Can't get my pedals off
- Thread starter jdrussell
- Start date
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First thing is- are you turning them the right way (left pedal has left hand thread),
Allen keys are often too short to get enough leverage, a pedal spanner may well get them off (there should be some flats between the pedal and crank)
Pedals do tend to get a bit stuck, try some penetrating oil and let it soak in.
Allen keys are often too short to get enough leverage, a pedal spanner may well get them off (there should be some flats between the pedal and crank)
Pedals do tend to get a bit stuck, try some penetrating oil and let it soak in.
jonny jeez
Legendary Member
- Location
- Chislehurst, Kent, UK
try this.
find a spot where the arm of the spanner is *almost* in line with the rear chain stays (the horizontal bits that go from the crank to the rear cassette.
take a grip around the chain stay *and* the spanner arm and close yore fists, using the chain stay as a non moving support... be sure not to pull the arm of the spanner against the chain-stay (in case you slip and cause a scratch)... this gripping motion tends to free up my pedals. Note you need to work out the reverse thread thing that's going on and repeat on the opposite chain stay but in the appropriate direction (* I always struggle with this as I so rarely remove my pedals these days.
I also use this trick with the pedal arm as support...try that if you don't need too much leverage.
find a spot where the arm of the spanner is *almost* in line with the rear chain stays (the horizontal bits that go from the crank to the rear cassette.
take a grip around the chain stay *and* the spanner arm and close yore fists, using the chain stay as a non moving support... be sure not to pull the arm of the spanner against the chain-stay (in case you slip and cause a scratch)... this gripping motion tends to free up my pedals. Note you need to work out the reverse thread thing that's going on and repeat on the opposite chain stay but in the appropriate direction (* I always struggle with this as I so rarely remove my pedals these days.
I also use this trick with the pedal arm as support...try that if you don't need too much leverage.
PpPete
Legendary Member
- Location
- Chandler's Ford
It's the left one that is the reverse thread. M540s have no flats for spanners AFAIK.
So - good quality long allen wrench, with an extension bar if necessary.
Penetrating fluid.
Gentle heat (hair dryer or similar) - the aluminium crank should expand more than the steel axle of the pedals.
or - trip to LBS
When they come off, grease them thoroughly before putting them back on.
So - good quality long allen wrench, with an extension bar if necessary.
Penetrating fluid.
Gentle heat (hair dryer or similar) - the aluminium crank should expand more than the steel axle of the pedals.
or - trip to LBS
When they come off, grease them thoroughly before putting them back on.
deptfordmarmoset
Full time tea drinker
- Location
- Armonmy Way
Mine do. I've never thought of using the allen key to get them on or off.
EDIT: Just awarded myself a slap on the side of the head - I was thinking of M520s.
already been to the LBS and he couldn't get them off !
Yes, allen key is the only way, we have used a proper torque allen lever to try and do it, no go.
Penetrating fluid ? Something like WD40 or Plus Gas ?
Thanks for the help so far
roadrash
cycle chatterer
- Location
- sitting on the edge of wigan pier
+1 for gentle heat from the hairdryer if all else fails
PpPete
Legendary Member
- Location
- Chandler's Ford
Plus Gas is supposed to be good, or Halfords do one called "Shock & Unlock".
WD 40 is pretty useless for this.
Not sure why LBS would want to use torque lever to undo something.... what's needed is just a massive amount of leverage.
I have several steel tubes in the garage, varying diameters and lengths up to about 10 ft (the latter usually only deployed for old fashioned freewheels).
Although to be fair I do have one allen wrench which now has 60 deg "twist" in the head.....good quality chrome-vanadium one at that!
If gentle heat doesnt do it....remove all traces of penetrating fluid, get some heavy leather gloves on and play a plumber's blowtorch on the end of the crank, then try again. The problem is that the aluminium crank, although it has higher co-efficient of thermal expansion, conducts heat away quicker than the steel pedal axle, so you could end frying the grease in the pedal bearings, which will then need servicing.
WD 40 is pretty useless for this.
Not sure why LBS would want to use torque lever to undo something.... what's needed is just a massive amount of leverage.
I have several steel tubes in the garage, varying diameters and lengths up to about 10 ft (the latter usually only deployed for old fashioned freewheels).
Although to be fair I do have one allen wrench which now has 60 deg "twist" in the head.....good quality chrome-vanadium one at that!
If gentle heat doesnt do it....remove all traces of penetrating fluid, get some heavy leather gloves on and play a plumber's blowtorch on the end of the crank, then try again. The problem is that the aluminium crank, although it has higher co-efficient of thermal expansion, conducts heat away quicker than the steel pedal axle, so you could end frying the grease in the pedal bearings, which will then need servicing.
hennbell
Guru
- Location
- Lloydminster, Alberta , Canada
If gentle heat does not work it is time to stop being so gentle.
Due to the harsh temperature changes in the winter (ride bike outside at -24C then store bicycle inside at +20C) I had a similar pedal issues. I tried cheater bars, pedal wrenches, more cheater bars, soak in penetrating oil,removed crank arm from bike, used bigger cheater bar. Nothing moved it.
Then I decided the pedal was a right off, I put the pedal and crank arm in the upper rack of the BBQ, and warmed the pedal crank arm over a medium flame. The using some heat resistant gloves, a pedal wrench, and a vice the pedal popped right off.
Be careful, use only as a last resort, but this will work. (If I owned a proper heat gun, I would have used that before the BBQ)
Then I had a medium rare New York strip with mushrooms, potato, and a beer, the day ends well
Due to the harsh temperature changes in the winter (ride bike outside at -24C then store bicycle inside at +20C) I had a similar pedal issues. I tried cheater bars, pedal wrenches, more cheater bars, soak in penetrating oil,removed crank arm from bike, used bigger cheater bar. Nothing moved it.
Then I decided the pedal was a right off, I put the pedal and crank arm in the upper rack of the BBQ, and warmed the pedal crank arm over a medium flame. The using some heat resistant gloves, a pedal wrench, and a vice the pedal popped right off.
Be careful, use only as a last resort, but this will work. (If I owned a proper heat gun, I would have used that before the BBQ)
Then I had a medium rare New York strip with mushrooms, potato, and a beer, the day ends well
hennbell
Guru
- Location
- Lloydminster, Alberta , Canada
Always remember to use lots of grease the next time you install the pedal and it should not get stuck again.
Judderz
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Astley, Nr Manchester
Not all pedals have flat edges for a pedal spanner....Look Keo's being one of them. Allen key from the back of the pedal arm to remove/fit.
jonny jeez
Legendary Member
- Location
- Chislehurst, Kent, UK
then try a variation of my suggestion... but use a closing clamp or vice. place the allen key arm close to the pedal arm (and in line) and clamp the two together.
cloggsy
Boardmanist
- Location
- North Yorkshire
Impact wrench?
