Canyon Aeroad Advice / Opinion please…

[kingrollo]

I had to buy a new shifter for di2 - £200.

In use its fantastic - but that has made me reconsider for future bike purchases.

Edit:- I didn't crash it either the hydraulics started leaking and somewhere along the line it got cross threaded.

 

[bobbyh216]

I've had two Di2 Aeroad!

The first was an earlyish model that I used very occasionally for whacky-races crits, hilly TTs or general riding. That met its end (as did my racing 'career') on the pointy end of an Audi. Its replacement is still alive with most of the groupset rescued from my first but I managed to crack a chainstay and haven't got around having it fixed.

I'm a big fan of Di2 although the bike I use most ATM is an Endurance with the totally-wireless Red AXS, which I think is where Di2 should really be heading. I suspect electronic groupsets are now becoming so ubiquitous that the long terms service, support and availability of spares will improve, but it's never going to be the cheap option.

The frame I found great for maybe half a day's tooling around but the relatively aggregative geometry did start to hurt for longer rides. That probably says more about me/my age/my general lack of endurance than anything specifically wrong with the bike. I do find the Endurance easier to ride for the day, but I guess that's implied by the name.

I never liked the Aeroad seat clamp wedge even though I didn't have any specific problems. I always tightened it up with a torque wrench and applied plenty of carbon grippy stuff but it always felt like I was walking a tightrope between the post slipping and cracking the seat tube.

As a general observation, I think the quality of Canyon frames isn't as good as it used to be. The finish on my two Aeroads was very clean, but my newer Endurance just looks a little less tidy in terms of the evenness of the paint job. Nothing structural that I can see though.

That’s a brilliant reply thanks mate 👍 I think as you say, Canyons aren’t quite the bargain bike they once were. I’m quite keen on trying something more full on and aggressive as I’ve gradually made my current Endurace more aggressive but obviously there’s only so far you can go without a frame change! The di2 does excite me (doesn’t take much!) but obviously cost does scare me a bit! I’m really happy with shifting on my current R8000 but I appreciate wireless shifting is even slicker. I’m annoying on the cusp of a medium to large frame so quite a lot of seat post will be on show, which apparently may exacerbate the slipping / squeaking seatpost problem.

 

[bobbyh216]

I had to buy a new shifter for di2 - £200.

In use its fantastic - but that has made me reconsider for future bike purchases.

Edit:- I didn't crash it either the hydraulics started leaking and somewhere along the line it got cross threaded.

I guess general failure is another thing to consider too. Cheers for the information 👍

 

[Scottish Scrutineer]

I would normally say the newer bike, however, I believe that they have still not fully solved the seat post issue.

If you're referring to the Endurace seatpost issue, then I have experience of this with my wife's 7 year old Endurace, and it seems to be solved after much work.

Root cause was the seat post clamp which did not have a large enough slot gap, so it did not effectively clamp the post adequately. Unfortunately the slipping seat post resulted in damage to it which meant it wouldn't clamp up even after I had opened up the slot.

Solution was a new VLCS seat post (fortunately Canyon had a sale) and a new clamp. The clamp was a much better fit; tighter on the tube and a decent slot gap, so the post is clamped at the correct (4NM) torque.

 

[Milkfloat]

If you're referring to the Endurace seatpost issue, then I have experience of this with my wife's 7 year old Endurace, and it seems to be solved after much work.

Root cause was the seat post clamp which did not have a large enough slot gap, so it did not effectively clamp the post adequately. Unfortunately the slipping seat post resulted in damage to it which meant it wouldn't clamp up even after I had opened up the slot.

Solution was a new VLCS seat post (fortunately Canyon had a sale) and a new clamp. The clamp was a much better fit; tighter on the tube and a decent slot gap, so the post is clamped at the correct (4NM) torque.

No - I am talking about the aeroroad disaster, which even with the recall bodge has not been fully solved.

 

[bobbyh216]

No - I am talking about the aeroroad disaster, which even with the recall bodge has not been fully solved.

View attachment 663645

Thanks once again for all of the responses guys, all very helpful. Out of curiosity what was Canyon's solution to the seat post issue? I know they produced the rubber sleeve to sit in the Seat tube, but was that the only thing they did? Or did the factory recall involve replacing the seatpost for a slightly different shape/design? I'm trying to ascertain a little bit more information, as it does worry me!

Referring to seatpost issues on the endurace - funny enough, I had some issues with mine - the inner seatpost clamping thingy (I'm not sure what it's called) that sits midway down the seat tube, basically disintegrated and I was clamping the grub screw directly onto the seat post, as opposed to clamping the seat tube insert against the seat post - which obviously isn't ideal! Subsequently Canyon shipped me an entirely new plastic seat post clamping device that sits inside the top of the seat tube - I'm guessing this problem is more down to miles done and general wear and tear, as opposed to a design fail.

 

[Milkfloat]

Thanks once again for all of the responses guys, all very helpful. Out of curiosity what was Canyon's solution to the seat post issue? I know they produced the rubber sleeve to sit in the Seat tube, but was that the only thing they did? Or did the factory recall involve replacing the seatpost for a slightly different shape/design? I'm trying to ascertain a little bit more information, as it does worry me!

As I understand it, the 'fix' is the rubber sleeve to prevent dirt getting in and abrading the post. Plus an order to use grease not carbon paste, which for a lot of people has just caused the seatpost to slip. It seems most people are getting away with carbon paste at the actually clamping part (inside the frame) and grease where the rubbing occurs (at the top of the frame). A few people seem to have had their bike go back for a second time and inserts have been added to stop the slipping. As an Ultimate owner and overall fan, I would not go near a 2021/2022 Aeroad, especially as I am a taller/heavier rider which really seems to cause problems.

 

[bobbyh216]

As I understand it, the 'fix' is the rubber sleeve to prevent dirt getting in and abrading the post. Plus an order to use grease not carbon paste, which for a lot of people has just caused the seatpost to slip. It seems most people are getting away with carbon paste at the actually clamping part (inside the frame) and grease where the rubbing occurs (at the top of the frame). A few people seem to have had their bike go back for a second time and inserts have been added to stop the slipping. As an Ultimate owner and overall fan, I would not go near a 2021/2022 Aeroad, especially as I am a taller/heavier rider which really seems to cause problems.

Nice one thank you for the info - yeah that kind of confirms what I've already read about it… I'm 6'1" and around 82 kg - current bike is a medium, I have been advised that should be suitable again for an Aeroad - so similar to yourself, I'm a taller/heavier rider… so it's likely that my big fat arse may cause problems with the dodgy seat post -

Obviously anyone else with a different experience to this - I'd love to hear from you… slowly making my mind up! … And then changing it!!