Campagnolo Veloce front derailleur

al-fresco

Growing older but not up...
Location
Shropshire
After adjusting the cable in accordance with the manual my left-hand shifter takes the required 3 clicks to change from the small to the large chainring - so when I'm on the small chainwheel I can easily 'trim' the derailleur position to eliminate any chain rub - but once I'm on the large chainwheel it's only one click of the thumb switch to go back down again and there's no opportunity to trim the the derailleur position with either the lever or the thumb switch. So, with the chain on the large chainwheel only the midrange and smaller back cogs can be used and not, say, the 3rd and 4th largest rear cogs. The limiter screws seem to be about right.

Is there no trim on the large chainwheel of Campag Veloce or have I missed something?
 

derrick

The Glue that binds us together.
Have you got an inline barrel adjuster, Makes for better fine tuning.
 
OP
al-fresco

al-fresco

Growing older but not up...
Location
Shropshire
Have you got an inline barrel adjuster, Makes for better fine tuning.
Yep - got one on the downtube.

You have missed nothing. Campagnolo Quick Shift only has trim on the small ring. I'm pretty sure I can use most of my cassette on the big ring without any rub though.

This thread might help:
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/whats-happened-to-my-trimming-campagnolo.162401/#post-3221723
Thanks - I had looked at that thread before I posted. Wasn't sure that Xenon and Veloce used the same shifters. Seems strange that you can only trim on one chainwheel - I'd better look to my fine tuning.

Thanks for the replies!
 

goody

Veteran
Location
Carshalton
I've got Xenon shifters with Veloce front mech (10s) if I get any rubbing on the front mech its normally a sign I need to change front ring and select the sproket to suit rather than the front mech needing trimming.
 
Last edited:

slowmotion

Quite dreadful
Location
lost somewhere
I've got Veloce FD and shifters on my bike and there were no barrel adjusters at all. I installed a Jagwire in-line adjuster which helps set up the FD but it's still a terrible faff. When they're set up correctly, the Veloce gears are wonderful though.
 
So long as the frame is within spec (see the 2012 Tech manual at www.campagnolo.com for the fullest details) and the FD is correctly mounted, you don't need a trim on the FD as if it's correctly set up, regardless of (Campag) chainset from the same generation, and cassette sizes, the chain won't touch the FD when you are in the big ring, even if you are cross-chaining.

For FD set-up, a Campag clip-on should be OK if the frame is right, otherwise, if you are using a braze on FD and a clip, it possibly needs a Campag clip not a 3rd party one to be dead right, or jf you are using a braze-on attached to a fixture on the frame, the fixture needs to be in the right place - also covered in the Tech manual.

There is trim on the small ring, it works retrogressively, as Shimano etc - so you drop to the small ring and then if you get chain rub, trim The FD with the upshift lever.

If the FD position is out, either because the frame dosen't fit the base spec that Campag, Shimano et. al., use or because of a clip / set-up issue (too high, too low, mis-aligned), then you may get scrape.

If the chainset is using something other than 50-34, 52-36 or 53-39 rings, i.e.with some 3rd party chainrings - even on a Campag spider - you may get some scrape as Campag set part of their rings' spacing with the shaping of the ring itself - not always followed by 3rd parties.

If the chainset is not Campag you may get some scrape as the offset from the frame may be out of spec., or the ring spacing may not be the same, or both. Some generic "10s compatible" chainset rings are further apart than Campag spec. in order to be more-or-less right for all the 10s systems in the market (though in reality this affects 50-34 x 13-29 the most - other combos you can usually get it to work OK).

I'd avoid an inline adjuster on the RD - you don't need it, the adjuster on the RD will give you enough adjustment if you take care in the original set-up ... it just adds friction and so can compromise the shift. If you use one on the FD cable (and a lot of frames these days leave you no choice), try to position it on a part of the outer cable that is as straight as possible. We'd advise the Campag one because it is less prone to "self adjusting" when you turn the bars than most of the competition, and it adds less friction beause it uses only one ferrule, so only one extra o-ring in the system. All FDs now really need fine cable adjustment, it's not just a Campag issue - really it's a frame issue ...

HTH
Graeme
Velotech Cycling Ltd
 

derrick

The Glue that binds us together.
I am using Rotor Q rings, so that could explain the slight chain rub,:okay:
 

boydj

Guru
Location
Paisley
The veloce front mech is quite sensitive to both height and angle. You might find that a slight adjustment to the angle will help with the rub. It took me a while to get the optimum setting on my own veloce setup.
 

slowmotion

Quite dreadful
Location
lost somewhere
The veloce front mech is quite sensitive to both height and angle. You might find that a slight adjustment to the angle will help with the rub. It took me a while to get the optimum setting on my own veloce setup.
Mine's on a Cinelli Experience frame and it's a clamp-on. I can adjust the height and the parallelism with the chain rings but nothing else. The chain rings are Miche.

The Campag. technical documents leave a lot to be desired, BTW.
 

Tojo

Über Member
I use campagnolo, have always had a slight chain rub if i cross chain on the extremes.

I used campag for a good while, and still love it but cant afford the groupset I want yet, (record carbon mechanical) but saving , so I'm now using 6800 ultegra and its the same ( shimano have actually put a rubber pad on the inside of the inside of the front mech cadge to alleviate this), but I cannot explain to people when they ask me to set their gearing up, that if you try to use extremes, like you say they will get chain rub on the front mech, their statement is usually, well it said in the spec that it had 22 gears, why cant I use them all and is it rubbing....and if that's their answer I haven't got the time to explain that they could find the same ratio that they are looking for on another combination within the group.......:cursing:
 
OP
al-fresco

al-fresco

Growing older but not up...
Location
Shropshire
So long as the frame is within spec (see the 2012 Tech manual at www.campagnolo.com for the fullest details) and the FD is correctly mounted, you don't need a trim on the FD as if it's correctly set up, regardless of (Campag) chainset from the same generation, and cassette sizes, the chain won't touch the FD when you are in the big ring, even if you are cross-chaining.

For FD set-up, a Campag clip-on should be OK if the frame is right, otherwise, if you are using a braze on FD and a clip, it possibly needs a Campag clip not a 3rd party one to be dead right, or jf you are using a braze-on attached to a fixture on the frame, the fixture needs to be in the right place - also covered in the Tech manual.

There is trim on the small ring, it works retrogressively, as Shimano etc - so you drop to the small ring and then if you get chain rub, trim The FD with the upshift lever.

If the FD position is out, either because the frame dosen't fit the base spec that Campag, Shimano et. al., use or because of a clip / set-up issue (too high, too low, mis-aligned), then you may get scrape.

If the chainset is using something other than 50-34, 52-36 or 53-39 rings, i.e.with some 3rd party chainrings - even on a Campag spider - you may get some scrape as Campag set part of their rings' spacing with the shaping of the ring itself - not always followed by 3rd parties.

If the chainset is not Campag you may get some scrape as the offset from the frame may be out of spec., or the ring spacing may not be the same, or both. Some generic "10s compatible" chainset rings are further apart than Campag spec. in order to be more-or-less right for all the 10s systems in the market (though in reality this affects 50-34 x 13-29 the most - other combos you can usually get it to work OK).

I'd avoid an inline adjuster on the RD - you don't need it, the adjuster on the RD will give you enough adjustment if you take care in the original set-up ... it just adds friction and so can compromise the shift. If you use one on the FD cable (and a lot of frames these days leave you no choice), try to position it on a part of the outer cable that is as straight as possible. We'd advise the Campag one because it is less prone to "self adjusting" when you turn the bars than most of the competition, and it adds less friction beause it uses only one ferrule, so only one extra o-ring in the system. All FDs now really need fine cable adjustment, it's not just a Campag issue - really it's a frame issue ...

HTH
Graeme
Velotech Cycling Ltd
Thanks for the comprehensive reply - I can stop looking for something that the groupset isn't intended to do and tweak my set up accordingly. It's a Cinelli Experience frame that's intended to be used with Veloce so it shouldn't be too difficult.
 
OP
al-fresco

al-fresco

Growing older but not up...
Location
Shropshire
Update - yep, with a bit of adjustment got all of the rear cassette working off the large chainwheel with no chain rub on the front derailleur. No trimming necessary. Thanks everyone.
 
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