Bit of DIY Advice

[MacB]

I'm still working on my garage and I now want to run a 3m length of kitchen worksurface along the back wall. I've resigned myself to going with white as it'll make things easier to see. The choice in the cheapo £35 range was black or white, but I'l lsee if they have any others on offer when I pop in to pick it up.

So, question, how would you fit it? There won't be units or carcass below for it to sit on, so obviously I'll need to organise some sort of framework. I was thinking of building a frame out of 4x2 but is that too excessive? I've still got various bits of wood kicking about that can be used. I'm feeling I need a fair bit of support along the back, maybe a 2.4m length of 4x2, fitted to wall and also with some vertical supports? Put some legs in at the front that also bolt to the floor as well?

Anyone done anything similar?

 

[mickle]

4by2 is overkill, 2x2 will do very well as wall batten and front legs. Run a length from batten to back of legs too. Screw up from timber into underneath of work surface rather than through the top. And build a shelf slightly higher than halfway up to optimise your under bench space.

 

[Night Train]

How it is fitted will depend on what you are going to use it for.

I did something similar using old fire doors to make a work bench in my basement.
I rawbolted a 4"x2" to the wall to support the back edge and then used a length of 5"x3" (only because it was available) to run under the front edge. That was supported by some legs of the same size.

How I did it was to first fit the timber to the wall. Then I assembled the legs to the second length of timber for the front and made sure that it was the same height and level with the one on the wall.
I then screwed the front bit of timber to the underside of the firedoor/worktop and then placed it on the timber on the wall.

It was then positioned, snugged up to the brickwork and then screwed in place.

To stop the front legs from being kicked about I screwed in some diagonal braces from the timber on the wall to the bottom of the legs.



The timber fixed to the wall need not be full length. You could do it in shorter lengths with spaces as long as they are all level and tightly bolted to the bricks.
If there is any doubt as to the security of the wall fixings you can always add legs (or just use legs bolted or screwed to the wall) to take the vertical loads and just use the fixings to support them and prevent movement.

Use a full length timber for the front edge but back from the edge about 2"-3" and then bring legs down to the floor. Bolting to the floor is fine but don't drill throught any damp proof membrane that may be under the concrete.
4"x"2 is fine also 3"x2" is enough for legs.
4 equally spaced legs at the front would be sufficient unless you are intending to put really heavy stuff on it.

 

[Night Train]

4by2 is overkill, 2x2 will do very well

But 2x2 is just kindling!

 

[MacB]

Cheers guys, been dabbling on the B&Q site as well, i could do the legs from metal poles with each end fixed with those brackets you'd use to fit a hanging rail. That should take care of clumsy feet kicking them, maybe 4 or 5 of those plus a 2.4m length of 4x2(or 3x2/2x2) along the back. I've still got all of the fittings from the old kitchen, I'll have a dig and see if I've got any adjustable feet as well.

 

[Night Train]

The only problem with those tube fittings is that if you inadvertantly lift the top a bit then the legs will fall out.

They do large diameter metal lets that have a proper fitting on the top and an adjustable height foot to allow for undulations in the floor level.

 

[Noodley]

Can you please stop this?!

My head will explode....I have a new storage room (it started off as 'my bike room' when the plans were drawn up ) and suggestions of 'shelves', 'places to store things', 'hanging rails for the horse saddle and tack', etc, etc have been a regular feature of one-way ramblings...

One-way other than me saying "Look at the architect plans, it says 'bike room'

But it's an open room, and some kind of 'storage' will be required...all this talk is frying my brain!

 

[swee'pea99]

I did almost exactly this to make a workbench for 'er indores. 1" x 2" baton full length along the back wall and along one short side - baton screwed to the wall, worksurface screwed to batons - plus a simple H in 2" x 2" to support the unsupported end. Been rock solid for five or six years now...(If you screw securely into a wall, you don't need much 'depth' of fitting - all the load is straight down...it has to snap the screw to go anywhere, and that takes a helluva load.)

 

[Rhythm Thief]

I used some bits of Dexion (like big Meccano) screwed to the wall and the base of the worktop, then two more bits triangulated out to the outside ends of the verticals and horizontals. Not pretty, but very sturdy.

 

[Globalti]

Yep.... we did this in our double garage, right across the back wall. Got a bloke to build a frame in 2x2 and put some slatted shelves halfway up, then drop the longest kitchen worktop available on top, with a sink thrown in for good measure. It was great for Mrs Gti's pottery and my bodging. The legs were fixed to the floor with 90 degree steel brackets.

 

[rich p]

Melamine end panels screwed to the floor and the worktop with L plates, a back wall support (2 x 2 is sufficient) and a cantilevered 2 x 2 support in the middle if it's necessary - which i probably isn't.

Mind you, there's 101 ways to skin a cat!

 

[sheddy]

wots it for ? - if you be adding a vice and pillar drill, it will need 4x2 framework. Do you have anywhere to get hold of recycled timber ?
(Other framing solutions are available, dexion or speedframe)

 

[Fnaar]

Have if on chains, with legs that pop out as it comes down, so you can fold it away (back against the wall) if you want to*

(*this is beyond my skills, but I can see how it would work)

 

[MacB]

it'll be a permanent not folding, will have at least one vice maybe two. I think 2x2 will be fine as I'll run along end wall as well, also like the idea of an end panel. I'll also put supports under the 2x2 at the back and I think 3 legs at the front, plus the end panel. Not sure about a shelf underneath as we have a variety of plastic storage units, tubs, boxes, drawers, that are all free standing and will be slotting underneath. I'll also need a section for tyres, wheels and mudguards.

Ok, I'll get this done and take some piccies then the next phase will be tool storage above. I really fancy covering the wall in pegboard and creating my own tool 'masterpiece'. Also throw in some small drawer units and shelving. But if I cover the wall then I can re-arrange as and when I like.

Any ideas on the pegboard and how to hang the tools appreciated.

 

[ufkacbln]

But 2x2 is just kindling!

That's fine, it works well when things don't go according to plan and you burn the whole lot in a fir of pique!

More seriously it should be fine for what is needed...... unless we are talking metric?