Chain length

[roadrash]

[QUOTE 5128746, member: 9609"]and would that give enough length if you accidentally went big big when riding ?

However you measure it the chain needs to be long enough to work in big to big (if not you can do some serious damage)




I have always done it that way and never had a problem, even though it is recommended to avoid big and big it has worked[/QUOTE]

 

[MossCommuter]

[QUOTE 5128790, member: 9609"]115 ? should it not be an even number ?

I always think of links as the two pieces (1 inch long) so you would may refer to my 54 as 108 ? (not sure who's right or wrong by the way)[/QUOTE]
Nor me

 

[mjr]

This disparity might come from different approaches to counting links. What is a link? Since the only way to reduce a chain is to remove a rivet, it might be best to consider a "link" as the unit which can be varied. (Leaving out the quick link, obviously.) I put a new chain on my old 10-speed yesterday. 52 links - on my suggested method of counting.

Good luck with that. No chain maker marks their boxes that way AFAIK.

 

[Sharky]

Even more confusing ----
KMC do a half-link chain with 104 links.

Explain that using english.

 

[EasyPeez]

[QUOTE 5128746, member: 9609"]it is still 8mm longer then when it started off at 54 links[/QUOTE]

Do chains actually stretch though? How can steel be stretched?

Although 'chain stretch' is a phrase used to describe wear I thought when a chain wears it's just the gaps between rollers becoming larger as they wear against sprockets, thereby increasing the pitch and giving the illusion of the chain becoming slacker/stretching. No?

 

[EasyPeez]

you need to measure the chainstays to use it.

Do you measure it from where it meets the seat tube to the very end, behind the drop out?

 

[rusty bearing]

A chain has a maximum length in that if you were to run it on small /small the chain should pull the rear mech enough that it doesn't rub on the cage. I just put it round those two cogs pull it just enough and count how many links to remove, might not be the 'right' method but guaranteed to work every time

 

[Asa Post]

Do you measure it from where it meets the seat tube to the very end, behind the drop out?

From the middle of the bottom bracket to the middle of the rear axle.

Or vice versa .

 

[Blue Hills]

As others have said, if just replacing an old one that was OK, measure against that.

If not, I have always used the Park Tools system and found it works fine.

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing#article-section-1

Ridgeback should have given that a look when they put together my Ridgeback Expedition.

A great bike but supplied with the chain too long - it touched itself at the mech in some gear combinations.

 

[Apollonius]

And when you are counting the links in your old chain, to make sure before you cut the new one, that you have the right length, do you count the silver "eight on its side" plates or the rollers?

I know what I find easier.

 

[Blue Hills]

I count the rollers/pins whatever they are called.

 

[the snail]

A chain has a maximum length in that if you were to run it on small /small the chain should pull the rear mech enough that it doesn't rub on the cage. I just put it round those two cogs pull it just enough and count how many links to remove, might not be the 'right' method but guaranteed to work every time

Yes, either big/big or small/small method will be fine, unless you are running rings/cassette outside the spec of the RD, in which case you may need to compromise, and setting up for big/big is the safer option.

 

[Ajax Bay]

it touched itself at the mech in some gear combinations

Which ones?

 

[Tim Hall]

Do chains actually stretch though? How can steel be stretched?

Although 'chain stretch' is a phrase used to describe wear I thought when a chain wears it's just the gaps between rollers becoming larger as they wear against sprockets, thereby increasing the pitch and giving the illusion of the chain becoming slacker/stretching. No?

Correct.

 

[Ajax Bay]

on small /small the chain should pull the rear mech enough that it doesn't rub on the cage. I just put it round those two cogs pull it just enough and count how many links to remove, might not be the 'right' method but guaranteed to work every time

Whilst it might have worked for you 'every time' this is not advice which I recommend others follow. It takes no account of how large the large sprocket and large(st) chain ring are so may result in either failure, difficulty or damage to change into the largest sprockets when (doing so by accident eg in the dark) in the large chain ring.
Large to large, not through rear derailleur and add one link (one inch), and if 'in between', go up.