Chain wear and tool.

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wisdom

Guru
Location
Blackpool
I have bought a silverline chainchecker(I know I know but it was in a shop I was in)!!!
Now its' telling me the chain is us.It is mickled every week and the bike is used every day to commute to work.
It's a kmc chain is 12 months about right for a chain or is the checker no good in reality.
 

Tim Hall

Guest
Location
Crawley
I have bought a silverline chainchecker(I know I know but it was in a shop I was in)!!!
Now its' telling me the chain is us.It is mickled every week and the bike is used every day to commute to work.
It's a kmc chain is 12 months about right for a chain or is the checker no good in reality.
Chain wear is more a mileage and dirt thing rather than time thing. How far is your commute? Are you riding on roads or through a mud bath?

Many simple chain checkers, including the one you have, over estimate wear. @Yellow Saddle noted is a post some time ago:
Park's chain tools are suspect. They have two glaring faults:

1) Tool measures over a very small section of chain and thus amplifies the measuring error.
2) The tool uses the rollers as a point of reference. The rollers' resting position changes with clean and dirty chains. Given the above error, this then exaggerates the chain's wear.

Further, they don't really state what the 1% is a percentage of.

Use a standard inch ruler (try and fine one that goes slightly over 12 inches, ironically like Park's spoke rule that measures an inch or so more than 12 inches. Now file a notch at the zero point (get your notch lined up better than in this photo where I need to do a bit more filing) like this:
View attachment 76829

And hold this point at a reference point (doesn't matter what point you use, as long as you use the same on the other side) on the slack run of your chain on the bike like here.

Now move your eye to the other side, keeping the reference point exactly in place. This is tricky because it doesn't hook or click in place. On a new chain, the 12 inch mark at the other end of the ruler will line up exactly with the chain. I don't have a photo for that but the next photo will explain what I mean.

On a worn chain that has started to elongate , the 12 link point is now growing past the 12 inch point like this:

View attachment 76830
Here you can see that the reference point is between 12 inches and 12" and 1/16th of an inch. We are just lucky that this little 1 /116th inch mark over 12 inches is as near as can be to 0.5% of 12 inches. In this photo the chain is thus on its way to replacement but not quite there. As soon as it gets to 12 and 1/16th , it has elongated by 0.5% and has to be replaced. Once it has elongated to 12 1/8th, it has elongated by 1% and has ruined the cassette. We know a new chain will not mesh with the cassette and the cassette has to be replaced.

The distance between 12 1/16th and 12 1/8th is no man's land and you may be lucky, but you HAVE to test the new chain thoroughly with the old cassette to see if it doesn't skate on the rider's favourite gears.

It is ironic that Park has such a crapy chain tool but their ruler is ideally suited for the job because it has a few lines after 12 inches. You may come across other inch rulers with the same feature. I also have a carpenter's square with the same feature.
 

I like Skol

A Minging Manc...
How long is a piece of string?
12 months is a meaningless measurement, you might have done 50 miles or 5000 miles in that time and it could have been uphill all the way. I see you are in Blackpool, if you ride anywhere near the front then I guess your drivetrains will have regularly been exposed to sand and salt which certainly won't help.
Have you any idea how far the bike has covered with this chain?
If it is any relevance, I usually get around 1500 miles from a chain before it reaches an indicated 1.0% wear. This is commuting in all weathers and while I am not massively fussy about chain fettling it rarely runs dry.

Edit: Just realised I had typed 1.5% wear (double the 0.75% mark) but actually mean 1%
 
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Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
15 miles a day 5 days per week equates to around 3750 miles so all considering and given it's all weather' I guess it wouldn' be a bad idea to change it.
And cassette swap on the cards too. No chance a new chain will run on the old cassette at this point.
The chainchecker tells the truth (in this instance). Your chain and cassette have worn happily together and continue to be 'in synch' and have benefitted from the OP's good cleaning and lubrication. As @I like Skol says, it's too late to just change the chain. In due course (between very soon and another 500 miles) the chain will start to slip probably in one or more of your middle sprockets when you are putting a bit of power down. My last (9 speed) chain and cassette gave me 5736km (about 3,500 miles).
If you just replace the chain it will be bad; worse than before you replaced it. I recommend that you swiftly buy a chain and a cassette and hold them ready to replace when the first sign of slip occurs. You will not be damaging anything by carrying on at present. Replacing a cassette and a chain could take as little as 10 minutes (assuming chain whip, lockring tool and a chain with a quick link (already cut to the correct length)), but sensibly a rider would take the opportunity to clean all elements of the drive train at that time - so the OP may prefer to do the change as planned maintenance, given the bike is used for commuting.
If the OP wants to reduce the cassette changing frequency in future, then expect the chainchecker to say the chain's elongated after about 1000 miles riding and change just the chain.
 
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