Although, to be fair, there's a great chunk of wheel on one side too, before you get to the frame.
Can anyone help with giving advice on how to adjust my rear derailleur?
- Thread starter SilentDeus
- Start date
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Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
FWIW @bonsaibilly I too thought he meant the inboard side (ie the hub flange side) when he referred to the 'frame' side: the centre plane of the frame. The other side would be the dropout side of the cassette, surely?
Colin_P
Guru
Come on chaps !
Look at your the cassettes on your bike, either side of the cassette you have either spokes or the frame.
If there is a next time I try and explain, I will endeavour to be clearer on this point.
bonsaibilly
Guest
Come on chaps !
Look at your the cassettes on your bike, either side of the cassette you have either spokes or the frame.
If there is a next time I try and explain, I will endeavour to be clearer on this point.
I don't know what your bike is like but mine definitely has frame on both sides of the cassette. Probably more in total mass on the large cog side
bb
Now many on here like to quote Sheldon, this I think is the first time I have ever done so, but check out this page.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html
You will find these wise words in bold print.
Rear Derailer Adjustment
Before You Try To Adjust A Rear Derailer, Make Sure It Isn't Bent!
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html
You will find these wise words in bold print.
Rear Derailer Adjustment
Before You Try To Adjust A Rear Derailer, Make Sure It Isn't Bent!
Why not start from the beginning and make sure evrything is aligned before making any adjustments, must be the engineer in me but it seems the sensible way. I am yet to check a rear hanger that does not need tweaking, if only slightly.
Dogtrousers
Kilometre nibbler
Am I right in thinking that to check the hanger alignment using one of those tools, you first have to remove the rear mech? Now,it may be that all that's needed is a quarter turn of a barrel adjuster. So I think I'd try to sort it with the barrel adjuster and keep the nuclear option of dismantling the drive train in reserve.
mickle
innit
- Location
- 53.933606, -1.076131
Shift the derailleur into the smallest cog and remove the cable by loosening the cable retaining nut. Stand back and/or get down so that you can check that (a) The derailleur cage plate is aligned with the bike. Use the sprockets or the wheel as a reference. If the derailleur hanger or derailleur body or the cage plate is bent then it'll never index properly. Establish which bit is bent and traighten or replace as required. (b) That the top jockey wheel is sitting directly under the smallest sprocket. This should be the case unless the derailleur has taken a hit or you've been fecking about with the limit adjust screw. Find the 'h' of the two limit adjust screws and turn it until the top jockey sits right under the small sprocket. Turn your attention to the shifter. Turn the cable adjuster all the way in and then back it out one full turn. Do the same with the cable adjuster on the mech itself.
Reconnect the cable whilst pulling the cable gently taught - and fully tighten the pinch bolt.
Change gear at the shifter from top gear into the next 'click' whilst turning the pedals (you'll want to nip out and buy a work stand at this stage). The derailleur should shift the chain onto the next sprocket. When it doesn't simply keep turning the pedals whilst slowly undoing one or other of the cable adjuster barrels until the chain clunks across.
If you're lucky the derailleur is now successfully indexed. Shift up and down across all of the gears. Be brutal with it. One click corresponding to one shift at the mech. Finely tune the shifts at the barrel adjuster until your upshifts match your downshifts.
Now upshift until the chin sits on the smallest sprocket and turn the pedals gently whilst, with your thumb on the body, push the mech as far as it'll go you're checking to ensure that the mech doesn't shift beyond the largest sprocket and into the spokes. Be firm. Push it hard. If it does drop over locate the 'L' limit screw and turn it in.
Run through the gears via the shifter again one last time and..
You're done.
If it's all straight it's literally a five minute job. Do it all in the right order and it all falls into place.
Reconnect the cable whilst pulling the cable gently taught - and fully tighten the pinch bolt.
Change gear at the shifter from top gear into the next 'click' whilst turning the pedals (you'll want to nip out and buy a work stand at this stage). The derailleur should shift the chain onto the next sprocket. When it doesn't simply keep turning the pedals whilst slowly undoing one or other of the cable adjuster barrels until the chain clunks across.
If you're lucky the derailleur is now successfully indexed. Shift up and down across all of the gears. Be brutal with it. One click corresponding to one shift at the mech. Finely tune the shifts at the barrel adjuster until your upshifts match your downshifts.
Now upshift until the chin sits on the smallest sprocket and turn the pedals gently whilst, with your thumb on the body, push the mech as far as it'll go you're checking to ensure that the mech doesn't shift beyond the largest sprocket and into the spokes. Be firm. Push it hard. If it does drop over locate the 'L' limit screw and turn it in.
Run through the gears via the shifter again one last time and..
You're done.
If it's all straight it's literally a five minute job. Do it all in the right order and it all falls into place.
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