Building my own Trike
- Thread starter ChrisKz
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MOD NOTE: A new thread started for this project !
Sorry If this is wrong section .. I am looking for some advice on suspension ( front) I am using A arms suspension , and just wondered what poundage (Lbs) springs to use for the front wheels . I don't want hard or jarring ride , much prefer medium to soft ride . Any advise pleas e. Thank you
Sorry If this is wrong section .. I am looking for some advice on suspension ( front) I am using A arms suspension , and just wondered what poundage (Lbs) springs to use for the front wheels . I don't want hard or jarring ride , much prefer medium to soft ride . Any advise pleas e. Thank you
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Tigerbiten
Guru
A lot of the front suspension effect on a tadpole trike comes from running the tyres at the correct pressure for the conditions.
Actual active front suspension on a tadpole trike is tricky.
If the trike roll outwards a bit on corners because the suspension compresses then this may alter your overall sideways balance on the trike.
If your CoG shifts to much then this will affect the handling.
I run the font suspension on my ICE trike with the hard elastomers simply because I think that gives me the best balance of suspension vs handling.
So you're probably going to have to adjust the springs as you go until you find the best setup for your trike.
Luck ..........
Actual active front suspension on a tadpole trike is tricky.
If the trike roll outwards a bit on corners because the suspension compresses then this may alter your overall sideways balance on the trike.
If your CoG shifts to much then this will affect the handling.
I run the font suspension on my ICE trike with the hard elastomers simply because I think that gives me the best balance of suspension vs handling.
So you're probably going to have to adjust the springs as you go until you find the best setup for your trike.
Luck ..........
I am using my designed arms like the green and silver pic . I am not using the 2nd pic suspension unit . I have made the A arms adjustable so that toe in/out can be set and also the camber ( I did a lot of research including Ackermann etc ). I am using 4.00" wide rims .. I have ordered a 750 lbs rear shock/damper for the rear ( there is more info for rear suspension ) than the front , hence my post . Would a pair of adjustable (ie 500lb ) adjustable shocks be ideal ( i would like a medium to soft ride ) or would it be best to go more or less . I honestly don't wish to buy and then return shocks to find the best that suits me . I am using E power only and not interested in speed ( it will be used mostly for trails and off road ).A lot of the front suspension effect on a tadpole trike comes from running the tyres at the correct pressure for the conditions.
Actual active front suspension on a tadpole trike is tricky.
If the trike roll outwards a bit on corners because the suspension compresses then this may alter your overall sideways balance on the trike.
If your CoG shifts to much then this will affect the handling.
I run the font suspension on my ICE trike with the hard elastomers simply because I think that gives me the best balance of suspension vs handling.
So you're probably going to have to adjust the springs as you go until you find the best setup for your trike.
Luck ..........
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Cycleops
Legendary Member
- Location
- Accra, Ghana
Tigerbiten
Guru
The thing is that trike don't react to changes of your CoG as you would expect.
If you lean right on a bike then the bike will try and turn right.
But if you lean right on a trike then the trike will try and turn left .....
The higher your CoG is, then the more noticeable this effect is.
Hence new upwrong trike riders automagically steering into a ditch the first time they hit a camber.
I find on my ICE trike ......
The 2" tyres run at a medium pressure are going to absorb a lot of the road buzz from a reasonable gravel surfaced track.
So the front suspension is mainly there to absorb the bigger rock sized bumps.
But I'm also happy hitting speeds of +40mph downhill on a good road surface.
At these types of speeds not only does the steering get very light but a soft front suspension can cause the trike to wander a bit side to side due to shifting your weight.
Hence running my suspension at the hard setting, I've gone higher speed handling over lower speed comfort.
Luck ..........
If you lean right on a bike then the bike will try and turn right.
But if you lean right on a trike then the trike will try and turn left .....
The higher your CoG is, then the more noticeable this effect is.
Hence new upwrong trike riders automagically steering into a ditch the first time they hit a camber.
I find on my ICE trike ......
The 2" tyres run at a medium pressure are going to absorb a lot of the road buzz from a reasonable gravel surfaced track.
So the front suspension is mainly there to absorb the bigger rock sized bumps.
But I'm also happy hitting speeds of +40mph downhill on a good road surface.
At these types of speeds not only does the steering get very light but a soft front suspension can cause the trike to wander a bit side to side due to shifting your weight.
Hence running my suspension at the hard setting, I've gone higher speed handling over lower speed comfort.
Luck ..........
byegad
Legendary Member
- Location
- NE England
Big Apple 50mm tyres are all the suspension you'll ever need. I run my Catrike on 35mm front tyres at 75psi and the same at the back at 80psi. Light off roading on gravel tracks is no problem at all.
Building your own trike is enormous fun and can be rewarding .
However unfortunately should you decide to sell on later
they have little or no residual value or you might break it and sell the mainstream parts to recover your investment .
Inevitably you will have a mark 1 mark 2 and mark 3
and the cupboard will over flow with redundant parts as the project develops
The big risk ....you will invest a huge amount of time and effort
Researching can take hours
The more questions you ask .....the more confusion.
So the key is .....ride as many designs as you can .
The BHPC have a wonderfull book at modest price " so you want to build a recumbent" . Join the club and pop along to a race meeting armed with a camera to record design info some machines
One or two UK dealers have basket case or breakers available.
Probably requiring bog standard running gear .
Never sold online to avoid any comeback .
However I can offer you a starter package trike in its barest form
What is it ??
ICE Custom Classic model wide trike.
Comprising of a rear section triangle
Central cruciform unit
Front boom .
What's the catch ? or history
It has taken a nudge from a kerbing incident .
One cross tube has a crease and therefore currently it would offer the handling characteristics of a crab .😉
I mentioned wide track
A possible repair could be modify/repair cut shut to become a narrow track......(assuming you have reasonable DIY skills) .
Or remove the cross tubes for your copy cat AZUB Ti Fly suspended trike.
Happy to discuss and provide pictures and of course price at some stage .
Your thoughts
* other projects might be available from all good recumbent stores 😁
Regards Kevin D.TEK 01353 648177
However unfortunately should you decide to sell on later
they have little or no residual value or you might break it and sell the mainstream parts to recover your investment .
Inevitably you will have a mark 1 mark 2 and mark 3
and the cupboard will over flow with redundant parts as the project develops
The big risk ....you will invest a huge amount of time and effort
Researching can take hours
The more questions you ask .....the more confusion.
So the key is .....ride as many designs as you can .
The BHPC have a wonderfull book at modest price " so you want to build a recumbent" . Join the club and pop along to a race meeting armed with a camera to record design info some machines
One or two UK dealers have basket case or breakers available.
Probably requiring bog standard running gear .
Never sold online to avoid any comeback .
However I can offer you a starter package trike in its barest form
What is it ??
ICE Custom Classic model wide trike.
Comprising of a rear section triangle
Central cruciform unit
Front boom .
What's the catch ? or history
It has taken a nudge from a kerbing incident .
One cross tube has a crease and therefore currently it would offer the handling characteristics of a crab .😉
I mentioned wide track
A possible repair could be modify/repair cut shut to become a narrow track......(assuming you have reasonable DIY skills) .
Or remove the cross tubes for your copy cat AZUB Ti Fly suspended trike.
Happy to discuss and provide pictures and of course price at some stage .
Your thoughts
* other projects might be available from all good recumbent stores 😁
Regards Kevin D.TEK 01353 648177
I have already designed my trike . I have fabricated my own A arms and in the process of my swing arm ( just awaiting on rear suspenion unit 750lb ).. I live in a small "town" more like a large village , with no real retail shops .. I have to rely on online shopping as there is no cycle shops . let alone recumbent/tadpole outlets near me . Being a "retired" welder/ fabricator , I have the knowledge to design and build most things in metal . I am using 60mm tubing for the frame , 40 x 20mm box for swing arm .. . Both the front steering uprights are built . The wheel spindles have been lathed to fit . There are no cycle clubs near me , to be honest its a pretty backward kind of place here where I live ( I am in UK ) . At the moment I am purchasing parts from China as they are cheaper ( o.k i have to wait a while to arrive) Most parts sold come from China here in UK , so cutting out rip off prices . I am making the parts that I can ,. just parts like suspension /dampers/ brake calipers etc , that are shop bought .. I have all my brake calipers and discs/rotors 160 fronts and 180 rear .. I would never purchase a 2nd user trike as not known history etc . at least with a home build , I know it will be more than capable of doing what it is engineered to do . I am just stumped on the poundage of the front shocks that I require , i don't wish to return items that are not fit for the job in hand. I would never think of selling it either .. I am 62 years old , ok have disabilities , so a project keeps me happy and physically and mentally sane .. lol . Hopefully i have time to finish and ride it.
30 psi are what the tyres recommend .. I am using 4.00" rims all round 20" fronts and a 26" rear . 4.25" overall tyre width . I have drawing for tilting and can be "locked" so that wheels will not lean. I believe i have posted this pic before . just to show the wheels i have built and will be using
30 psi are what the tyres recommend .. I am using 4.00" rims all round 20" fronts and a 26" rear . 4.25" overall tyre width . I have drawing for tilting and can be "locked" so that wheels will not lean. I believe i have posted this pic before . just to show the wheels i have built and will be using
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FishFright
More wheels than sense
I would have been tempted to run air shocks so you can vary the spring pressures over a large range.
Just as an aside I do wonder if an anti roll bar would be of any help ?
Just as an aside I do wonder if an anti roll bar would be of any help ?
I looked into the "air shocks" They are nitrogen filled .. does that mean you have to fill with nitrogen to adjust , or do they just require air to compress the Nitrogen ? .. I have compressors here . so no problems . If that is the case . I will be sorted and it will just be the length of the shocks that I can play around with to get the correct angle to work effiecently and weld mounts in place
FishFright
More wheels than sense
I meant the ones where the spring is replaced by an air chamber
for example https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/rockshox-deluxe-select-plus-rl-trunnion-mtb-shock/rp-prod208580
I ruled out those type as limited travel .. Unless I just use a single damper and not 2 has I had planned . I found this drawing of a single shock/damper . But it relies on being higher to make it work . The 2/3rd pics are the sort of shocks that I prefer as gives more articulation
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Not really into ARB as less articulation . I removed both off my landrover and gives a smoother ride ( I did give it a 5" suspension lift ) . I do have spinal issues , hence why I don't want or need a "hard" set up . Medium to soft ride is what I am after . It will be used mostly on trails / bridleways / Beaches / grassed areas ( i.e going to shows ) I don't plan on running on public roads . I just wish to go where my 4x4 is not allowed or just too big for it
