well someone suggested to me in other post to ask for some advice on braking on a road bike. is it different to a hybrid? my bike is fairly new and was told that your brakes takes a while to break in, so should i be more careful going down hills until they have been worn in for a while. any advice would be really appreciated as don't want the same thing to happen again.
braking on road bikes
- Thread starter sarahpink
- Start date
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Gerry Attrick
Lincolnshire Mountain Rescue Consultant
It does take a wee while for pads and rims to become, shall we say intimately acquainted, but if they are adjusted correctly, it does not take long. No special break in procedures are required other than to be aware that full efficiency may take a while to develop.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
If budget shimano or tektro pads, change them for Aztec, coolstop or clarkes etc.
Budget pads are pretty naff.
Budget pads are pretty naff.
jimboalee said:
any idea how i would do any of that? sorry i really am a stereotypical female blonde,
i have no clue with how to even put a chain back on. i want to learn and have enquired about any cycle matience course to go on , but i cant even pump wheels up, just don't have the strength
know i sound so stupid but you've got to start somewhere!these are the brake specifications ive got, can I upgrade these?
Front Brake:Light dual pivot brake, Teflon pivots, forged alloy, with standard padsRear Brake:Light dual pivot brake, Teflon pivots, forged alloy, with standard padsBrake Levers:Shimano 2300 STI, flight deck compatible
Front Brake:Light dual pivot brake, Teflon pivots, forged alloy, with standard padsRear Brake:Light dual pivot brake, Teflon pivots, forged alloy, with standard padsBrake Levers:Shimano 2300 STI, flight deck compatible
BrumJim
Forum Stalwart (won't take the hint and leave...)
- Location
- Selly Oak, Birmingham
If you want a job done properly, talk to jimboalee.
However most people just bed the brakes in by using them. Just be aware that they won't be as responsive the first few times.
Spent many a pointless hour trying to get a spec for bedding in brake pads. But for trains, not bikes. Seems like nothing better than a few high speed stops with plenty of room for error.
However most people just bed the brakes in by using them. Just be aware that they won't be as responsive the first few times.
Spent many a pointless hour trying to get a spec for bedding in brake pads. But for trains, not bikes. Seems like nothing better than a few high speed stops with plenty of room for error.
I'd say the braking is very different on hybrids and race bikes. On my race bike I have to break about four times for every once or twice on the hybrid. Some of this is just that the race bike picks up so much extra speed. As the wheels are much lighter and thinner it's much easier to skid or wobble. I find you can get away monkeying around with the front brakes on the hybrid whereas you can't really on the race bike.
There are quite a lot of videos on bicycle tutor but I've not found one exactly applicable yet http://bicycletutor.com/part/brake/
You basically need a set of allen keys and to loosen the brakes - the latter is done usually on race bikes by flicking something or pulling a noodle out if you have v brakes.
You basically need a set of allen keys and to loosen the brakes - the latter is done usually on race bikes by flicking something or pulling a noodle out if you have v brakes.
Spinney
Bimbleur extraordinaire
- Location
- Back up north
sarahpink said:any idea how i would do any of that? sorry i really am a stereotypical female blonde,
You don't sound like a 'typical blonde' to me - you want to learn how to do it!
(my idea of the stereotypical blonde is "I don't need to know how to do it cos a man will be along to do it for me....")
You'll get there!
battered
Guru
sarahpink said:sorry i really am a stereotypical female blonde,
Phew, steady on Sarah, you're a 23yo blonde, I'm surprised you haven't yet been trampled in the rush of men saying "pump your tyres up, of course I'm strong enough, well, it's not hard for me, no problem of course given my training regime but if y'norra natural athlete, y'know, I can understand..."
So hopefully nobody's going to be coming on all unnecessary anytime soon.
Brake blocks are straightforward to change, but let's start with pumping up the tyres (answer, get a track pump then you are just pushing down with both arms) and replacing a dropped chain (answer, with rubber gloves on if you have them, stand the bike upside down, push the (oily!)derailleur towards the front of the bike and then hook the now slack chain back on the gears)
Edin bike co-op do maintenance classes, failing that there may be a night class or similar. I'd say "ask on here if anyone here will teach you how to mend a bike" but you might find the pools of drool off-putting if all you want is to sort out your gearshift.
punkypossum
Donut Devil
- Location
- My own little planet...
I'm totally non-technical as well, however, when it comes to pumping up tyres, get yourself a decent track pump (something like a Joe Blow or similar) and the job becomes a doddle!
thanks everyone for the replies. went out on it yesterday, was very over cautiuos and think I worked out what I did wrong, when I do brake to stop lol I need to put my hands further down the brake leavers as have fairly ickle hands. so happy to get my bike back
Yes, the further down the brake levers you go the more torque you could get. This is quite noticeable braking on the hoods (higher position) on my bike and then trying it on the drops - I know you're not supposed to brake on the hoods on many bikes!
I'd still say it's different to braking on a hybrid and you need to brake earlier and more times.
Have fun whilst the weather is good!
I'd still say it's different to braking on a hybrid and you need to brake earlier and more times.
Have fun whilst the weather is good!
