Block pavers and sand

[Sittingduck]

Sup team

I am undertaking the orrible task of pressure washing a grime and weed ridden driveway. Said horror show is a mere 140 square metres (approx) . Made a decent start on the cleaning, which I am estimating will take me around 4 days given the progress thus far. The next thing I need to arrange for is replacement sand. The question my dears is: proper paver sand vs sharp sand... is it worth it? Not too fussed about cost uplift but availability of the paver sand means I am thinking of skimping - what say you?

edit to add: coverage - the specs say a bag will do 5sq m but is this a ruse, e.g. I have seen estimates online with higher figures. You think a bag will most likely do more area, I bet I can get it to go to further... ?

TIA
SD

 

[roadrash]

If you want to do it proper then use kiln dried silicone sand, and a very soft brush, a bag should do a lot more than 5 sqM ....if you dont want to do it proper then use summat else .

 

[Teamfixed]

The easiest way in my book is to brush in a dry mix of about 5:1 sharp sand and cement and then push into the joints with a bit of suitable shaped pipe. It will set gradually on its own Then it will withstand the next wash if you are careful with the pressure washer.
But beware if the slabs are Indian limestone, don't get any cement on them as it will stain them for ages.

 

[roadrash]

But beware if the slabs are Indian limestone

title says block paving

 

[Sittingduck]

If you want to do it proper then use kiln dried silicone sand, and a very soft brush, a bag should do a lot more than 5 sqM ....if you dont want to do it proper then use summat else .

Happy to use the proper stuff is it makes a difference. When you say a lot more, you think double, treble? I have seen an estimate saying 1 bag will do between 15 - 30 m2, but that sounds a lot of a variance from the supplier info (that I realise has a commercial angle to it).

 

[Teamfixed]

The easiest way in my book is to brush in a dry mix of about 5:1 sharp sand and cement and then push into the joints with a bit of suitable shaped pipe. It will set gradually on its own Then it will withstand the next wash if you are careful with the pressure washer.
But beware if the slabs are Indian limestone, don't get any cement on them as it will stain them for ages.

Erm block pavers. Ok this is not relevant..... Always read the post

 

[Randomnerd]

The kiln dried silica sand is the only sensible way. It must be completely dry when it’s laid too. Has to flow like a liquid to fill the joints. Soft bristles, as already mentioned.
You are likely to have 50mm paviers. You may have dislodged 25 mm of sand with washing. Reckon on at least 25 kg per 10m2. Could be more or less, depending on how well the drive was laid.
Sand stabilizer is available to seal the whole job once filled and dried. Does keep the sand in place longer where there is likely to be heavy traffic.

 

[CanucksTraveller]

Kiln dried fine silica sand only, preferably treated for weed resistance, dont skimp on cost because cheaper stuff like sharp sand won't fill the joints properly and will be full of weeds 3 months from now.
As others have said, use a soft brush, and brush diagonally to the joints.

If you're unsure of coverage, buy less than you need initially where possible, you can always go back for another bag or two. That's how I measured mine.

And God speed. I've done that job twice, never again! I could barely walk for about 3 days afterwards with all the bending forward.

 

[Lookrider]

Maybe consider the hire of a rattler as well to make sure the sand is rattled all way down the joints

 

[Sittingduck]

Thanks all - will get a dozen bags of the kiln dried paver sand and see how I get on. Just need to do the pressure washing for the remaining 90% of it first