain on the smallest cog if the derailleur hasn't already moved it there.
NB. if the derailleur is pulling the cable to the biggest cog, then set the shifter to the largest and also the chain. This will be because your rear mech is a 'rapid-rise' model and works back to front.

Tug the cable through - just to take up the slack.

Nip up the cable retaining bolt.

The adjusters should require minimal adjustment to take up any more slack and index properly.

 

[migrantwing]

Many thanks, guys! I will follow your advice and if I have any problems, I'll be sure to post again Thanks, once again.