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Drago

Drago

Legendary Member
@fossyant did the C70 with Buzzweld ACE. Very impressed. Coverage jsnsuperb, and my testing in the week showed only a very fine film is required so a little goes a very, very, long way. Perhaps 1/4 of a litre to donthe entire underside of the car, so I've enough to do the van in August, and for both vehicles for several more years. Very impressed.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
@fossyant did the C70 with Buzzweld ACE. Very impressed. Coverage jsnsuperb, and my testing in the week showed only a very fine film is required so a little goes a very, very, long way. Perhaps 1/4 of a litre to donthe entire underside of the car, so I've enough to do the van in August, and for both vehicles for several more years. Very impressed.

How's the drying time. Would you say 48 hours then to be sure.
 
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Drago

Drago

Legendary Member
48 hrs with a light coat.

Old exhaust off the C70, and not before time...

PXL_20260613_105144440.jpg

New Jetex pipe ready...
PXL_20260613_105203104.jpg

And fitted...
PXL_20260613_125707066.jpg

Wasn't a bad job. Old pipe didn't put up much of a fight and the new one was a perfect fit.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Front pads done on the van. With getting everything out and packing away, around two and a half hours. This included cleaning the calipers, painting them with aqua steel anti rust and spraying suspension components with buzzweld underbody protection (the lanolin based one).

Only tricky bit was removing a sprung retainer on the caliper, putting back was easy. Also scrubbed the inside of each alloy.

The white aqua steel on the components turns to grey black or clear once its dried.

20260613_095156.jpg


20260613_102353.jpg
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Possibly the easiest pad change I've ever done once I'd worked everything out. The slider bolts are an 11mm hex socket (that had been ordered previously), but they were protected in a thick rubber tube - I'd seen a video previously (hence knowing the hex socket size) where the mechanic had flipped some end caps off - I tried to pull the whole rubber tube, nope it's just a cap on the end that comes off (dust and dirt seal). The only faff was removing the sprung steel spacer that holds the calliper in place (the bendy bit of steel in the picture between the calliper and the hub).

Both slider pins have to come out as the piston side pad has prongs that slot into the piston to hold it in place. Other pads, I've only needed to take one slider out and flip the calliper up (lazy I know - ideally both as you can ensure they are clean). Once the calliper was 'free' just needed to use a screwdriver to lever the piston back slightly - very easy, no pressure needed. Once out, used a long bike strap to hold the heavy calliper. Got out the winding tool and wound the piston back (could have bodged it, but I've a tool these days).
Calliper cleaned up etc/faff with coating suspension. Popped piston side pad onto the calliper. Outer side just slotted into the calliper carrier at the disc - no squeezing it in, no fiddly stuff as often it's quite tight getting the pads in. Literally slotted the calliper back in. Can't be this easy I thought. Offered up both slider bolts and tightened up. Dust covers back on !

The brakes are big and heavy being a van, significantly bigger than MrsF's car. Original pads were on the van, and nothing was seized after 4 1/2 years and 43k miles. Long may this continue !! This van will see me out (I hope).
 
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