Carbon Frame - Looking after

[scraynes]

Afternoon all,

I've just ordered a Focus Cayo 105 Ltd and it's my first carbon frame.

Just wondering if there is anything that you do to look after it that is different to an alloy frame.

Like special precautions or things to avoid with it.

Best regards,

Spencer

 

[brockers]

don't leave it next to a radiator

(sorry, couldn't resist)

 

[Mad at urage]

Make sure that you never leave it out in the rain. It should probably be hung on your living-room wall (but not near a radiator). Don't get oil on it as that degrades the resin. Use only (alcohol-free) baby-wipes to clean it (some soaps will have a worse effect than oil on its integrity and alcohol will reduce it to a black mess on the floor). If you knock it against a wall, or worse with the edge of a spanner, get the frame x-rayed then replaced as it will be irreparably damaged. Never allow it to stand in direct sunlight as this breaks down the C to C atomic linkages and leaves you with powdered resin. Finally, be very careful of what glues you use to attach extras (like chainstay protectors as some of these have the same action on the composite as alcohol.




It should be noted that I have no experience whatsoever of carbon frames, apart from reading various rumours on t'internet.

 

[HLaB]

If you don't already have one scraynes, its worth investing in a Torque wrench.

 

[threebikesmcginty]

Simply snap the frame over your knee, place it in the bin and then buy a bicycle made out of metal.

Actually the Focus bikes are meant to be top-notch!

 

[Fiona N]

If you use a workstand, don't clamp either the frame or the seatpost.

And where pray do you clamp it then?

Paul Hewitt's advice for the carbon framed bike I bought for him was specifically to use the seat post, not the frame.

FWIW I've had carbon framed bikes for 20 years now and treat them pretty much like my steel or Al bikes. I don't tend to go sloshing powerful solvents around the place so what the frame's made of is neither here nor there. I've had (2) steel frames crack under the paint (corrosion from the inside in one case, faulty weld in another) and polished Al frames corroded by microbial activity (farm dirt left on a mtb) and by salt (Muck-off also needs to be used carefully on Al frames too as it's dilute NaOH or simialr which corrodes Al) so carbon seems a pretty good idea. I've yet to try Ti but there was a post on another thread saying the least bit of sweat on polished Ti etched the surface (personally I don't believe it TiO2 is about the best protective oxide layer on a common metal known to man).

 

[monnet]

And where pray do you clamp it then?

Paul Hewitt's advice for the carbon framed bike I bought for him was specifically to use the seat post, not the frame.

Absolutely. I've been told by every mechanic I've ever met (including Hewitt) that it's fine to clamp the seatpost.

I second the purchase of a torque wrench - very useful for all the bikes but especially so with carbon (remember to keep the threads on your bolts clean though as rust alters the torque).

That aside, treat it with the love and care the new 'best' bike always deserves and it'll be fine.

 

[smokeysmoo]

If you use a workstand, don't clamp either the frame or the seatpost.

'Seat post: Concept SL' Very much doubt this will be carbon, so it won't matter anyway, but +1 for not clamping the frame.

As for a torque wrench, not a good idea - it's a bloody essential one!!!!

 

[Herzog]

Carbon frames are a lot more durable than some people give them credit for. If you follow the advice above (torque wrench, not clamping frame, taping areas where the cables rub etc.), then you'll be fine.

I've also been told that when tightening bolts etc., you should tighten once up to the final tension (as opposed to incremental tensioning towards final tension). Not sure how true this is though...

 

[scraynes]

Thanks for all the replies.

Looks like it wasn't such a silly question to ask after all.

I've been hunting around for a torque wrench, seems that that's a good idea.

thanks again for all the comments. I got an email this morning saying that the bike is ready for collection, so Hopefully I should have it middle of next week - can't wait.

Best regards,

Spencer

 

[smokeysmoo]

This is the one I use, available from HERE and other places, should pick one up around the £50 mark.

Does anyone know how often you should have torque wrench calibrated, annually seems to be the rule of thumb, but I don't know if this is official? I appreciate it's probably more often if it's in daily use, but mines not

 

[e-rider]

A cheap torque wrench will do more damage than not using one!



Either buy a very high quality one, or just use common sense (if you have some)

 

[smokeysmoo]

A cheap torque wrench will do more damage than not using one!
Either buy a very high quality one, or just use common sense (if you have some)

I don't consider £50 cheap, and I've tested mine against Snap On torque wrenches used by the guys at work and the calibration is bang on.

I actually paid a touch more as I bought mine from my LBS, and he doesn't sell tat!

However, any torque is not going to help if it's not calibrated regularly, and that doesn't matter if costs £50, or £250!

 

[Andrew_P]

Guess this is the best thread.

I have a Roubaix Comp 2010 which is exposed carbon or rather unpainted and a google guess is that it is laquered?

It seems some of the weave has discoloured from again a Google guess caused by UV exposure.

Is there anything I can do to get it back to black? Is there anything I should have done to stop it happening?

Its only exposed to the elements when ridden.

Looking on some car forums it seems general advice would be to get it re-laqueured?

 

[Andrew_P]

Oh and how easy to remove the decals?